Bummin' Hard -Cracked Block? (long)
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 788
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From: Hendersonville, TN
Bummin' Hard -Cracked Block? (long)
Well, you might have guessed from the post last night about a 300's weight, I finally got around to pulling my engine. A customer paid up their bill with me the other day, so I figured I finally had the budget to do the machine work and get at least half of my parts, so the last two nights I've been working on getting it out.
As of about 30 mins ago, it's sitting in the garage floor. I ended up yanking the head first and then lifting out the short block. I haven't even got it on the stand yet. I may not bother. The thing wouldn't pass emissions and numbers 1 & 2 were starting to oil foul (although compression was still decent). The last time I drove it a freeze plug sprung a leak. I topped up the water and tried to make it home. Didn't think it got TOO hot, but when I finally got the freeze plug in and started filling her up, I could hear water leaking out. Got under it and saw it was coming out the exhaust manifold! Cracked head I figured. (Been there, done that), so I picked one up at the Pull-a-Part.
Well, anyway, when I got the head off i spent about 15 minutes looking at the head gasket and the chambers, and saw no cracks. Started looking at the bores ( which looked good, no ridge, still had crosshatch) Number 3 has a faint line (not straight) about 2/3 of the way around it about 1/2 way down. I can't hang a fingernail on it, but I'm pretty sure it's cracked. I barely have the budget to build it, and can't afford a re-man short block(no more money gonna fall out the sky). Options basically down to this: 1.Get a full engine from the Pull-a-Part (approx. $175) just to have a good core. 2. Sleeve this block(unknown price as of now).
The first alternative is attractive in one sense, but I won't know what I've got till I tear it down. Their warranty is basically just replacement. If you get a bad one, they'll give you another. Time is precious(2 jobs) and I'd hate to spend a day pulling a crap engine and then have to pull another if it's dead. The second one is something that I have no experience with. I always thought bad of it in the past, but several people have told me of positive experiences with sleeves. Being a low rpm engine I'd consider it, but looking for some input here, where people know the most about the 300. Is it a good candidate? Pros and cons? All help appreciated.
As of about 30 mins ago, it's sitting in the garage floor. I ended up yanking the head first and then lifting out the short block. I haven't even got it on the stand yet. I may not bother. The thing wouldn't pass emissions and numbers 1 & 2 were starting to oil foul (although compression was still decent). The last time I drove it a freeze plug sprung a leak. I topped up the water and tried to make it home. Didn't think it got TOO hot, but when I finally got the freeze plug in and started filling her up, I could hear water leaking out. Got under it and saw it was coming out the exhaust manifold! Cracked head I figured. (Been there, done that), so I picked one up at the Pull-a-Part.
Well, anyway, when I got the head off i spent about 15 minutes looking at the head gasket and the chambers, and saw no cracks. Started looking at the bores ( which looked good, no ridge, still had crosshatch) Number 3 has a faint line (not straight) about 2/3 of the way around it about 1/2 way down. I can't hang a fingernail on it, but I'm pretty sure it's cracked. I barely have the budget to build it, and can't afford a re-man short block(no more money gonna fall out the sky). Options basically down to this: 1.Get a full engine from the Pull-a-Part (approx. $175) just to have a good core. 2. Sleeve this block(unknown price as of now).
The first alternative is attractive in one sense, but I won't know what I've got till I tear it down. Their warranty is basically just replacement. If you get a bad one, they'll give you another. Time is precious(2 jobs) and I'd hate to spend a day pulling a crap engine and then have to pull another if it's dead. The second one is something that I have no experience with. I always thought bad of it in the past, but several people have told me of positive experiences with sleeves. Being a low rpm engine I'd consider it, but looking for some input here, where people know the most about the 300. Is it a good candidate? Pros and cons? All help appreciated.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,556
Likes: 5
FWIW, all aluminum blocks use sleeves. Diesels use sleeves. My understanding, sleeved bores are stronger than machined cast, if done correctly. Last time I checked, I believe it was $80-100 to have that done, might save you $75 over getting a core. As to whether you should sleeve your block with the crack you've described, I would leave that to your machinist.
Good luck
Good luck
