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No make headers with AIR pipe in them?

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  #31  
Old 07-04-2005, 06:22 AM
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I actually just finished putting my headers on yesterday it took me near damn a week and a half (due to work and such but I would have had it easy if I didnt crack the last bolt in the cylinder head ^&*%!!! but I had to take apart my whole engine wich actually gave me the opertunity to clean my manifold EFI ports and lay down new gaskets I bought rebuilt cylinder heads and I got fugged on that I went from a 3/8 to a 5/8 bolt on my altinator bracket go figure I painted my valve covers ford blue. But anyway I had bought some Flowtech headers at a resonable price of around 300-375 USD and they have the air pipe coming from the front of the header and boy let me tell you if you manage to get the Air pipe off the OEM exhaust just screw it on the headers I cant get the bolts apart for jack squat I let them soak for about 3 hours in WD and nothing Tried heating,freezing and heating again nothing so there sitting in a coffee can full of WD tell Iaround noon and try to crack them loose see if it does anything I would also recomed buy allen head bolts found those to go on alot easier than the bolts that come with the headers But I was woundering if anyone knew away I could ge around using the pipe if the nuts dont crack loose Its driving me up the wall if not than is there away I could get them loose if anyone has prior experiance with this pain in the ***** please reply Kyle PS I have a 1996 Bronco XLT 351 W
 
  #32  
Old 07-04-2005, 07:21 AM
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they have the air pipe coming from the front of the header
That's EGR, not AIR
 
  #33  
Old 07-04-2005, 09:57 AM
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Use PB blaster or similar penetrating lube vs WD. WD-40 doesn't have any lubricative properties. It's "water displacement, 40th attempt"....it's for rust removal or partial protection. It evaporates so it doesn't work well for a long period of time, but it has it's uses.

I use it if a part got some light surface rust, the WD will take it off....
 
  #34  
Old 07-04-2005, 01:12 PM
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My bad EPNCSU2006
 
  #35  
Old 07-04-2005, 01:33 PM
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It's straight, I just didn't want any confusion.
 
  #36  
Old 07-04-2005, 02:38 PM
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Y-pipe to match headers

While were on this topic.


Who sells a Y-pipe to replace the factory one. I cant find any vendors that do.....
 
  #37  
Old 07-04-2005, 04:25 PM
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I think both bassani and dynomax sell replacement y-pipes. At least they did at one time, I'm not sure if they still do or not.
 
  #38  
Old 07-04-2005, 05:08 PM
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Bassani still makes em, I got one on my truck. Click that link in Eric's post to Bassani. I got mine through that link and it helps support FTE's sponsors.
 
  #39  
Old 07-04-2005, 05:27 PM
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I used ford racing shorties on my 302 and like jeeper siad it wasn't hard. Rust welded bolts will be the biggest problem. I would also suggest doing the passenger side first on my truck due to other things in way it was the hardest to line up. The driver's side was a breeze took about thirty minutes minus the time for the rusted bolts.
 
  #40  
Old 07-04-2005, 05:29 PM
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I must of got lucky, all the manifold bolts on my old 302 came right out, I didn't even use a penetrating lube.
 
  #41  
Old 07-04-2005, 05:32 PM
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Mine had one of two on the passenger side where the AC hoses run. I live in florida so I guess condensation from the hoses had dripped on them the rest where though.
 
  #42  
Old 07-04-2005, 05:45 PM
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Yo know if I plug up the holehole on the headers would my truck run ok still?
 
  #43  
Old 07-08-2005, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MustangGT221
Bassani still makes em, I got one on my truck. Click that link in Eric's post to Bassani. I got mine through that link and it helps support FTE's sponsors.
Did the Y-pipe come with a bung installed for the O2 sensor?

They y-pipes are sold with an optional Flange for 22 dollars--whats that about?

And do these y-pipes bolt up to any aftermarket header or only Bassani headers?
 

Last edited by coplin; 07-08-2005 at 04:43 PM.
  #44  
Old 07-09-2005, 02:35 PM
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TTT bump ...
 




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