Major problem was wondering if you would be so kind...
on the clutch linkage of my 94 f-150... There is a part that looks like a plunger going through the firewall, it also appears to be a sensor. There is a little hook made from pop metal. The bloody thing broke off! I was supposed to be leaving for a fishing trip this weekend. Thankfully it didn't go 24 hours later, I'd be 60 km into the bush.

Anybody have any ideas how to Jerry Rig this thing? I'd like to go fishing this weekend just going to have to be a different lake (somewhere close to the highway)
major bummer

 

i am looking at a picture of clutch. describe your part better and maybe i can help. what engine/ trans. describe the hook thing better.

 

I don't think there is a way to jerry rig this. It sounds like the eye on the clutch master cylinder push rod (what looks like a plunger) has broken. This eye fits over the actuating rod of the clutch pedal assembly. There is a great deal of pressure exerted by this push rod when actuating the clutch. When the same situation occurred on my '93, I had to purchase a new master cylinder from the local Ford dealer. $103.00.

The "sensor" you are describing is, I believe, the safety switch requiring the clutch pedal to be completely pressed prior to starting the engine.

Hope this helps.

 

Couldnt he (for temporary fix) just use the old screwdriver cylinoid bypass trick to get it started?? Is that the problem, it wont start? Because the clutch safety switch (the sensor you talk about) can be bypassed...a while ago i bought a new safety switch and if i remember (cant find the ford dealer receit) it was like 65-70$. Good luck fishin.

 

yup thats the one! well I slathered it with JP weld bond... I'm dreaming if I think its going to hold, thanks for your help guys... on closer inspection the eye that fits over the actuating rod is plastic. Looks like the fishin' trip is out.

Firstonraceday was it a tough fix? looks like a sir clip is retaining the unit, don't know whats holding it on the other side...

 

Actually, this happened on my '88 F-150 as well, and I just bypassed around the switch. If you break out a schematic, it will show which wires go through the switch that control the neutral safety/clutch interlock portion. Simply jumper around that sucker, and the truck will start again. Just remember that your truck will now start in gear.

Sean

 

The repair/replacement isn't too bad. Probably the most difficult aspect is getting the small pin removed where it holds the hydraulic line to the bottom of the master cylinder. Once the line is removed, unbolt the old unit from the firewall. Then install new pushrod (comes with new master cylinder) into the new master cylinder and attach to firewall. Attach hydraulic line, replace switch over push rod, attach new push rod to clutch pedal assembly and bleed. There is no bench bleeding of the new unit. Bleed after it's installed.

Hope this helps.

 

firstonraceday has you on the right track. why do vehicles always act up right when you do not need the drama? good luck fixin' and fishin'!

 

Was it the metal clip that broke? or was it the little plastic *** that the clip clips onto that broke? That plastic *** is part of the sensor, not the whole master cylinder.

Run to a junkyard and grab either another clip, or another sensor. Took me an hour total to do so as I broke that metal clip once. Just drove to a local junkyard and swiped it. Any 87-96 manual trans should have the same thing, atleast one of those trucks are in every junkyard (millions of them out there). That sensor comes off the master cylinder, you don't have to replace the whole unit. The sensor is what has the electrical plug on it, it snaps onto the piston stem (or "plunger"), and is held on by that metal clip. To remove the sensor, you take that metal clip off (sounds like it's already off) and remove the electrical connector. Now, it gets a little tricky in wording here, but turn the sensor so that you can see the "top". You will see a clip that needs to be slid back and removed in order to be able to take that sensor off the piston stem. Remove that clip (slides back) and that will give you the ability to pull the sensor off. You'll be left with just the master cylinder's piston stem connecting to the clutch linkage, the sensor will be in your hand




The sensor has a little spring loaded plastic piece that clips onto the piston stem and as you push the clutch down, that piston stem moves in, and the plastic piece moves with it to sense the movement of where the clutch pedal is.

See if you can run to the junkie and grab one off another truck...if I am reading this correctly (it's a little bit confusing so far)...it doesn't sound like you need to replace the master cylinder, just either the metal clip, or the sensor, depending on which one broke (can't tell in your description). No biggy dude.

As for jerry rigging, remove the sensor and bypass the wiring like the above poster mentioned, but it might be faster/easier to just go to the junkyard and get one. Don't bother going to the dealer for that sensor either, get one at the junkyard and save the $$, it's an easy grab.

 

Thanks for your help gentlemen...

I ordered the new part from ford 147.00 CDN... not tooooo bad.

Looking at my Haynes book its the clutch master cylinder push rod, its made of plastic. The push rod has a "eye" that goes over a bushing attached to the cross shaft lever. That eye has broken.

To bad there isn't a aftermarket part available... something more skookum perhaps made from steel instead of plastic... I would imagine this is a pretty popular part!

Firstonraceday, yes that small pin looks like it is going to be a problem on the master cylinder. How did you remove it? did you just drift it out???

please excuse my ignorance. I'm at the low end of the learning curve when it comes to mechanical repairs. All this help is extremely appreciated.

 

That's all you can do, or at least what I did, drift it out. I forget what I used, possibly a small nail. Just be careful, the master cylinder housing is constructed of plastic.

 

The little plastic bushing broke? I'd have to look at it again but I know that the piston stem is solid metal, and at the end where the eye is is plastic over metal...

 

did i see $70 for a switch??

 

Probably...when I was doing my 393 build, I went to Ford for a few misc parts, one part was for my thermactor system. It's just a check valve and a metal tube about 3 feet long....$120!. Some parts are very expensive.

 

thanks for you help guys repair went together without a hitch.