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ya the body will flex some more but ya dont need to worry, the top will go back on fine and ya dont need to worry about any leeks, and ya dont need to get a new seal.
ya the body will flex some more but ya dont need to worry, the top will go back on fine and ya dont need to worry about any leeks, and ya dont need to get a new seal.
I agree, I've never had a leak on any of my broncos's even on my 79 Bronco the seals were all torn up and it didn"t leak, actully I don't think it can leak because of that gutter the top snaps into.
Wont know if it leaks till it rains here(in south texas that wont be for a while). I suppose I could run the hose on top. When I put the top back on the middle bolt that holds the top on in the inside stripped out so I cant get it to get hold. Anyone know if the stock hubs will have enoguh strength to work 33's with the torque coming from a 302?
Majic touch? Could be...But come things to consider....
1 - Ignition MUST be on (I know...Just checking)
2 - there is a safety switch on the drivers side inside the tailgate....Known weak spot. If it doesn't go down or up again...press in hard on the drivers side of the tailgate and try it again. That switch can be bypassed if you want.
3 - The harness for the rear window runs along the drivers side of the tailgate then into the fender. It also bends alot in there when opening and closing the tailgate. Check for broken or frayed wires.
Thanks billybob, when you say by-bass do you mean taking out the switch then reconnecting the wires as though the switch was never there? Also is it possible to run 4-100 watt lights with the stock alternator?Im also gonna have a 43 channel CB radio that my grandfather said I could have since he aint using it.
1 - yep..thats what I mean on the switch.
2 - yes on the alternator...but not recommended at all. If you plan on replacing for an upgrade, then go for it. But also plan on replacing the battery since it will get worn too. Best to get a higher amp alternator and a good deep cycle battery like an Optima. With that setup...you could run the lights, CB, winch without a prob.
About that switch...where exactly is it and what does it look like? I dropped the tailgate and took a look at the side of the gate but didnt see it. I didnt try looking inside as it was too dark outside for that. If I bypass the switch (which I probably will do) will I still be able to use the key activated switch on the back.
Oh ya I have a 89 Bronco with a 302, K&N intake system, dual exhaust, 3 inch lift and 33 inch Futura all terrains. Havent gotten around to making a profile yet.
Yes the switch is on the inside of the tailgate. What it does is sense the position of the tailgate latch and if it thinks the tailgate isn't closed completely, it cuts power to the window motor. There is a bushing that gets worm on the latch bolt that can be replaced, or as I mentioned, remove the switch and wire past it. You can still use the key switch, the safety switch is right next to it. The only thing you have to worry about is some dumba** playing with the key switch when the tailgate is down. Not likely but it has happened. If you ever do need to do that though, just make sure the glass is supported when it is out and the tailgate down.
Sounds easy enough. I think I'll go ahead and do that.You know if the stock hubs will have enough strength to work 33's with the torque coming from a 302?
Yup....Mine did. I had the original factory hubs on my 85 with the 302 until about 150k miles. Changed out only cause when I replaced my hubs and ball joints, I dropped a 12lb sledge on some of the hub parts and jacked em up. otherwise, they worked just fine and I did alot of off roading and pulling ppl out of mud and snow. I was running 33's for a bit then switched back to the 31's when I got tired of my speedo being off.
I agree too. My 79, 88 and 89 all have the tops on and off. The same seals still going. Even after the 79 top froze to the ground last winter and I chipped it out - they're still working fine!
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