ok guys, i just adjusted my steering wheel to tire center position using the drag bar below the pitman arm.... super easy.... now, i was wondering how to get the free play out of the steering wheel.... i think i have read in the past about an adjustment screw on the steering gear box? any info you guys can offer is greatly appreciated !!! BTW.... 99 f250 sd, 4x4, 5.4L, SCSB

 

I have a 01 F250 4X4 that just had an alignment and now I have a slight amount of slack in the steering. Previously it pulled to the right and the alignment centered the steering making the slack very noticable and difficult to drive at freeway speeds (sort of like my old 51 pickup). I plan on replacing the steering damper and checking the entire system from steering column to crosslink.

Will post an update when I track the problem down, please update if you have found your problem.

 

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I have noticed the same thing on my 99 f250. just got new tires and wheels the other day and they aligned it and did my balljoints. Now there is slight play. I was thinking of changing my steering damper to.

 

There is a screw right on top of the steering box that can be adjusted in or out. I believe there is a lock nut on this screw, to hold it in place, so this will need to be loosened first. The way to do this, is to drain all the power steering fluid out of the system, and then tighten the adjustment screw until all the play is out, but not drag or stiffness is felt. I believe there is a torque spec that can be checked by putting a socket on the nut holding the steering wheel on. Im not sure of the spec, but Im sure someone will know it.

 

thanks, i will try this tomorrow.... how much fluid is in the whole system, just so i get enough fluid !!! thanks !!!!

 

It is my understanding that if there is slack in the steering and it is due to a loose steering box and nothing else--- it can be adjusted with the fluid still
in--- Loosen the lock nut with out moving the adjustment bolt and then tighten the adjustment bolt 1\8 - 1\4" at a time until the majority of the slack is gone--- there will still be a small amount of slack once adjusted properly so dont over tighten-- it will just cause binding and premature wear
tighten lock nut and start truck-turn wheel lock to lock a couple times and then check your slack after each adjustment


g/l

 

There is no need to drain the system. You might get a seepage of fluid when you loosen the nut, but nothing more. Look at the screw in the center of the nut to check its' position, as it might move when you break the nut loose. Turn the screw clockwise no more than 1/4 turn at a time, and take the truck for a ride. As long at the steering doesn't bind, you are all right. If it still feels loose, go 1 more 1/4 turn. I wouldn't recommend any more than 1/2 turn total.


RON

 

Ditto, and replace the steering damper with a good aftermarket one (Rancho, about twice the size of stock one).

 

The problem with keeping the fluid in the system is that it may become hard to distinguish fluid in the system and binding in the steering gear. This is why fluid draining, and a torque wrench is the correct way to do it. Sure you can ballpark it by just tightening the screw down until it feels ok, but I thought I would post up the specified procedure for doing it.

 

I replaced the steering damper with an OEM type unit (NAPA steering stabilizer #SC-2961, $36.49), and adjusted the steering box. My 01 required 16 mm and 18mm sockets for the two bolts on the stabilizer. The steering box required a 3/16 allen wrench and 5/8 box end for the adjustment. Left just a slight amount of slack (maybe 1 degree) to avoid any possibility of binding when it reaches operating temp. Total time 30 mins.

While this badboy will never drive like a BMW it can now be driven with one hand on the freeway without fear of sideswiping the lumber truck in the next lane.

 

Thanks for all the great postings. Wrench sizes and all! I replaced ball joints a few months ago, and am doing all new tie-rods today. I found a worn joint on the drag link, and had 1/2 to 5/8 toe-out roughly 1000 mi after each allignment (3 of them). I'm thinking it was the adjusting sleeve. After taking the drag link off the pitman, I found the play in the box. Hopefully between the new rods and adjusting the box it will correct the "pinball" handling that I've been suffering with for so long. I also got new Rough Country shocks and a dual steering stabilizer from them as well. New brakes going on today too as along as I was in this deep. I'll give a test drive after the new tie rods before and after the box adjusting and post the results. Thanks again everyone! You folks are way better than the Goobers behind the parts counters. Denny

 

Finished changing tie-rods, shocks, Steering stabilizers, and brakes this morn. I took it for a quick spin and noticed a huge change. Pulled back in the shop and dropped the drag link from the pitman to adjust out the play in the steering box. With the drag link disconnected you can really feel the play in the pitman well. I took great care to not over adjust and cause a bind in the steering by turning the allen wrench just a bit at a time and then rechecking for play at the pitman. After doing this process 4 times (about a quarter turn over all), I had removed all but the smallest amount of play. I left it there again so as not to over-adjust and cause more bind in the steering than what I already had. I thought for a moment I was driving someone else's truck! It handles really well! There is about 1/2" play in the wheel compared to the 3 to 4" before the repairs. Better still, all of the bind I had before is gone! I was told so many times the ball joints were shot or it's your tires causing it, or the power steering pump is worn out. Nope, none of the above. Now I can turn lock to lock with one finger. I don't even have to be rolling. I hope someone else uses this info so they don't have to suffer like I was. Thanks again to all who put info in these pages. No manual or dealer employee has ever been as useful as this site! Thanks again to all. Denny