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Back in the dark ages all the FEs came with either a 160 or 180 thermostat. The the word "emmissions was invented and they powers that be required certain things. So to the public loss the engineers found the higher temps were good for emmissions, so 190, 200, 210, etc thermostats were invented. I prefer 180's at the highest and if I have a very big radiator I will run a 160. Todays gas doesn't help matters either.
I've tried a lot of combinations,and maybe i'm over annul on how my 390 runs,but i have found that whatever combination of heads,cam,exhaust,intake etc. etc.effects how it runs...mine really likes a 190 stat'...But if I was starting from scratch,I'd go the coolest,let my engine tell me what it likes and go from there.
How kind of temp range do you run when you are stopped or driving slow Purely Ford?
Mine runs in the middle to slightly on the higher side of the gauge on hot days if traffic isn't moving too well. I do have a fairly new radiator which helps. Now if I run it kind of hard in traffic (jackrabbit starts and such) it can get on the hot side rather quickly. Although my engine runs a bit on the high side of the temperature gauge, it has never overheated.
I know that part of the reason my engine runs warmer than some is because it has been bored .030 over. That allows more cumbustion heat to enter the cooling system instead of going out the exhaust system. Since I know this I drive my truck accordingly in traffic. Well, I do drive pretty slow until I need to assert some FE muscle to get in the lane I need.
I almost forgot, my engine runs to about one quarter the normal range at highway speeds of 65-75 MPH.
Last edited by Purely Ford; Jul 6, 2005 at 10:29 AM.
Never had a problem with a 180 thermostat. Went to a 160 only to try to relieve an overheating condition on a tired 360, but I eventually changed out the radiator and went back to the 180.
My 11:1 390 ran quite well with a 3-core radiator (re-cored), stock water pump and 180 thermostat. Never really got hot, even in the summer at 90+ degrees...
This topic has been hotly debated in a couple of other forums I visit from time to time. Apparently there was some research done by somebody somewhere that showed that running too cool led to premature engine wear. It makes sense that the oil lubes better at higher temperatures. The optimum (as I recall) was around 190 for the coolant temperature. I have run a 160 thermostat and a 180 (current) and my engine seems to find 185 as its normal run temperature regardless. I monitor both oil and coolant temperatures and the oil is usually about 5-10 degrees hotter than the coolant. This is after running the oil through a B&M Hi-Tec cooler with a separate fan (check my gallery for pics). So, the question is, if you run a higher temp thermostat, how hot is your oil running and when does the oil begin to thermally degrade? As an aside, for you guys having cooling problems I found the oil cooler to really help. It's a relatively cheap addition, too.
Believe it or not, when you have a cylinder and a piston, when you heat them up, the cylinder-to-piston clearance gets bigger. If you have too cold a thermostat, the piston clearance is not right and can wear out the cylinder. Assuming the piston and the cylinder expand at the same rate, which they do not (aluminum vs cast-iron). But still, there is a difference in piston clearance with varying temps.
You can machine a motor to run with a 160 thermostat - boats use 140 degree thermostats (salt water behaves strangely above 140). You can machine them to run 210 too, but that's a little high for my tastes.
I believe the typical "nominal" clearances for FE's were good for 180 (or whatever was stock). My machinist specifically asked what thermostat I was going to use in my 11:1 390 and told him 180 - he said "good" and tailored the specs to the thermostat (and my heavy foot).
Well i just use whatever the book calls for which is usually 2 types....one hotter and one cooler. I go for the cooler of the two usually unless its 50 degrees or lower outside. In the summer sometimes i have run no stat at all and never been happier, Only problem is the heater dont work too good. lol
Will i really like that ram air and the breather that you have on that thing
Want to build me one?
The ram air is off the shelf for $100. Ramairbox.com. The air cleaner top represents about 1000 hours (give or take a couple); I figure the next one will only take about half that long. So how much money you got?
Believe it or not, when you have a cylinder and a piston, when you heat them up, the cylinder-to-piston clearance gets bigger. If you have too cold a thermostat, the piston clearance is not right and can wear out the cylinder. Assuming the piston and the cylinder expand at the same rate, which they do not (aluminum vs cast-iron). But still, there is a difference in piston clearance with varying temps..
Maybe I'm not understanding something correctly. Aluminum has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than iron. Therefore, a hotter engine would result in a tighter piston, right?
I did find the thread that debated this topic at length. Turns out, it was in our own FE forum in a thread started by Scrouder. Search thermostat and find "Theory time kids, let's argue this one out..."
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