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Hello there,
I have a 1975 F250 4x4 with a 390 and it wheel hops like crazy! I DONT LIKE IT. I have searched extensively for an anti wheel hop or anything that reduces it(eliminate preffered). Anytime I try to spin the tires it does this. Just wondering if anybody can help me. Thanks alot,
Brandon
Adding weight could help if you like having all that dead weight in the back. Just don't hit the breaks to hard if it's not bolted down in some way. Added weight is good for driving on a slippery road, but for wheel hop I had always thought traction bars were the best fix. New shocks will also help. You can snap an axle if it's real bad.
Traction bars connect your rear axle tube to your frame to keep the axle from twisting, or turning against the leaf springs. Since the axle is bolted to the leaf springs and the springs are bolted to the frame, the springs flex during acceleration and breaking. The heavy load from the axle turning against the leaf springs caused by hard quick acceleration, like wheel spinning, they flex as they pull the axle up and away from the pavement causing loss of traction. Having no weight to push it down and before forward motion evens things out, the springs now flex the opposite way pushing the axle down, the tires grap and again the axle turns against the springs, the motion is compounded and you get wheel hop. Adding weight will get you better traction but you won't be able to spin the tires as well if you're looking to do some burnouts because you have to over come all the added weight against the pavement. The traction bars will get you the traction without the added weight, keeping the rear of your truck light for tire spinning without the wheel hop.
Last edited by DailyDriver; Jun 14, 2005 at 04:03 AM.
I eliminated wheel hop in a 75 F250 I had with a 390 and Borg warner 4 speed by being a lot more gentle with the clutch and accelerator. I think that's about the same time gas reached an all time high closely followed by tires. Wonder if the 2 were related.
Doc
Check to make sure the U-bolts are tight, the bushings in the leaf springs are still there, and the transfercase doesnt have any movement from loose or worn bushings. When i got my truck, the bushings for the transfercase were really worn and I could rock the tcase back and forth with my hand. It helped alot and got rid of the lound "thunk" when I let off the clutch.
As others have said, the real way to get rid of axle hop is with traction bars, they simply keep the axle from moving when you accelerate.
Thanks alot for all your help! An occasional burnout would be nice. I was just wondering where i can get a traction bar for this model(i have looked but cant find anything for my truck). Thanks again for your help!
Also check your leaf springs. Weak springs tend to give very easy and will be more prone to wheel hop. If you have any kind of blocks between the springs and axle this will contribute to the leverage the axle has on the springs and increase wheel hop. Added weight will only keep the tire from breaking contact with the ground. It won't prevent the axle from twisting and destroying u-joints, drivelines, yokes, axles, etc. Traction bars (or ladder bars as they're often referred to for trucks) are a must for a decent horsepower engine and a driver with a heavy foot.
Thanks alot for the replies! you guys are quick. I checked out the link and found my application but I have contact overload springs. If i buy the kit, should i just take those overload springs off? Thanks again,
shocks help if they are worn. I am slightly disappointed in the replies here, mainly because I personally are not able to make a recomendation... tire type and condition? front wheel hop in 4x4 or rear wheel hop 2wd or all of above? tire pressure? Air pressure on all tires that are in contact with road? Open differential? limited slip differential? locked differential? Unknown differential? A weak/failing limited slip differential can become overwhelmed and chatter and have all kinds of unpredictable symptoms no matter what conditions. suspension??? original? stock replacement? lifted? modified? never touched from factory for 50 years? original blocks or lift riser blocks? Sorry to burst your bubble but if the spring and suspension condition is unknown, and/or is original, I would give some odds that I would find severely worn parts throughout that rear suspension system, rotten rubber bushings, weak or broken leaf springs, worn/rusted bolts, damaged/rusted/worn/bent shackles, loose/worn center pin and spring pad. these are nor drag cars, they are work trucks and tend to get worn parts more so than other vehicles.
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