So, should I forget the performance chip altogether? I'm not looking to race this thing, just some extra pep. However, I don't want to risk doing any damage to the motor.

 

That's not so. Ford computers do not advance the timing enough to take advantage of premium fuel. The knock sensors, on vehicle equiped with them, can in the best of conditions, only take the timing up by about 4 degrees. The chips advance the timing by several degrees depending on throttle position, load and rpm and get more power while running premium (called the borderline knock table), plus raise the maximum degree advance table as well to allow timing to go as high as it can without knock.

Mileage is a wash because although you pick up 1-2 mpg, you must run premium or you'll get pinging. Its no different than turning up a distributer for more spark advance if you plan to run premium all the time. Additionally, Ford's purposeful torque reduction during shifts is removed, speed limiters removed, shift firmness changed and a whole host of other things.. The heads aren't an issue, we're only talking about a 10% HP gain over stock, nothing like putting a supercharger on.

2 position chip: stock plus the power setting, plus a 3rd setting is available for more $$.
1 position chip: must run premium fuel all the time.

The Ford computers have a small edge connector with clear coat on it. The chip (actually not a chip, but a computer module) plugs on this and the clear coat must come off first. Very easy to do, and the Ranger/Explorer has the easiest computer of all Fords to take out.

 

Thanks for clarifying, Ken. Since I only run high octane in my truck anyway, theres no reason I would NEED a 2 position chip is there? I really appreciate all of your input. Also, heres a stupid question...What is the advantage of a chip over a flash tuner or vise versa. Is one better than the other? I'm also trying to consider economics here as well. I don't mind spending a couple of hundred bucks, but $300+ for a tuner seems too rich for me. Thanks again!

 

Ford Aero's are already a marginal engine thermal cooling design, especially the 4L AWD Ext. auto transx w a/c on summer 90d F + days with a load.
10% more horespower and associated engine powertrain heating can push a marginally cooled system over the edge into premature engine bearing failure from failed oil, warped or cracked heads, cracked exhaust manifolds.
Ford purposefully programmed the PCM for torque reduction during shifting because the A4LD and 4R series tranx's are not built "Ford tough", the most expensive auto light vehicle tranny designed by Ford to have rebuilt.

Ranger/Explorer have a higher capacity cooling system with far better engine drivetrain air flow cooling.

 

Premium fuel burns cooler (less BTU's per gallon) -- the power increase comes from a longer power cycle since the spark timing is advanced, not from higher BTUs per gallon.

The transmission stuff is a tradeoff, longer clutch life but shorter band life. If someone doesn't want torque reduction removed, it doesn't have to be. If you do see higher temps (unlikely) Redline Water Wetter does wonders. It breaks down the surface tension of water and you don't get the hotter water thermal layer on metal surfaces in the cooling system. Been used in the racing industry for years --- I had success using it with an FE 390 V8 that I had running pretty radically. Used to overhead the carb and vapor lock it, until the water wetter was added (and then thermal wrap on the fuel line in the summer).

No flash tuners made for the Aerostar. And no, you don't need a switch chip. However, I've been stuck in some situations where premium wasn't available or was of marginal quality and you get engine ping. Never really happened here in Georgia but it did on the road in Missouri. Would you rather pull the chip out, or switch it off?

 

a 6000 bhp nitro fuel dragster must produce zero engine heat using that formula.
<!--StartFragment --><!--StartFragment -->Pump gas provides 18,000 btu per pound (42 MJ/kg), nitromethane produces 5,000 btu per pound (12 MJ/kg)


if you want a Lighting Killer Aero, drop in one of the new Duratec 3.5L engines made for the Jag (code name "Cyclone". 300 bhp +
and no "tuner" chip required. production will start shortly in the Cleveland Plant, famous for the 351 Cleveland V8, Ford's small block muscle car engine.

 

Ok, now I'm getting confused. I keep reading these threads that say that for the $$$, switching the chip out is the way to go. Most of the discussion is regarding Diablo Delta Chips and the SuperChip. Diablo provides versatilty, since its 2 position and the Superchip for value. Since I live in the Raleigh NC area, premium gas isn't a problem. And worse case scenario, I put a lesser grade in temporarily, get engine ping, then mix a higher octane gas in. So, whats the best avenue to persue? Keep in mind that you've always given me great advice in the past, so I put alot of stock into you opinion. No presure, though. So, should I save my $$$ on the chip and invest in the tuner or go ahead and plug in the chip, whichever one seems more economically feasible? Thanks, once again.

 

go with the "chip" that Ford doesn't kill your programming if a shop call required on a long trip. carry a bottle of octane booster for the few times you can not get 91 or 93 octane gas.
let us know how well it performs.

my 4L AWD Ext tops out at 110 mph and drives those 2L rice wine chain saws crazy from a light, now I need a radar stealth chip to disappear from Smokey and his cameras, haven't figured out how to outrun those 5L 'Stangs that WSP has hi pro'ed by Ford Performance Div. anyone shoehorned in a 351 Cleveland hi pro with 12:1 comp. on 120 octane NASCAR race fuel and nitros oxide injection into the plenum chambers.

the "tuners" make the 6.0L TPS Ford Diesels perform like an 8L Cat. 100 to 200 hp gains and same type gains in torque. maybe a double 8L Cat. turbos max'ed out 6.0L TPS mounted in a cargo area cutout of an Aero behind the driver driving a 6 speed manual into a 12" 5.33 rear end? Real Ford Tough.

 

monster garage anyone?

 

Ken-
I've done alot of reading up on this and am trying to find out one additional piece of information. I understand that its pretty easy to put in one of the performance chips in the '98 Ranger. From what I can determine, you just locate the ECU and plug it in...right? Well, my question is where the heck is the ECU? I've gone through my Haynes manual and the only thing I can find in there is the PCM...powertrain control module. So, any info you can share to shed light on this will be greatly appreciated.

 

Basically, yes, you just plug it into the PCM. However, there is a coating on the connector (grease or rubber) that needs to come off. Acetone on it will do the trick. Yes, the PCM is the same thing. The hardest thing is figuring out where and how you want to mount the switch.

Basically, its called diffferent things by different manufacturers at different times:
ECU, PCM, ECM

 

Ok, my experience with performance chips, is they quickly do a workover on your emission system. Catalyitic converters are no match, and unless you happen to enjoy replaceing expensive catalytic converters, I do not reccomend performance chips. Also note, that most of the "proven tests" performed with these chips were performed on GM made trucks, which to be quite honest, would benefit from anything you do to them. They come seriously de-tuned from the factory. Ford's tuning is much more precise. Yes you can get more power, but not without messing up either the fuel economy or the emissions.