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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 01:52 PM
  #1  
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From: holderness
air filters?

howdy i have a 94 half ton with a 300 5 speed its runnin gutted cats with a high flow muffaler just wondering what anyone is runnin for air filtration i have a stock filter in it now and wanted to know if high flow filter means high flow dirt and the fdik or whatever k&n has is that worth the 200 bucks alright thanks
 
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 02:34 PM
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From: Senoia, GA
i run a open paper filter thatsx round and is used for heavy equipment on my PSD but on my white truck, since i dont care about my motor i am running a snorkel into the cab just behind the glove box door. i was gonna put a filter on it but i wanted the motor to hurry up and blow! the K&N filters are good as long as the motor doesn't suck air too hard (ie a diesel) b/c then it will just suck the dirt straight through.

-cutts-
 
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 03:33 PM
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From: iowa
biggest issue with the K&N is run a cover on them like the prefilter, I run one on my race truck with the nylon prefilter, and it works very good mud, and water won't go through the prefilter, and then when it dries pull it off, and give er a shake, and that junk just falls off only have to clean and reoil the filter itself once during the race season.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 05:03 PM
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Also on diesels, the K&Ns dry out very rapidly, as they are turboed (at least hte PSDs). Thats why I dont run one on mine... But I do want to find a larger filter w/a greater surface area and then fab a filter box. Preferably that is also a paper filter.

Anyways, back to the thread topic, They do work well, and are better suited for gassers like yours. The prefilter is a very good idea, even if it is only a street truck. Personaly, I believe it would be a good upgrade for your truck.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 10:25 PM
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From: Coutts Canada
A prefilter with a cotton guaze type filter gives you the best of both worlds in a gasser.

The one thing i don't like about paper filters is that if they are a cheapy filter the wire mesh will rust out very quicky (ask me how i know this ) when wet, and also i have see a paper filter start to disentegrate when wet and not changed right away (again ask me how i know this )
 
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 10:31 PM
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I have a hard time getting mine wet, and Ive tried pretty hard...look at my gallery.
Mines not an open element though, so it does make it considerably harder to do...

The wire mesh is hte only thing that keeps it form getting sucked up into the engine on diesels... Mine still go bye-bye every now and then when Im hitting the throttle hard for a long time...
 
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 10:58 PM
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From: Duncan,OK
Those K&N filters maybe fine for pavement pounders and trucks that dont see a lot of dust. But extremely dusty areas I've seen these filters fail to keep enough dirt causing damage to turbos, and in two case wiping out the cylinders in 7.3 PSD. IMO if you use one of these you might as well save your money keep the paper filter and just throw a hand full of dirt in the intake about once a month.

Pat
 
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 11:01 PM
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From: Rep. of Texas
Hes right... Like I was trying to say... no matter what you use though, a prefilter helps...
 
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 12:35 AM
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From: Virginia Beach
For the low RPM's that the 300 see's, you will gain little to nothing in terms of performance with a K&N. Hold onto your stock filter, just keep em changed so there always clean. They've actually tested this in the Inline forums, check posts by a fellow named SilverStreak. You don't run into intake restrictions until you get out of your usable power band. I would save the $200 to put too something worth while. . .headers, lift, tires, cam, etc. . .
 

Last edited by Franken-Truck; Jun 19, 2005 at 12:37 AM.
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 12:44 AM
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From: Coutts Canada
Yeah raw my avatar picture is what did the filter in, i have since acquire the necesities to go to a snorkle that i'll be running into the cab and running a conical cotton gauze filter.


If you must get a gauze filter do what i did, get a generic brand (like what summit racing sells, its what i did), with the aircleaner assembly as well as the flter it only cost me 50 bucks shipped.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 03:20 PM
  #11  
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Yeah... seems you have to do a lot to get them wet, unless its completely open-element...

Im considering doing a semi-open-element with a large paper filter (flat not conical) and a fully functional cowl-scoop hood. Well see... Ive got a lot of plans right now, and they all just get put off till XX part breaks...
 
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 07:15 PM
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It also depends on what you are wheeling in and what you've done to waterproodf the motor as well.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 09:10 PM
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From: Rep. of Texas
Yeah... my wheel wells have plasticish coverings in them all hte way to the frame, and the filter box is well on top of the engine. Makes for a difficult time getting hte element wet...
 
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 01:02 AM
  #14  
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From: charlotte, nc
i used a air cleaner housing out of a 460 econoline and that increased the filter size quite a bite. its funny to buy a filter for it and the guys at the parts store keep telling me theres no way a 460 filter housing should fit in a 351M. they get so confused when you change just a little bit up on them...
 
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Old Jul 5, 2005 | 01:53 PM
  #15  
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From: holderness
well thanks for all the input on filters and i gonna have to say im stickin with the stock one and invest my money into something else. but here is another question for ya. i have a 6 inch lift in my half ton from rough country and im gonna replace the shocks soon and was wondering what shocks to go with and what to put on them to keep them from rusting badly like my current ones?
 
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