Problem getting rotor's off hub shell
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Problem getting rotor's off hub shell
Hello,
I'm new to this community of Bronco's looking for some advice. I have recently purchased a 93 Bronco 351w motor. I am in the middle of doing the front pads,rotors,bearings and seals. I have the whole assembly off but i can't get the two main pieces apart (hub shell and rotor) do i need to take them to a shop and have them put it in a press to undo them and reset them with the new rotor? Also the outer left pad was down to nothing but all the rest of the pads were still in good shape what could cause this? Any info would be great.
Thanks
Ryan
I'm new to this community of Bronco's looking for some advice. I have recently purchased a 93 Bronco 351w motor. I am in the middle of doing the front pads,rotors,bearings and seals. I have the whole assembly off but i can't get the two main pieces apart (hub shell and rotor) do i need to take them to a shop and have them put it in a press to undo them and reset them with the new rotor? Also the outer left pad was down to nothing but all the rest of the pads were still in good shape what could cause this? Any info would be great.
Thanks
Ryan
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From: Hoboken, NJ...
Originally Posted by Ryan I
Hello,
I'm new to this community of Bronco's looking for some advice. I have recently purchased a 93 Bronco 351w motor. I am in the middle of doing the front pads,rotors,bearings and seals. I have the whole assembly off but i can't get the two main pieces apart (hub shell and rotor) do i need to take them to a shop and have them put it in a press to undo them and reset them with the new rotor? Also the outer left pad was down to nothing but all the rest of the pads were still in good shape what could cause this? Any info would be great.
Thanks
Ryan
I'm new to this community of Bronco's looking for some advice. I have recently purchased a 93 Bronco 351w motor. I am in the middle of doing the front pads,rotors,bearings and seals. I have the whole assembly off but i can't get the two main pieces apart (hub shell and rotor) do i need to take them to a shop and have them put it in a press to undo them and reset them with the new rotor? Also the outer left pad was down to nothing but all the rest of the pads were still in good shape what could cause this? Any info would be great.
Thanks
Ryan
What I do on mine (I also have a 93) is just replace them as a unit Raybestos sells the rotor/hub combo with everything ready to go.....ABS tone ring, bearing races.....like that. I just buy the seals and a set of Timken bearings and I am done.
Another thing you should think about while your in the front hubs, is a set of quality manual hub locks, like Warn Premiums, or Mile Marker. If your Bronco still has the auto locking hubs I would ***** can them ASAP......they are a very well known weak point and usually fail exactly when you need the 4X4 the most! To top it off.....even the good ones (I like the Warn premiums) can be found for under $100......
If you like I will look up the correct RayBestos part number. You need to take care here because the 93 is not the same as the 84>92, and they are not the same as the 94>96. The RayBestos units your looking for are labeled PG Plus, and work VERY well! BTW......I went with a set of Bendix semi-metallic pads, and so far so good.....they do not make nay PIA noises, and they wear very good also. Oh and try to stick with Timken bearings.....they are about the best you can get.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Houston
I just did mine. find a lug nut or two that you don't mind destroying. sprey the bolts with some wd 40 or something, let them sit for about 10-15 min. then put the lug on the bolt and pound the sh#@ out of them. To put the hub back together, I used a air wrench and just torked the lug nut down till it pulled the bolt back flush.
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Thanks, for the reply i just pounded on them at it worked i also went down and bought manual hubs for it. On the backside of the rotor there was a piece about 5-6" around with grooves all around do i need to put this back on or was it for the automatic hubs?
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From: Houston
I would say no, but not sure. Look in your hanes manual, it should show an exploded version of the manual hub. All I did was the manual hubs, by memory I:
1.put back barring in the hub.
2. tap on the grease seal
3. put the hub on the spindel
4. put the outer bearing in
5. put the lock nut on with the special tool
6. put in the biggest part that has the groves on it and the locking hub will bolt to it.
7. put the big spring that goes in the middle
8. put the little screw that holdes the spring in place
9. put the "c" wire spring that goes in the grove to hold it all in
10. bolt the locking hub on.
1.put back barring in the hub.
2. tap on the grease seal
3. put the hub on the spindel
4. put the outer bearing in
5. put the lock nut on with the special tool
6. put in the biggest part that has the groves on it and the locking hub will bolt to it.
7. put the big spring that goes in the middle
8. put the little screw that holdes the spring in place
9. put the "c" wire spring that goes in the grove to hold it all in
10. bolt the locking hub on.
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From: Wheatland, Mo
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Elder User
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From: Hoboken, NJ...
That is your ABS tone ring. You will need to put this back for your ABS to work. I have long since disabled my ABS, but the new hub/rotors I bought came with the rings already installed, so if I want ABS all I have to do is reconnect the leads to the front sensors.
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Help??
Got the new parts installed today I noticed that the pads were very tight upon installation, took it for a test drive she's a smoking from the tires. Put it in 4 wheel to see what happens and it drives fine straight but when i turn it's fighting me. Anyways the smoking is what i'm most concerened about, is this because of the new brakes or did i do something wrong? On jackstands there is a little resistance like the pads are rubbing what do i need to do? Also when i changed from auto to manual hubs. I need to get out and lock the hubs then i need to hit the 4X4 button in the cab to activate the 4X4 right? This is all new to me. I just wanna take the top off and cruise with the family and dog 
.
Also there is no pull left or right when brakes are stepped on, even stomped on
Thanks,
Ryan
.Also there is no pull left or right when brakes are stepped on, even stomped on
Thanks,
Ryan
Last edited by Ryan I; Jul 4, 2005 at 03:17 AM. Reason: more info
Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 224
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From: Pulaski, NY
Did you spray down the rotor and pads with brake cleaner? If you get any grease on the rotor or pads, you will get hot spots that will eventually cause grooving, plus I think that some pads have a coating on them that needs to come off when you install them. Be sure that everything is clean and wiped down - that might help.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,956
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From: Abilene, Texas
it normal. more times then not you will get some smoke and a burn smell form the brakes when new is installed. when I install new pads I always hold the bake slightly and maintain a speed of about 20 mph for about 5 to 10 sec. this will get rid of most of the smoke and the smell. either way it should go away in the next day or two. also you said something about one pad wearing faster than the rest? this is normaly from a bad caliper. I would replace both calipers on that axel and do a brake fulid flush. Good Luck
Elder User
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From: Hoboken, NJ...
Ryan......dont use the 4X4 on hard dry pavement.......it it totally bad for the drive line.....thats why your feeling the binding while in 4X4.
And......yes......you should lock your hubs first.....then press the 4hi button while in P or N (park, or neutral is not a must, but I do it just to be safe), and then drive off. When you dont need the 4X4 any more.....put the truck in P or N, and hit the button.....then get out and unlock the hubs.
And......yes......you should lock your hubs first.....then press the 4hi button while in P or N (park, or neutral is not a must, but I do it just to be safe), and then drive off. When you dont need the 4X4 any more.....put the truck in P or N, and hit the button.....then get out and unlock the hubs.