scary braking
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 706
Likes: 0
scary braking
I have a VERY serious wheel vibration while braking. Most noticeable at high speed braking, however it does it at lower speeds as well. It shakes and wobbles all the way through the sterring wheel. The strange thing is I've replaced almost every brake component on the thing in the past year. Any ideas as to what I should be looking for specifically? i.e. tie rods or something or maybe steering box ? I'm at a loss.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 14,413
Likes: 3
From: Sarnia, Ontario, CANADA!
Have you changed your rotors? That is usually what causes vibrations. If you did have the lug nuts been TORQUED to the proper spec and evenly? Also, if your back brakes are not adjusted properly then your front brakes are doing all the work and they will heat up and warp.
If that all checks out fine then get your front end inspected by a trustworthy mechanic.
Good luck!
-Matt
If that all checks out fine then get your front end inspected by a trustworthy mechanic.
Good luck!
-Matt
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
Likes: 3
Rotor warpage is felt mostly through the brake pedal. Steering wheel/column shimmy while braking is from worn outer tie rod ends. You can raise a wheel then put a hand at the 3:00 and 9:00 o'clock positions and try to move the wheel back and forth. There should be no evident side-to-side play. The good news is the tie rods ends are cheap and easy to install. You must have a front end alignment done afterwards. Try doing a search (tie rod) on this forum for additional tips and information.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 6
From: Northern California
Tie-rods, or wheel bearings, would be my first two thoughts. Get it checked VERY soon, as it is giving you a warning right now. If you have a bearing failure, you're stuck. Stopped. And as you are waiting for the flat bed tow truck to arrive, you'll wished you had taken care of this immediately. If the rotor is slightly warped, this can easily be checked and corrected. However, new front pads should be installed, as the warped rotor (even slightly) will cause the pads to become worn, in which you still might have a vibration when braking. Improper torquing of the lug nuts (too tight, not tight enough, or nor tightened in a star pattern) are also a very good possibilty, as stated prior. Good luck, and have it checked...
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 6
From: Northern California
PS Wheel bearing problems, usually start out with a noticeable "whining" sound that comes and goes in direct reference to the speed of your vehicle. Once a wheel bearing is ready to fail, it will have noticeable "slop" or "play" when checked, with the weight off of it. (Aerostar jacked up, assuming you are speaking about an Aerostar). By then the grease has been washed or burned out of the bearing. Extreme heat will ruin the wheel bearing sooner, much sooner, rather than later.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 706
Likes: 0
In February I replaced all the following at once... callipers, rotors, pads, bearings, and even the proporioning valve. All was well for a while, then the vibration came. I've been just dealing with if for some time now. Last summer I replaced the outter tie-rod ends. Like I said, I'm up in the air on this. Since the inception of the vibration, I've pulled the rotors and checked the bearings on two occassions. No problems found. I suppose I will have to bite the bullet and take it in to the "pro's", although that is what I believe caused the problem in the first place. When I had the back brakes done I had to take it back 3x's for them to adjust them properly (they kept sticking).
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 1
From: Orland USA
The Question here is: Was there a Vibration or was it Vibrating before you had all the front brake stuff replaced???
Jay
Jay
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
From: Westerville, OH
Heat from a failed wheel bearing can cause your rotors to warp. After driving a bit, carefully feel your front wheels to see if one is significantly hotter than the other. That can show you if one of both bearings are going out.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Fords to Drive Before You Die
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / Worst Features Of The 2025+ Ford Expedition
Brett Foote
10 Ways Ford is LOSING to the Competition
Joe Kucinski
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
New User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
had the same problem.....make sure you dont have directional rotors....had a "certified" shop do my brakes and they didnt know the difference......they replaced and/or checked every front end part for 5 weeks folowing that and never saw the problem...they even checked rotors on van for runout.....finally while talking with a retired mech..he asked to see bill..bingo....part numbers for each rotor was different....installed new cheap offshore ones and no more problem...
New User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
they were from a NAPA parts,,,,diff # per side and only difference is cooling vanes are curvered ......they worked ok when cold......annoying when slow stops in town,,,shook van hard at a panick stop in city and literally shook the van and dash so hard on the highway stops it knocked a radio **** off.....5 weeks of h#ll driving it till we found prob
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,019
Likes: 210
From: SoCal
If the directional rotors were installed backwards (right to left and left to right), they will not work as well as non-directonal rotors; they will heat up quickly, and possibly warp. Make sure you install them so that the curved fins point backward at the top of the rotor. They are not supposed to "scoop" air into the center of the rotor; they are supposed to throw air out from the center. Installing them as "scoops" will counteract the normal centrifugal force that is supposed to move the air through them.