hi
I'm still putting together my 460 for my 351m/460 swap. It really take a long time when you only make 7.00 per hour, But it is worth it. Anyway i'm planning on putting the following in my 460 and i was wondering about the H.P. I'm aming for 550.

- Edelbrock Performer Kit (includes carb, intake, cam, and lifters)
- Malory dual point mechanical adv. distributor w/ coil
- 9.0-1 or 9.6- compression pistons
- rering and bearing kit
- home polishing head job (Questional)
- no headers as of yet "$$$$$"

Other than that this motor is being taken out of a 78 mercury marquis with something over 127,000 miles on it. maybe there are other suggestions out there for power boosters. for cheap of course!
thanks for any help!:-X12

 

With that many miles already piled on that motor, you better go through it with new rings, bearings and bolts, after you check all clearances. I'd hate it for you to buy all those nice parts for a motor that's only gonna run 15,000 miles before it burns a ring, spins a bearing, or throws a rod! 550 HP will take some revving, so I'd use new rod bolts and and bearings to say the least. Now, junk that Mallory distributor and go get an MSD that won't burn $90 modules like you go through tires. I know, it's left over from another discussion, but why not?

Home porting jobs will most likely end up in disaster, most NAPA stores have machine shops with ASE certified technitians that can do this professionally, and usually very reasonably priced.

If you're gonna try to push that much power out of a questionable or tired motor, then it won't last long at all (been there, learned that)! TK

'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing

 

If you want that much power, Ya better put Nitrous on it. The 10.5 to 1 High-perf engine in 71 only had 365. Torque is what moves the truck. The more torque you make , the better it will pull. High horsepower and high rpm's go hand in hand.
In simple terms, Horsepower is how fast that the motor will rev.
Torque is how hard it pulls. Your truck is heavy, you need lots of torque. A more realistic goal would be 400 HP.
Also, ditch the dual point distributor. 1960's technology and too much hastle. If it is a Mallory dual point, convert it to a unilite electronic, and ad a ballast resister in the hot wire, and make sure that the module has a good ground. This is important for long module life. 99% of all Unilite modules that go bad, are caused by either a bad ground, or too much voltage.

 

As a general proposition---like the other very knowledgeable folks have said , drop your HP back and you will have an engine that will last along time---hopefully until you're up to 15 an hour----Also , take a look at the Crane cams website----you can pickup a good hydraulic cam and lifters for 77 from summit---of course you would also want the double valve springs , and the Fulcrum kit for your rocker arms , and a double roller timing chain , so it won't jump time-------------and the MSD 6A box with a Msd distributor is appropriate as well-------If we have spent TOO much of your money , and I think we have , maybe it would be best too wait alittle longer and purchase quality parts for your project!!!!!!!!!!!It is oh so very easy for those of us to just basically ignore the fact that lots of people can't afford to do everything at once----and you're in a hurry--right , who wouldn't be , we're all the same way---As what's his name says------Do it right , the first time , and you won't have to reDOOOO it over again!!!!!!!!!good luck , fd :-X11

 

hi
I did say that i was putting in a rering kit and bearings so that is taken care of. the clearances work out so i don't have grind the crank and i can just put standard bearings in it. you guys are right 550h.p. is a bit high, i'll think more of 400h.p. And i guess i never thought of buying new bolts, i was thinking they would come with the bearing and rering kit. it allready has a new timming chain so i don't need to worry about that. the reason i'm going with the mallory (Haven't yet) is because i don't need to worry any ignion box. it's just the coil, restior, and distributor, nothing else needed, and at a affordable price of $180. thanks for the information and thoughts, but don't get me wrong i want to do it right, and only the first time. i figure it will take me a couple of months to get the engine done. i will be netting 500.00+ every two weeks so it shouldn't take all that long after all. the other reason i'm getting th performer kit is becouse it is a kit, and every thing matches($560.00). i guess the reason i thought it would have 550h.p. is becouse in Jeggs it said with the performer RPM kit you would recieve 1.2 hp per cubic inch. so with the upgraded ign and compression i'd hoped to achieve the same results.
i'm sorry to say but my c***y had a mallory and it seemed like it bosted it 50hp! One more thing my old boss did a home polish job on his heads and it made a world of differance in it's torque and response. there was a reason for every thing i said but there are things i didn't think about and thank you for the help. PS if there are more tricks and tips for power or "torque" please help. once again thanks!

