Hot Brakes
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Hot Brakes
Just changed calipers and pads due to my brakes getting "extreemely" hot. I thought for sure the calipers were the problem.
My brakes, after about 5 miles will sizzle silicone lubricant spay after applied. Same as before I changed the pads and calipers. Both left and right are about the same, but left front is a little hotter.
I have asked a few people, and they seem to think that they are simply "not adjusted correctly".
Is there a specific adjustment procuedure after everything is installed correctly?
Keep in mind they were hot prior to the caliper and pad change as well. The brakes work absolutely fine, and do not seem to slow the truck down at all (coasting long distances once shifed into "N".) Rotors were changed about 10 months ago.
Help??? I am almost ready to take it in to Midas or some place like that...
My brakes, after about 5 miles will sizzle silicone lubricant spay after applied. Same as before I changed the pads and calipers. Both left and right are about the same, but left front is a little hotter.
I have asked a few people, and they seem to think that they are simply "not adjusted correctly".
Is there a specific adjustment procuedure after everything is installed correctly?
Keep in mind they were hot prior to the caliper and pad change as well. The brakes work absolutely fine, and do not seem to slow the truck down at all (coasting long distances once shifed into "N".) Rotors were changed about 10 months ago.
Help??? I am almost ready to take it in to Midas or some place like that...
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,673
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Area
Brakes get hot when applied (that's their function) and stay hot for a surprisingly long time. If you had to use them to stop, however gradually, you may be mislead. Also, you have to apply the brakes before shifting out of Park. There is nothing like the return springs on drum brakes, but if your caliper pins are lubricated and not corroded they will allow the pads off the rotors. Note that they "allow" return, not that they "make" them return. So there will be a very small amount of drag. That's why drum brakes are usually preferred on drag race and super economy cars. In other words, depending on your definition of "extreemely hot", it may be normal, particularly while the pads are new.
It is also a good sign that both sides are fairly equally hot, because a malfunction is less likely to occur in both.
I guess I would jack the truck up first thing in the morning, and see if I could feel any significant drag.
I'm not sure I understand why you're spraying lubricant around your brakes.
It is also a good sign that both sides are fairly equally hot, because a malfunction is less likely to occur in both.
I guess I would jack the truck up first thing in the morning, and see if I could feel any significant drag.
I'm not sure I understand why you're spraying lubricant around your brakes.
Last edited by MrBSS; Jun 29, 2005 at 10:46 AM.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
After noticing how hot they were getting, I decided a little silicone might help in the friction reduction, and therefore reduce the risk of some type of meltdown.
I cannot touch the rotor after about 10 miles, using absolute minimum brake compression.
I have researched some historic threads and have found a few pertaining to this "brake" friction problem. I cannot beleive that they have not engineered a spring type attatchment that would actually force the brake pads back away from the rotor... Wow. there's someone's million dollar ticket... R&D here we come. (Or if it is already an aftermarket gadget, I'd be willing to try it.)
'98 SCab 4x4,4.6L.
I cannot touch the rotor after about 10 miles, using absolute minimum brake compression.
I have researched some historic threads and have found a few pertaining to this "brake" friction problem. I cannot beleive that they have not engineered a spring type attatchment that would actually force the brake pads back away from the rotor... Wow. there's someone's million dollar ticket... R&D here we come. (Or if it is already an aftermarket gadget, I'd be willing to try it.)
'98 SCab 4x4,4.6L.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 442
Likes: 0
How hot is it acutally getting? Brakes heat up pretty fast, I doubt I could touch my rotors after driving 10 miles and leave my finger there. Like MrBSS said I wouldnt worry too much unless you feel some drag. I'd be careful of what you spray on them, if you are spraying on rotors, lubricants on the rotors could be a very bad thing for stopping. If your wheel is getting too hot to touch then I would worry about the brakes but not just the rotor. I had my front left brake lock up on me and was forced to drive a little less than a mile to find some safe place to pull off. I spit on the wheel and it was gone in a second...that would be considered too hot.
