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I have done the searches and havent found exactly what i was looking for. I have a 89 F-150 4x4 5.0 manual tranny. When i bought it i noticed true dual exhaust and no cats on the exhaust but a tube for the thermactor is hanging down just left open. When running i have an exhaust leak that i have trced back to this tube. my question is when unhooking the thermactor and plugging the holes to the intake what do i need to uplug or leave plugged in. I know that there is a small valve on the thermactor tube and was also wondering if i just took it off and plugged that line and left the TAB and TAD hooked up then took the tube off the motor if the sylenoids would send a bad signal to the computer. I was thinking of doing this and leaving just the pump on because of the belt. Can this be done or am i missing somthing? I just want to get this thing wrapped up cause it is very annoying cause i cant just hook it back up to the cat that isnt there. Isnt buying used vehicles so much fun when you go to working on them LOL.
hey guys sorry for the long post lets see if i can make this simple. Can i unhook the thermactor tube from the heads and pump, plug the vaccumm line for the diverter valve and without having to mess with the sylenoids and without messing up the engine or taking off the pump or do i need to get some resistors or somthing for the sylenoids?
Thanks again
Bigern
You can take all the valves and plumbing off, and as long as the TAD and TAB solenoids are still electrically connected, it shouldn't set any codes in the computer. The computer just looks for the valves; it has no way of monitoring actual function, aside from monitoring the O2 sensor during KOER test on some computers.
Thanks
That is all i need to know. I have heard from some people around here where i live but i thought i would check with the people i have learned to trust. Thanks Again..
You can also remove the air pump and get a shorter belt- or muffle the out put of the air pump as you will be able to hear it and it will be annoying-especially a higher speeds-been there already. Unfotunately I have a '96 engine in my 90 and the tensioner doesn't work without the air pump there . I am going to try and put my 90 alt $ air pump /tensioner bracket on and delete the air pump or find some kind of pulley to replace it. You can also get a .5v resistor to eliminate the TAB and TAD. -Bob
Last edited by slickerthanyou; Jul 6, 2005 at 10:38 AM.
thanks slickerthanyou
Can i get that resistor at autozone or radio shack and then just plug one into each sylenoid? And i think that you can get a pulley with bracket to replace your pump? I may be wrond=g but i am almost sure i read a post about it.
Bigern
I just bypassed the pump on my 94(same brackets as a 96 I think). I'm still tearing out my thermactor system. You just need a 10k(10,000) ohm risistor and solder that across each set of wires. That just allows you to take the solenoids off and let the computer think they are still there. And yes, radio crack should have them. You'll also need to block off the vacuum lines for it as I think some of them will cause a small vacuum leak.
thanks slickerthanyou
Can i get that resistor at autozone or radio shack and then just plug one into each sylenoid? And i think that you can get a pulley with bracket to replace your pump? I may be wrond=g but i am almost sure i read a post about it.
Bigern
Yes (the shack has em) Plug/solder one in each selinoid harness. Then you won't get any CE light on. As per RC Dan- don't forget to remove the vac-lines and plug the vac supply up.
I sent a guy a Pm about a pulley he sold- looked homeade which will work for me if I can get specs- always looking to brush up on my welding skills.
I just bypassed the pump on my 94(same brackets as a 96 I think). .
Can you get a pic of your set-up and let me know what size belt you use? I tried to get the tensioner to work with out pump using a piece of string but no luck. My tensioner is down low not up by thermostat housing.-Bob
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