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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old Jul 6, 2005 | 01:36 PM
  #16  
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If it is pumping that much water pull the head. I would bet the gasket is blown, I don't think a crack would let that much water through. You don't have anything to loose.
  1. If the gasket is bad you save a lot of money for the Ford. I am cheap a $20.00 gasket is better than a $1600 long block.
  2. If the head is cracked replace it is already off. You don't need the short block.
  3. If the block is bad you already have parts out of the way. That far in I would go for the long block and be done with it. I think you need your intake anyway for a long block if I remember correctly.
Originally Posted by bobbytnm
Gentlemen,

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Ross, yea the GM engines had major intake issues throughout the late 80's and early 90's. Does anyone remember the cooling system tablets?

4tl8ford, A little bit of chill is good, the big freeze is very, very bad. (she's a good woman)

I got home last night and fired the Suburban up and filled the radiator to do some diagnosing. Once the engine is running you can see water dripping out of the exhaust connection at the left side exhaust manifold. I shut off the engine and put my pressure tester on the radiator. Wow, major leak! I started pulling spark plugs. I pulled #3 and got a water fall coming out fo the cylinder....not good. The poor old engine is pumping all of its coolant out of #3 cylinder. I took the pressure tester off and stuffed the hose in the radiator.........constant flow out of the #3 spark plug hole.......ooops.
I'm guessing cracked head or head gasket.
The interesting thing here is that there is no signs of water in the oil. There is not the tell tale baby ***** spooge on the oil fill cap or dipstick. I even used the old standby and tasted the oil to see if it had the sweet taste of antifreeze (blech). I would think that if it were running that much coolant through a cylinder it would show up in the oil (well, at least the rings are good)

I have two options;
quick and simple---spring for the long block and have a nice and painless install with factory fresh parts. Compared to the price of a new vehicle $1600 isn't bad
more involved---my buddy at the machine shop is wiling to give me a short block and build me a set of heads. The block is one he built and put 20,000 miles on before pulling it to go with a big block. I could probably stuff it in and only be out maybe $500.

decisions, decisions
 
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Old Jul 6, 2005 | 02:10 PM
  #17  
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I put my money on the head gasket. The person that bought my Mustang let his 14 yr old kid drive it (smart ? it is supercharged with 426 rwhp)

The following day I got a call that the exhaust was blowing out white smoke after I asked him which gear the kid missed and a long period of silence we came to an agreement on the repair. When I pulled the left head off #7 cyl was full of antifreeze and #8 cyl was half full but no antifreeze was in the oil.

I think Christopher2 has the right idea.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2005 | 02:54 PM
  #18  
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Thanks, I'll tear it open in the next few days and see what it looks like and then make some decision. I like to keep this truck running smooth without having to worry about it leaving the ol' lady on the side of the road. My thoughts for the long block were that all I had to do was bolt on my intake, water pump, and accesories and stuff it in---quick, easy, no muss, no fuss. But my cheap side is taking over. (of course the dark side whispers in my ear also----since its apart I could boost the compression, maybe add a cam........)

This engine has 150,000 on it already so if I'm going as far as pulling the heads it would be prudent to go all the way.

Once I pull the intake and head I'll know more.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2005 | 03:05 PM
  #19  
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150K is way past prime for most American iron of that era, how to go for me would depend on how long I was planning on keeping it. 3 more years, put in the longblock, any less fix it as cheap as possible and start looking for a replacement.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2005 | 04:01 PM
  #20  
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AX, I hear ya.
I just had the trans rebuilt and the rest of the truck is in good shape and spending another 2K is alot cheaper than spending 30K for a new truck. I haven't had a payment book for a vehicle in 10 years or so and I don't really want to start now.

I'm thinking I'll fix it
 
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Old Jul 6, 2005 | 04:34 PM
  #21  
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Then I'd do the long block. If you get even another 3 years out of it = 530.00 per year, that's one car payment a year for a brand new engine!!!
 
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Old Jul 6, 2005 | 07:08 PM
  #22  
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LT-1's are good for way more than 150k, if properly treated. It sounds more and more like a head problem. Why not put a set of aluminum heads from a Z28 on it, along with the port EFI?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2005 | 11:07 PM
  #23  
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muahahahahaha chevy motors lasting longer than 150K......HAAHAHAHahahahahaha okaaaayyyy I have yet to see one last even that long...let along longer. Now, I have had two BMWs that had 250K + on them. My ford inline 6's both got in excess of 175K on them.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 08:59 AM
  #24  
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Ross, It is very tempting to "beef" it up a bit, it sure would help with pulling the trailer. I would sure like to pull the emblem off of the front and drive a new model under it.

53wa2fl, My last daily driver was an 87 GMC 1 ton 4 door with a TBI 454. It had well over 200,000 when I spun a main bearing (I was running it at a sustained 100mph--oops) They can go the distance if you take care of them. I don't want to start a whole Ford VS GM (or any other make) here, I've had very good luck with alot of different makes and it seems like every brand has good ones and bad ones. I like Fords, my first truck (and 2nd, 3rd, and 4th) was a Ford. I like GM, I worked as a GM mechanic for numerous years (my little Buick currently has 190,000 on it)...

...but I digress

I've decided to put off thinking about the Suburban until I can tear into it further, possibly this weekend

Bobby
 
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