I have been trying to get my Chrysler T-bar in my 48 F-3 aligned (just in the ballpark) using an aftermarket caster and camber guage. I have aligned a couple of MIIs in the past using this gauge but this is my first Chrysler. Although the stock caster for an 87 Chrysler is +2.5 degrees with limits of +1.25 to +4.25 and camber of +0.5 degrees, the No-Limit video recommends only +0.625 caster. I had no trouble getting the +0.5 degrees camber and +0.625 degrees caster on the right side, but the left side is another story. I managed the +0.5 camber, but I cannot get even close on the +0.625 caster regardless of how few or how many shims I use. The caster wants to be in the range of about +4 to +5 degrees. Is there something wrong with my suspension? Any suggestions? I really wanted to get the alignment close enough to be able to drive the truck on a limited basis until I could get it to an alignment shop.

Another question on this topic...the instructions with the alignment gauge say that the truck must be level front to rear when making the adjustments. Since I have no bed on my truck yet there is quite a bit of rake to the rear, so much, in fact, that I had to remove the rear tires and put the rear of the truck on jack stands to get it level with the front. It seems to me that the alignment should be set with the truck at the angle it will be when driving instead of level since once I set the set front end and then put the tires back on it will raise the rear and therefore decrease the caster angle from what it was when level. Any thoughts on this are appreciated.

Vern

 

I have two corrections to the above note. The stock caster limit is +3.75 degrees, not 4.25 and the recommended caster by No-Limit is +.075 degrees. not +.0625. Sorry for the typos. I am beginning to think my front suspension might have been tweeked in an accident or something before I got it. I have even tried shimming the plate under the upper control arm bar but I still can't reduce the caster angle enough.

Vern

 

I'm not an expert but isn't the castor angle directly related to how your vehicle sits - rake - so it needs to be adjusted based on how your truck rides down the road.
Jeff

 

Jeff,

That's the way I see it too...so it doesn't make sense that the directions say the truck should be perfectly level for the alignment. I tried setting the rear end height at the level I think it might be when I get a bed on it but still can't get the caster angle I want on the left side. The closest I can get is +2.5 degrees which would be within specifications for the suspension if it were still in the Chrysler. I may just have to just leave it there and move back to the right side and try to get +2.5 degrees there also. I was looking at my notes and I have made a total of 92 adjustments over the past three days trying to get this thing aligned. Maybe it's time to move on to something else...

Vern

 

Maybe perfectly level is referring to the surface the tires are sitting on?

 

Yes a level surface for doing the adjustments. I think something is tweaked since one side is off from the other. Why do the settings change from stock chrysler, do you mount the crossmember at a different angle? It's been a while since I've done one but when we clipped a frame we mounted it so the factory settings could still be used for the alignment. I would try +2.5 on both sides and see how it drives.
Jeff

 

Vern

Hopefully the following may offer some comfort.

1. As you know, the clip was used in a zillion applications. It is very versatile. Many different weights and wheelbases, and to a lesser degree different ride heights and rakes. My Volare book shows application settings as low as 1 1/2+

2. Too much positive caster gives more rode feel, (requires more steering wheel effort and less sensitive). That's a good thing cause Volares have too fast steering with a higher than stock pressure pump.

3. I have swapped alignment specs with others. Good results reported all the way up to 5+ in one instance. That particular one was a 50 F1

4. Why does No Limit recommend so little. I would hazard a guess it's because their buttometer likes the feel of that caster setting on most of the many Volares they have done. Two different people may prefer a far different setting and think it's perfect.

Why you would have such a big difference from side to side? I don't know? Five degrees is a mile. You would see that much damage to the K-frame easily IMO. It isn't likely that would go unnoticed during the install measurements. Can you set the truck back down on the tires? Lay your angle guage on the crossbar where you install the upper control arm alignment spacers. Also get the angle of the frame rails at mid truck. I'll do the same. Exact science? No. But we can get some idea what you got. I'm just curious. I'm assuming your T-bars are set evenly? And BTW, you can alter your T-bar adjustment just a bit and get a minor caster change. We're all winging that part right out of the gate.

And I won't swear to this last statement cause I'm not an alignment guru, but the caster setting should probably be measured at ride height (not at level frame). When a real Volare is aligned with correct tires, I believe step one is adjust the T-Bars to put the front ride height at the prescribed measurement. Most RWD have a bit of rake, and you can't easily adjust rear ride height anyway. When my truck was aligned, they evened up the ride height left to right, then set the camber and toe in. At this point they measured caster and it was a couple degrees positive with no shims what-so-ever. He said "try this" it's near stock Chrysler specs, and see if you like it. I don't know if this is proper procedure, but I love the way it tracks and handles.

If you can get the two sides pretty even, I think you'll be fine. Even all the way up to 5+ caster if necessary.

 

Vern

I measured my truck and this may be of some use. I have a pretty good rake on the truck, 1 1/2" from the front to rear of runningboard. I would have guessed 3 degrees or so of rake. It is only about 1 degree measured at the frame. It's really not all that significant. BTW, I have 2+ degrees at the upper control arm alignment shafts at ride height. That would effectively be 1+ if the frame were leveled. Obviously you can move the lower balljoint a bit by tweaking the T-bar. Anyway, measuring the cross-shaft angle seems to yield a very similar measurement to actual caster angle on a Volare. I'm curious what you got if you pull out all the shims and lay the angle guage on your cross-shafts. No matter where the T-bar is adjusted (within reason), it should be similar from side to side. Really only mentioning this because it is a simply measurement to make, and I don't know how easy it is to induce error with your alignment tool.

 

'fenders,

I'll take some measurements today and get back with you. Thanks.

Vern

 

I agree with Christopher and Fat fenders answers, if the crossmember was installed to factory angle in the frame, then alignment settings should be similar to factory specs, and they are refering to the surface the truck is sitting on for level, not the frame. I'd definitely want some caster in it, probably something in the 1.5-4* range for highway cruising.

 

I may be wrong but I did not think any shims would be used to adjust caster on the Volare. When I had my front end aligned on my 48 a couple of months ago the front end shop adjusted the caster by adjusting the angle of the top a arm support in relation to the frame. No shims were used anywhere in the alignment process. Putting shims under them will do nothing in adjusting the caster.

 

Good point JW. Shims couldn't change it much at all. And the measurement I'm suggesting would actually only verify the Volare installation, not true caster setting. Though it just happens that it does match on mine.

 

'fenders,

I don't have running boards yet but the degree of rake as taken on top of the frame rail just behind the cab is 4 degrees. Remember, I have no bed on it so that angle will decrease when a bed is added. I'm expecting a drop of about three inches in the rear when the bed weight is added. On the right front I have 2 degrees across the cross-shafts and 3 degrees on the left. Adding shims definitely changes the caster angle.

I also think you guys are right about level refering to the surface the vehicle is sitting on as it makes no sense to level the vehicle. The original directions that came with the tool are long gone and I'm working with handwritten instructions. I agree that if I can get the caster angle about the same on each side it won't matter too much whether it's .075 degrees or 2.075 degrees as long as it's positive caster. I assume if they were not the same on each side the truck would pull to one side...right?

Vern

 

Vern

I suspect you are going to end up in the 5 to 6 degree range after the rake is down. Probably not ideal, but I still think you will probably be OK. I'd be far more concerned if you were 2 or 3 degrees different from side to side.