want to put amsoil in the rear end and transfer case any suggestions or things that I need to be aware of and is it possible for me to do it myself or are there special tools needed? Thanks
PS....second day with the Kwik Mod cant keep my foot off the floor!

 

You can do it yourself. It's not "rocket science".

First, clean the differential off as well as you can with a wire brush (or pressure washer, or whatever). Put down a tarp.

Best way to drain it is to use a drain pan and take the twelve bolts out, then gently pry the cover loose. While the gear oil is draining, give the cover a good, spotless, clean-up and heavy paint job, (outside only). It keeps down the rusting. Black is my favorite color for this application.

Next, remove the fill plug with a 3/8 inch ratchet or breaker bar (and probably a "helper" bar of some sort). Clean all the sludge off the magnetic plug.

Take off the electrical connector that's on the sensor near the top of the housing. Get out a 3/8 inch wrench and take out the bolt that holds the Speed Sensor to the top of the differential and gently (it's plastic) pry it out of the diff housing. Wipe the sludge off of this, too, as it's also magnetic. Check to make sure the o-ring isn't damaged, and re-install the sensor, bolt, and connector. Don't over-torque. Remember, it's only plastic.

Pull off the vent hose and insure that the vent is, indeed, open and clean. Also blow through the hose to insure it has no restrictions. Sometimes you will encounter rust in the vent piece. If so, remove the vent and clean it all out. Re-install and put the hose back on. Put a tie-wrap around the hose, where it fits on, to insure a good connection.

Clean the surface of the housing where it mates to the cover. Use a solvent to be sure it's spotless. Same on the cover.

Use a good quality silicone gasket-maker ( I like the black stuff), and lay a nice bead all the way around both surfaces. Don't over-do this, however. If you're sure that any remaining gear oil hasn't gotten on the silicone, re-install the cover. You should see a small amount of silicone squeeze out from the joining. Replace the bolts and torque to 25-35 foot-pounds. Let the silicone set up for at least a couple of hours before re-filling the housing.

Be sure to already have on-hand about a gallon of Synthetic 75W-140 gear grease, and if you have a limited-slip, the Ford friction-modifier for this purpose. Be aware that Amsoil doesn't use this modifier, and by not using it you risk poor limited slip performance. You'll know it if it "chatters" around corners.

Re-install the plug when gear grease starts coming back out of the fill hole.

Pop

 

Pop's instructions are right on, but there's a couple things I do differently. When I install the cover with fresh silicone on it, it tighten the bolts just enough to get a little ooze between the cover & the housing. I let it sit a couple hours to get a good skin on the gasket goop, then I tighten the bolts. I also take the VSS out & use the top hole as the fill point. That way, when the oil starts to come out the side hole, I know it's full & not affected by the bottle I'm filling with. I put in a couple quarts of gear lube, add the entire bottle of friction modifier, then fill the rest of the way with the gear lube.

 

Big Tow,

What great ideas! I'm gonna' be changing my procedures, both in the silicone set-up, and using the VSS hole to fill with.

Great procedures! Thanks,

BTW, I forgot to mention in my post above that it would also be a good time to squirt a little bit of dialectric grease in the VSS connector to keep it waterproofed.

Pop