Oh yea, my rotor was puffing smoke...had to get new caliper but rotor was fine. My point is mine was a lot hotter than yours appears to be...and there was no "melt down". I dont think you need any lubricant.
Oh yea, my rotor was puffing smoke...had to get new caliper but rotor was fine. My point is mine was a lot hotter than yours appears to be...and there was no "melt down". I dont think you need any lubricant.
Last edited by fordman311; Jun 29, 2005 at 11:35 AM.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 740
Likes: 0
Melt down, ever watch race cars especially at night, that's hot and still no melt down. Acutaly looks like hot lava. I agree with everybody when you jack up the truck and you can rotate the tire with minumum force then the brakes are fine.
Lance
Lance
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,673
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Area
Well, a problem, if there is one, would more likely be on just one side, as per Fordman.
I think, at the risk of offending you, I should more strongly caution you against spraying silicone on your brakes. Until it wears off, it will obviously alter their performance. If any is absorbed, it could permanently and dangerously change the cohesion and frictional characteristics of the pad material. Modern materials are not very absorbant, but I don't know what solvents and penetrants might be in your silicone spray. In any event, it is not a good thing.
Your criticism of the world's automotive engineers is a little presumptuous, don't you think?
I think, at the risk of offending you, I should more strongly caution you against spraying silicone on your brakes. Until it wears off, it will obviously alter their performance. If any is absorbed, it could permanently and dangerously change the cohesion and frictional characteristics of the pad material. Modern materials are not very absorbant, but I don't know what solvents and penetrants might be in your silicone spray. In any event, it is not a good thing.
Your criticism of the world's automotive engineers is a little presumptuous, don't you think?
Last edited by MrBSS; Jun 29, 2005 at 02:19 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: Dubai, UAE
Mr BSS,
I do not think that you should consider Greg's comments on the automotive engineers as offensive. i thought it was funny. I'm sure you have encountered a situation when you have said "why did they do it like that??" Or "why didn't they do it like this???" I just think Greg was offering us our million dollar meal ticket. His idea could make someone a lot of money!! ;-)
I do not think that you should consider Greg's comments on the automotive engineers as offensive. i thought it was funny. I'm sure you have encountered a situation when you have said "why did they do it like that??" Or "why didn't they do it like this???" I just think Greg was offering us our million dollar meal ticket. His idea could make someone a lot of money!! ;-)
Trending Topics
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,673
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Area
I said presumptuous, not offensive. By that I meant he was assuming that he could see a problem where none existed, and solve it where others could not. But, lighten up; it was just a throw-away comment.
I'm really more concerned by his spraying silicone on his brakes. I guess it's really none of my business, but he initially asked for our help. I wish he had done that earlier. I just wish people would not plunge into areas that they don't know about without doing a little research, or considering the possible side effects. It's no put-down; nobody knows everything. Please don't be afraid to admit it.
I'm really more concerned by his spraying silicone on his brakes. I guess it's really none of my business, but he initially asked for our help. I wish he had done that earlier. I just wish people would not plunge into areas that they don't know about without doing a little research, or considering the possible side effects. It's no put-down; nobody knows everything. Please don't be afraid to admit it.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: Dubai, UAE
Thats the thing I love about this site, its just an honest site where anyone from any backgrouund can ask any question without being flamed to death. Mr. BSS you are right, you said presumptuous, I read offensive. Dont take my comments the wrong way, they were meant as light hearted humour. As for spraying silicone or any type of lubricant on brakes, I have to agree with the above, spray your lubricant on the caliper pins, not on the rotors or pads. If you want to see how hot brakes can get, watch the Martinsville NASCAR race, you will no doubt see HOT brakes. Its the hottest (no pun intended) topic of the day.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,673
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Area
I guess the real question we should answer is: How hot is too hot?
I'm going to say, "over 700 degrees (F)". That's real hot; hotter than your oven goes. That is the rotor temperature which would cause the traction control on my Buick to disengage.
I'm going to say, "over 700 degrees (F)". That's real hot; hotter than your oven goes. That is the rotor temperature which would cause the traction control on my Buick to disengage.
