Radiator Removal Problem
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Radiator Removal Problem
Hopefully I can get some quick, helpful answers on this because I only have today and maybe part of tomorrow to get this thing fixed. I went out this morning and got a new water pump and got started disassembling the front of my '91 3.0 Aerostar. Everything was going fine until I had to pull the lines for the OEM tranny cooler on the side of the radiator. They wouldn't budge no matter what I did. More than likely, they haven't been removed in at least a decade or more. Finally, on the top line, it moved... then the line snapped at the bolt. It didn't turn like it was supposed to and the aluminum sheared.
So I know I have to replace that line. I want to avoid having the same problem with the lower transmission line. Ideas? Even with the sheared piece of line, I can't get it to move at all inside the bolt body. I sprayed both liberally with Liquid Wrench and let it soak in but apparently it didn't help and I really don't want to have to replace BOTH lines if I can avoid it.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
So I know I have to replace that line. I want to avoid having the same problem with the lower transmission line. Ideas? Even with the sheared piece of line, I can't get it to move at all inside the bolt body. I sprayed both liberally with Liquid Wrench and let it soak in but apparently it didn't help and I really don't want to have to replace BOTH lines if I can avoid it.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Mitchell, SD
I would suggest just replacing with new lines, they should not be that much and it will be less headach. While you are at it, replace the radiator, at that age who knows what kind of condition the inside is in and if you re-install it, will there be any leaks?
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Joined: Sep 2004
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I did the same thing to my upper trans hose because I didn't know I was supposed to loosen the outer nut before turning the big one. I torqued the trans line into a pretzel. Not only did I destroy my trans line but I had to destroy the upper one that goes all the way back to the tranny. There is a relatively easy fix though.
Go to Napa and get a steel brake line of the same diameter with a flared end that goes into the radiator. Take the fittings that go into the radiator with you to Napa. Have them bend the brake line for you after you put the fittings on the new line. Otherwise, you will not be able to get the fittings on the newly bent line. Buy a small tube cutter and a compression fitting. Take your newly acquired items and measure where you will cut the remaining trans line on the vehicle. Then cut your new line to size and use the compression fitting to connect the new line with the existing line. Do not over-tighten. You can always tighten more if there is a leak. Connect the flared end into the radiator. Again, do not over-tighten.
Go to Napa and get a steel brake line of the same diameter with a flared end that goes into the radiator. Take the fittings that go into the radiator with you to Napa. Have them bend the brake line for you after you put the fittings on the new line. Otherwise, you will not be able to get the fittings on the newly bent line. Buy a small tube cutter and a compression fitting. Take your newly acquired items and measure where you will cut the remaining trans line on the vehicle. Then cut your new line to size and use the compression fitting to connect the new line with the existing line. Do not over-tighten. You can always tighten more if there is a leak. Connect the flared end into the radiator. Again, do not over-tighten.
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Originally Posted by Cephus
Hopefully I can get some quick, helpful answers on this because I only have today and maybe part of tomorrow to get this thing fixed. I went out this morning and got a new water pump and got started disassembling the front of my '91 3.0 Aerostar. Everything was going fine until I had to pull the lines for the OEM tranny cooler on the side of the radiator. They wouldn't budge no matter what I did. More than likely, they haven't been removed in at least a decade or more. Finally, on the top line, it moved... then the line snapped at the bolt. It didn't turn like it was supposed to and the aluminum sheared.
Jan Richter
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Originally Posted by JanRichter
Cephus, I am assuming (perhaps incorrectly) that you were only going to replace the water pump. If that is the case radiator removal in unnecessary. Only the fan shroud and fan need to be removed. On a 3.0 the water pump can be removed with the fan clutch still attached, although I would try to remove the clutch first.
One more problem down, I can only think of one more to go. Thanks for everyone's suggestions.
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Originally Posted by Mikeman
Rather than replace the whole line(s), you could just trim the line back to a convenient location and install a compression fitting union and splice in a short section.
