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removing emission lines.

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Old Jun 23, 2005 | 11:55 PM
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removing emission lines.

Okie-doke..I need straight-up, non-preachy answers to a coupla things. Here's what I want to do: My 75 F250 Supercab is running quite rough, and I know I'll eventually locate the offending issue..but! I wanna get rid of all the smog crapula on this truck. Despite a CA. truck, it no longer falls into the smogcheck range as a 75. I want to pull the air pump and brackets/belt,remove the air rails and plug the manifold, and get rid of any non-essential vacuum-controlled devices..this 75 is just crawling with hoses and weird contraptions I have no idea what they do. I do know I need to keep vacuum lines to brake booster, tranny modulator, distributor, and pcv, but is anything else essential? Is the gas canister *that* important? Is there a page .pdf or jpeg showing all of these lines, where they all go and what they all do? TIA.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 12:10 AM
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Keep the charcoal cannister for the fuel tank vent. That system works well. Other than that you listed the essentials just remember your AC/heater controls may need vacuum.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 12:29 AM
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Mmmk..thats progress-thanks Eric!. There's a contraption thats loose on the passenger side, it looks to be the size of a can o' Skoal, that has two vacs attached(I assume it's some sort of passthru)..it also appears to have two other holes/ports that aren't blocked off, and I cannot feel any vacuum on these holes/ports. One of the vacs that connects to this comes from a heat valve on the manifold, and the other goes to another connector of some sort attached to the firewall, with another 3 lines coming/going from there...are these likely heater/AC related? I do have AC, but the guy I bought the truck from said ever since the last engine R&R, it hasn't worked right since, fwiw. I may indeed remove all of the AC crapula as well...my main interest is a smooth-running, reliable truck.
 

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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 01:04 AM
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You also need to keep the vacuum reservoir if you have A/C
or even Cruise control.
Otherwise, the vacuum will dip too far whenthey are in use.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 02:05 AM
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That Skoal can is probably part of the EGR system. Probably the vacuum amplifier. You can keep the EGR or remove it. It is difficult to get it working if it is not. Parts are not available. If the EGR system is not functioning the distributor vacuum advance mechanism will need to be adjusted to get rid of part throttle ping.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Torque1st
Keep the charcoal cannister for the fuel tank vent. That system works well. Other than that you listed the essentials just remember your AC/heater controls may need vacuum.
(Newb alert! )
Is the canister actually under any vacuum, or is it just a passive setup from the fuel tank? Could it ever be a source of power loss?
 
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 02:28 AM
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it just pulls in the fuel vapor into the bowl it is not a source of power loss. it may be the old duraspark ignition. i got tired of dealing with that old setup and i spent the money and bought a older distributer that used points i installed it and used a points conversion kit to make it electronic and ran a high voltage coil. this system is ultra reliable and was well worth the 120.00 i got tired of replacing 29.00 ignition modules.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 08:49 AM
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I spoke with another FTE member last night and the 390 won't fit. Although the controls and wiring harnesses might work. Good luck with removing the polution controls. I'd be interested in knowing how it runs afterwards. Mine has tha AIR pump and other gadgets. Runs fairly well. Strong 302.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 10:01 AM
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Of course a 390 will fit in that truck.

The factory installed them.

You just need the right parts for the swap.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by G Guess
I spoke with another FTE member last night and the 390 won't fit. Although the controls and wiring harnesses might work. Good luck with removing the polution controls. I'd be interested in knowing how it runs afterwards. Mine has tha AIR pump and other gadgets. Runs fairly well. Strong 302.

i would love to know who told you that that is 100% incorrect, yo do know that the 390 is part of the fe family and these were installed in trucks all the way up to early 77.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 01:59 PM
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Hey G, I had a 240, a 302, a 390 and a 460 all in the same truck at one time or another. You can put any engine that you want in your truck. With the right parts....it's a direct bolt in.
If you think that 302 runs good. lol...Tey out a 390 or 460....or a 428 like gas hog has.
Mil1ion also has a most excellant engine. He's running a 429.
Doc.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 02:25 PM
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Question

I *think* G meant the 390 AC brackets fitting his 302?


FWIW..new gallery with this 75 Super, and my 70 CamperSpecial just created.
 

Last edited by wideasleep1; Jun 25, 2005 at 02:29 PM.
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 08:11 PM
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yea..AC, although I'd like to try a 460 for fun. The 302 only gets around 12MPG so how bad can it be?. In a previous life (BK...before kids) I had an XLT with a 400 in it.. all fun. You can see mine in the Gallery "75 Custom Ranger Explorer"
 
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Old Jun 26, 2005 | 01:12 AM
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Wide asleep, Oh...I misunderstood....If it's a question about bracket interchanging as opposed to engine interchanging that's a whole different story. The brackets will definately NOT interchange between 302 and 390. They are way different.
Doc
 
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Old Jun 26, 2005 | 01:43 AM
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none of the brackets will fit anything but a fe engine finding them for a 302 is hard a 460 can be easy if you know where to look.
 
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