Last edited by MrBSS; Jul 8, 2005 at 04:01 PM.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
inefficiency
Granted, the brakes are hot enough to sizzle water or spit or whatever. To me, an admitted vehicle novice mechanic, but also a UH60 Blackhawk helicopter pilot, it seems very inefficient to have a constant amount of pressure applied through the brake pads and onto the rotors. Imagine if you were mountain biking up a hill, and your front brakes were rubbing. I can bet your ONLY thought and focus, as the sweat dripped from your forehead, would be to stop the resistance to forward progress, and preclude any and all friction. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
<FONT face="Times New Roman">As to the “infallibility” of the industries engineers – I must say “ha”.You must admit that you yourself have viewed things, whatever field – automotive, aviation, architecture, etc. and seen the possibility for improving efficiency or effectiveness.That is how c<?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com[img] /><st1:PersonName><font color=" /><st1:PersonName>ars</st1:PersonName> improve with the unveiling of every new year’s model.<FONT size=5> </FONT>No one has a head so big, that they can think of everything.<FONT size=5> </FONT>Dr’s used to not wash their hands prior to surgery, and Religious clergy used to burn people because they thought they were witches.<FONT size=5> </FONT>(They were, in their time, industry leaders.)<FONT size=5> <o:p></o:p></FONT></FONT>
<o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p>
<FONT face="Times New Roman">I just cannot believe that we (consumers) have allowed inefficiencies such as this one to continue.<FONT size=5> </FONT>It may be to some a matter of how hot, but why have heat created at all.<FONT size=5> </FONT>Especially at $2.43 per gallon here in south central <st1:State><?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" /><st1:place>Wisconsin</st1:place></st1:State>.<FONT size=5> <o:p></o:p></FONT></FONT>
<o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p>
<FONT face="Times New Roman">I do appreciate your comments, and “it is supposed to be hot” is a palatable answer, but it still tastes bad.<FONT size=5> </FONT>Again, a well engineered set of springs to preclude the pad-rotor contact, which could be added on aftermarket, and I would pay $23.99.<FONT size=5> </FONT>What would you pay???<o:p></o:p></FONT>
<o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p>
<FONT face="Times New Roman">Last but not least, after a recent “expensive” set of calipers and pads being changed – because my left front caliper was really hung up, I was required to drive for about 140 miles.<FONT size=5> </FONT>I was concerned that there may be another problem besides the old caliper, and therefore I checked the heat and smell a few times during the trip.<FONT size=5> </FONT>This is when I discovered what seemed to be a problem.<FONT size=5> </FONT>Due to the military nature of my mission, I was not able to stop and take maintenance type action.<FONT size=5> </FONT>Because of the heat, I incorrectly assessed that a “quick fix” would be to spray a little silicone on the rotor, to allow a little less friction, and therefore not heat up the rubber gaskets to the point of meltdown (ruin). (Revert back to the mountain bike scenario).<FONT size=5> </FONT>I changed them myself, which saved a lot of $, but they still cost me $104 with core exchange. <o:p></o:p></FONT>
<o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p>
<FONT face="Times New Roman">A little WD-40 or Silicone, doesn’t really decrease the stopping capabilities, I did try it prior to picking up to speed.<FONT size=5> </FONT>If the silicone does chemically impregnate the ceramic pads, which I have now been made aware of, and ruin their integrity, I will have to change them again for another $52.<FONT size=5> </FONT>They still seem to be working fine…<FONT size=5> </FONT>(but they are hot after a normal drive…)<o:p></o:p></FONT>
<o:p></o:p>
<FONT face="Times New Roman">As to the “infallibility” of the industries engineers – I must say “ha”.You must admit that you yourself have viewed things, whatever field – automotive, aviation, architecture, etc. and seen the possibility for improving efficiency or effectiveness.That is how c<?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com[img] /><st1:PersonName><font color=" /><st1:PersonName>ars</st1:PersonName> improve with the unveiling of every new year’s model.<FONT size=5> </FONT>No one has a head so big, that they can think of everything.<FONT size=5> </FONT>Dr’s used to not wash their hands prior to surgery, and Religious clergy used to burn people because they thought they were witches.<FONT size=5> </FONT>(They were, in their time, industry leaders.)<FONT size=5> <o:p></o:p></FONT></FONT>
