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Making an EViL bumper

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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 09:01 PM
  #1  
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bremen242
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From: GANS
Making an EViL bumper

Trying to design a heavy duty bumper that I can attach heavy duty shackles to so I can have a little protection and a recovery point.

Now, the only big problem is that I only have a 110V flux core welder, so I am going to use a 1/4" square tube in the middle, bevel it, and triple pass it to the bumper mounts.. the only real question is what thickness of material should I use for the bumper mounts?? i am going to get some massive shackles (like 15000-20000lbs, it is a 3/4 ton), and don't want to be flimsy. I was thinking 1" (like fishie used on his rear bumper) and bolt it to the front frame horns in multiple points. Then I am going to mitre the outside tube and triple pass them as well.

I am doing it this way so my recovery points are solid without welds holding them, and they will just be braced laterrally with the square tube. H

Here is a quick pic on my design..

 
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 11:01 PM
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If you really want an EVIL bumper try this design:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal.../62705.520.390

You've got a good plan there Bremen, that's a smart setup. However I REALLY recommend you don't do this with a 110v welder. Triple pass melts a lot of wire on top but won't give you penetration because you don't have the amps needed. This creates a pretty weld on top that doesn't have the holding power it's going to need. If you know someone with a heavy duty 220 welder why not spot this together at your place and then take it to his and do it up right?

When you build the bumper mounts remember that you don't want them to be stronger than the frame they're attached to because if you hit something solid the mounts will tweak your frame. The shackles are used for tension so it won't take an exceptionally heavy mount for them to work. Just be sure if the mounts are in compression (like slamming into a Chevy) they will bend before they bend the frame. If it was me building it I wouldn't make the mounts heavier than maybe 3/8".
 
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 11:16 PM
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Don't do it 110 just won't dig deep enough. It will fail, and that would suck. If you don't know anyone you can always pick up an old 220 stick for cheap, or rent one.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2005 | 12:42 AM
  #4  
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yeah you can pick up een new 220 stick for a fairly decent price as well, but if you can hit up a few auction sales for a 220 stick, or rent one as mentioned above. But yeah thats a good design you have, but when building it keep in mind what ivan stated as a tweaked frame in our trucks is a pita to deal with. I'm just using a really really heavy duty reciever hitch in the rear (torching the rear bummper off) and making a reciever in the front.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2005 | 06:47 PM
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Cool.. I believe you are right about the 110V weld- I am confident I could get it to stick good (the key is to bevel the 1/4 down to an 1/8 and lay in a hot root pass, then lay a pass up against the root pass and both pieces of material, a lot of work though), but my cousin has a 220V welder, so I'll tack it in and let him burn it good...

Now, about the thickness of the frame mounts...

I agree the thicker the metal, the better chance the bumper won't bend, but the frame will.

however, I also think that if you mount the bumper with 1/4 or 3/8s, if it bends, so will the frame, if it is tied in correctly.

If I use the 3/8 to mount to the frame, how should I attach the shackle mounts to the bumper so it can take a lot of pulling? welding a big heavy bracket 1/4 steel sounds like more disaster than bending the frame.

bump to the top, maybe Pro will have some drunken ideas ...

gonna look at warn's bumper site for some more ideas.. don't need beauty, I need it to be strong and somewhat ugly..
 
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Old Jun 30, 2005 | 09:15 PM
  #6  
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From: Atlanta GA
Any bumper worth mounting that is attached correctly is going to twist the frame in an accident. If it is weak enough to shear or bend away in an accident, it will be weak enough to come undone in a strong pull.

imo, Do not put your pulling points on the bumper!

Instead, mount at least 3/16 metal behind the frame flange by create a box/square of 3/16 and bolt your recovery points through the frame and through that. It will give you a metal thickness of 3/8. A 110V 135 amp welder is big enough to create that box with flux since you can weld from both sides.

Myself, I mount my front and rear bumpers over my frame and use it to help box the front end. My pull points are then installed through the frame/bumper. Then on the front face of the bumper I put a layer of wood to help soak up minor impacts and to push people.

If I get in a collision hard enough to damage the bumper, I want the frame to absorb the impact and for the other person to lose and not have the hood driven into the windshield. I do not want the damage to travel beyond the bumper or drive the steering column straight back.

40% of all accidents happen with an off set head on impact on the driver's side front. You should design for that.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 01:49 AM
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For tow points i've always liked reciever hitches as the load is spread out between the frame rails, but yeah rebocardo made some good points .
 
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 02:37 AM
  #8  
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I wish I had a digital cam
I'd post some pics of what a 50's Kaiser 6x6 bumper looks like on a F250.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 10:28 AM
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ivanribic
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I should come out and get a picture of that when I get back Bob. I'd really like to see it.
 
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