Pyrometer install
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Denair, California
Pyrometer install
I've done a search on the forums for "pyrometer" and found alot of helpful ways to install the thermcoupling. I've decided to mount it on the drivers side manifold, just before the coupling and use grease on the drill/tap and idle the engine for atleast 15 seconds and most importantly, TAKE MY TIME.
I've read post about pre and post thermocouplings, is there a difference in length or composition? I purchased an Autometer pyrometer (Lunar 4144) and don't know which type of thermocoupling I have.
Also noticed that the gauge reads 100 degress in the box, will this reset to 0 degrees once the wires are connected or is the gauge defective?
I've read post about pre and post thermocouplings, is there a difference in length or composition? I purchased an Autometer pyrometer (Lunar 4144) and don't know which type of thermocoupling I have.
Also noticed that the gauge reads 100 degress in the box, will this reset to 0 degrees once the wires are connected or is the gauge defective?
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Joined: Jan 2005
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I have installed two pyrometers, after i drilled the holes in the manifolds and after i tapped the holes, I used one of those magnets that you pick up tools with to get all of the shavings out, the magnet has a retractable shaft and I bent it so that when i inserted it, it would pick up more savings, you would not believe how much metal shavings came out, I repeated it until the magnet came out clean, works very well, i did not want the shavings to go into the turbo.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Lynden, WA.
In my eyes, the only way to do this is to remove the manifold. It's only ten bolts. /ManifoldProbe.JPG
And photograph that you've removed it. If your engine is under warranty and you have any sort of turbo failure, then you've displayed due dilligence that you atttempted to make sure there was no metal contamination in the exhaust stream.
Just my humble opinion. Note the location of the flatest, thickest option for probe placement in the photo above. I have noticed that the long probes may touch the far wall of the manifold if installed improperly. This will provide an inaccurate EGT. Tapping in the popular area of the bend in the manifold, because you can drill and tap it while the manifold is still on the engine is not optimum. Adiquate, but that manifold is thinner at the bend. Be careful.
And photograph that you've removed it. If your engine is under warranty and you have any sort of turbo failure, then you've displayed due dilligence that you atttempted to make sure there was no metal contamination in the exhaust stream.
Just my humble opinion. Note the location of the flatest, thickest option for probe placement in the photo above. I have noticed that the long probes may touch the far wall of the manifold if installed improperly. This will provide an inaccurate EGT. Tapping in the popular area of the bend in the manifold, because you can drill and tap it while the manifold is still on the engine is not optimum. Adiquate, but that manifold is thinner at the bend. Be careful.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Carlsbad, California
That's how I did mine, removed the manifold and drilled on the drill press and then tapped and reinstalled. It wasn't that hard of a job, and gives peace of mind knowing that all the chips (and there were a lot!) are blown clear of the manifold and not one is going through the turbo.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Denair, California
Removing manifold
Did you have to replace the exhaust gasket or did you reuse it? My only worry about taking the manifold off is that it won't seal properly and I'll have an exhaust leak.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Lynden, WA.
There is no gasket. Just torque the bolt evenly. I don't remember the torque, but it's not much. It's easier if you jack the truck, then remove the drivers tire. Air tools make it a breeze.
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I agree the best way is to take the manifold off, I was installing the edge with attitude on my 2003 6.0 and the instructions did not state to pull the manifold off, I also called edge to verify this and they said that you could install without removing the manifold and I think when they installed it on trucks or truck'in on tv they didn't remove it either, I did the best I could with the information I had at the time.
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From: Tennesee
Morning,
We have installed literally hunderds of thermos on Ford, Dodge and GM diesels. Removal of the manifold is not necessary and can at a later mileage date cuase yoyu to have manifold leaks. Drill it tap it thread the thermo in and start the truck and let it IDLE for 15 seconds, and small particles that might still be in there will go down the exhaust pipe.
Mark @ DPPI
We have installed literally hunderds of thermos on Ford, Dodge and GM diesels. Removal of the manifold is not necessary and can at a later mileage date cuase yoyu to have manifold leaks. Drill it tap it thread the thermo in and start the truck and let it IDLE for 15 seconds, and small particles that might still be in there will go down the exhaust pipe.
Mark @ DPPI
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Denair, California
Hey I read something in my searches, tell me if this would take out all the chances of getting shavings in the turbo.
I read that if you run the truck as your drilling and tapping the hole, the exhaust will blow the shavings downward without them having a chance to get into the exhaust system.
I think this makes sense.
I read that if you run the truck as your drilling and tapping the hole, the exhaust will blow the shavings downward without them having a chance to get into the exhaust system.
I think this makes sense.
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I have heard of that technique, but I still think some of the shavings would still blow into the turbo and exhaust, while your drilling, the drill bit blocks the hole, so the shaving would have no where else to go. I don't think the shavings would go through the catalytic converter either, over time I think they would cause some damage and blockage. Just my opinion.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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As an amatuer/hobby machinist, and after drilling and tapping my own manifold, I will add my vote to the drill it in place camp.
It is cast iron, not steel, and as such, produces very fine granular particles when drilling or tapping, not the big stringy chips you get when drilling most steel or aluminum. Along with the fact that you are working from underneath and drilling "up" 97% of the small granular chips end up on your face.... Just be sure to use light pressure when you feel the bit start to break through the inside. If you have tapping fluid available, it can make the thread cutting easier, but again, it is not absolutely needed to tap in this cast iron manifold. I tapped mine dry, because I didn't want to walk a flight of steps to get my Tapmatic. My personal opinion is not to use the "grease" method that some people have advocated, but again, it's just my opinion.
It is cast iron, not steel, and as such, produces very fine granular particles when drilling or tapping, not the big stringy chips you get when drilling most steel or aluminum. Along with the fact that you are working from underneath and drilling "up" 97% of the small granular chips end up on your face.... Just be sure to use light pressure when you feel the bit start to break through the inside. If you have tapping fluid available, it can make the thread cutting easier, but again, it is not absolutely needed to tap in this cast iron manifold. I tapped mine dry, because I didn't want to walk a flight of steps to get my Tapmatic. My personal opinion is not to use the "grease" method that some people have advocated, but again, it's just my opinion.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,019
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From: Fountain Valley
I installed 2 pyros, one in the left exhaust header and the second one right after the turbo in the exhaust pipe. I drilled the left header under the truck using a 1/8" first then the proper one for the tap. I used grease on the drill bits. After the proper size was drilled I used a short bent piece of welding rod with grease on it to wipe arround the inside of the hole and retrieved one chip. I used a lot of grease on the tap going in 2 or 3 times to check the proper amount of threads for the fitting. Recheck again for chips with the grease wire and found none.
The upper turbo pipe was drilled with an angle drill attachment bought from Harbor Freight and worked perfectly for it. I used a hose clamp style adapter for that pyro . This was done about 3K miles ago with no problem. Good Luck.
The upper turbo pipe was drilled with an angle drill attachment bought from Harbor Freight and worked perfectly for it. I used a hose clamp style adapter for that pyro . This was done about 3K miles ago with no problem. Good Luck.