 

When Edelbrock says 1.2 HP/ci, they are talking about setups that use their aluminum heads too. Any aftermarket heads will vastly outperform any port job, so don't try to squeeze too much out of the heads. Overporting will cause seriously degraded low RPM torque, and minimal HP gains.

New bolts will hold their torque longer, and be more reliable when it comes to disasembly. Nothing is more miserable than drilling out an old bolt. TK

'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 16-Aug-02 AT 08:33 AM (EST)]A must on that list should be rods resized and Good ARP Rod bolts, Also I would probably go with a crane cam, weiand intake, use a durasprak ign. if you can't afford a msd box and dist. will be cheaper than the Mallory and save money for other stuff.

Also you will want a early timing chain that does not have the retard built-in, and of course a new oil pump. If you want all new bolts look on ebay for boltlocker, he sells a kit for 460 cheaper than summits. I would say just clean up the exhaust side of your heads, that is going to be were you will get the most gain, for least amount of effort and time.

Good luck.

Chris

79 F-150 Lariat: Long-bed, 2wd, 460 (intake, headers, cam, early heads), C-6 (shift kit)
79 Mustang: 460 swap under way, balanced rotating assembly, forged pistons, truck rods, c-8 heads ported, Lunati solid lifter cam, more stuff...
98 Chevy Silverado ext. cab 4x4 (work truck)
95 Lexus SC300 (wife's baby)

 

most of these guys are right, the things they point out are all on the right track. i ended up using a duraspark II ign that was recurved, a crane cam (don't have the specs handy), dove heads, stock 429 PI exhaust manifolds, edelbrock intake, ported and port matched heads and intake and exhaust, 850 holley, football bolt rods, forged pistons, etc.... had about $2200 in it and i did the assembly. dynoed 450 HP and 550lbs torque with a 9.8 compression ratio. changed the intake and exhaust and put open chamber heads on it to meet smog requirements and fit in my 77 1/2 F250 4 wheel drive (the engine used to be in my 67 shortbed) and the HP dropped to 360 and the torque to 375!!!!! hawkrod

 

"hi I did say that i was putting in a rering kit and bearings so that is taken care of"

This means you tore the engine down and took it to a machine shop and had them measure the crank journals and the cylinder bores right?

 

hi
Machines shop, sort of. I have a friend that when went to school for diesel mechanices and he is doing the measureing and checking clearances. He has some connections with shops that have tools in the area.

- I've never heard of haveing the rods resized, please explain, thank you.
- also never new that the retard was built in the timing chain.

Oil pump and gasget kit are a must any time you have to tear down your engine. I've seen too many fords with bad oil pumps and learned from them.

there sure was a lot of things i never thought about, thanks a million... litteraly!

 

hey man, think its hard doing this making $7 an hour, try it on $5.25. i haven't even bought the engine yet still dreaming about it.good luck man

 

 

Be Careful of "Buddy Deals" It would be best to get a machine shop t check out your engine. That way they do hold some liability if a clearence is out of spec and they say its ok. I would also get the crank magnafluxed and turned .010-.010 that way you know that there no hair line cracks any where and you have a new surface for the bearings. I would hate to sink a bunch of money into an engine to fire it up and have low oil pressure cuz i didn't turn the crank. And as said before a new oil pump is a must. I would recommend a quality pump not a 19 dollar Autozone special. the extra cost is definatly justified since you want good pressure and oil volume going through your engine, plus this isn't a part that can be effortlessly changed out in 10 minutes if it fails. Good luck

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 09-Jan-03 AT 08:18 PM (EST)]hi
got an update on that swap. still looking for motor mount shells but other than that, it's done. i ended up with the following parts.
-Edelbrock:
Performer series Manifold
750 CFM Manual Choke
Valve covers and air cleaner
Timming Chain
-MSD:
Probillet Distributor
6AL ign box
Blastor 3 coil
Variable Rev limiter

-Lunati Cam, Bracket Master II(1500- 5000)
-Hooker Super Competition Headers
-Speed Pro pistons HYP flat top
-Heads completly reconditioned and larger valves installed
-Sloted Rocker Arms
-Ford Racing oil pump and oil pan
-Comp Cams push rods
-Every thing else is brand new from NAPA
-Sizzeler from TCI (touqe converter)
Crank just needed to be polished, new bearings for every thing, bored .030 over stock, compression is somewhere about 9.6 to 10.3, probably about 10.1. every thing else is from NAPA
How much do you think that will add to my H.P. ?