<o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p>
<FONT face="Times New Roman">I just cannot believe that we (consumers) have allowed inefficiencies such as this one to continue.<FONT size=5> </FONT>It may be to some a matter of how hot, but why have heat created at all.<FONT size=5> </FONT>Especially at $2.43 per gallon here in south central <st1:State><?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" /><st1:place>Wisconsin</st1:place></st1:State>.<FONT size=5> <o:p></o:p></FONT></FONT>
<o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p>
<FONT face="Times New Roman">I do appreciate your comments, and “it is supposed to be hot” is a palatable answer, but it still tastes bad.<FONT size=5> </FONT>Again, a well engineered set of springs to preclude the pad-rotor contact, which could be added on aftermarket, and I would pay $23.99.<FONT size=5> </FONT>What would you pay???<o:p></o:p></FONT>
<o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p>
<FONT face="Times New Roman">Last but not least, after a recent “expensive” set of calipers and pads being changed – because my left front caliper was really hung up, I was required to drive for about 140 miles.<FONT size=5> </FONT>I was concerned that there may be another problem besides the old caliper, and therefore I checked the heat and smell a few times during the trip.<FONT size=5> </FONT>This is when I discovered what seemed to be a problem.<FONT size=5> </FONT>Due to the military nature of my mission, I was not able to stop and take maintenance type action.<FONT size=5> </FONT>Because of the heat, I incorrectly assessed that a “quick fix” would be to spray a little silicone on the rotor, to allow a little less friction, and therefore not heat up the rubber gaskets to the point of meltdown (ruin). (Revert back to the mountain bike scenario).<FONT size=5> </FONT>I changed them myself, which saved a lot of $, but they still cost me $104 with core exchange. <o:p></o:p></FONT>
<o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p>
<FONT face="Times New Roman">A little WD-40 or Silicone, doesn’t really decrease the stopping capabilities, I did try it prior to picking up to speed.<FONT size=5> </FONT>If the silicone does chemically impregnate the ceramic pads, which I have now been made aware of, and ruin their integrity, I will have to change them again for another $52.<FONT size=5> </FONT>They still seem to be working fine…<FONT size=5> </FONT>(but they are hot after a normal drive…)<o:p></o:p></FONT>
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
From: Cornelius, Oregon
Originally Posted by greg F150
<FONT face="Times New Roman">I do appreciate your comments, and “it is supposed to be hot” is a palatable answer, but it still tastes bad.</FONT>
Further, in a normal disk brake setup, when the pedal is not depressed, there should be a small amount of clearance between the pad and the rotor. Many things can cause the pads to drag on the rotor, including worn calipers, warped rotors, contaminated pads, sticking caliper slides, faulty master cylinder, etc, etc. But in a properly functioning system disk brake there IS a small gap between the pad and the rotor.
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Algona Iowa
How do check my rear calipers i think i have one hanging up because i can smell burning brakes when i stop. i got out on the drivers side rear is where i smell the brake smell. How do i tell if the pins are lubricated or if the caliper is worn, truck has 135,000 miles on it? Any info would be very helpful!!!!
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Algona Iowa
Rear Brakes
I pulled my rear tires off and removed the calipers and took off the rotor on the driver side the parking brake shoe had fallen off of the shoe and got tangled up in the back side of the rotor got the driver side taken care and went to the passenger side and the parking brake was so tight i couldn't budge the rotor after some prying and a few choice words i got it off and back the parking brake adjuster all the way off and now the rotor turns freely by hand and i lubed up the slide pins on the calipers and i'll test drive tomorrow to see if that cured my problems. This forum is AWESOME!!!!! 
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,155
Likes: 0
From: Southern Louisiana
A little WD-40 or Silicone, doesn’t really decrease the stopping capabilities,