sputtering 223
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From: KC
sputtering 223
So I just bought a 63 uni with a 223 I6 in it and it sounded and drove great at first. Every where I go people ask about the truck. But starting about four days ago after driving for about ten minutes it started to miss badly and then died, so I waited then started her back up and drove home and noticed the fuel pump(Kem) was leaking so I tightened the star nut on the bottom and no more leak but still the occasional stall. Then the pump finally gave out and started spewing gas so I replaced it but still the misfiring and stall. So here are symptoms, misfires badly and stalls and will start but runs too rough to drive. I emptied the carb(Holley 1V) and adjusted the carb to get home but still had problems getting home. I have changed the fuel filter, fuel pump, the points plugs and wires have all recently been replaced. The carb is getting fuel and the choke cable and assembly are all working. The carb is fairly new as well, replaced by PO. So thats about it any thoughts will help, I dont mind having a project (my 65) but Id really like to be driving this sucker day to day.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,813
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From: Connecticut
Does the truck have a fuel filter? If so, make sure it's not clogged with rust, dirt. etc... How are the plugs? Black and fouled? or tan or brown? You could be sucking crap out of the tank. if you don't have a external filter, I'd add one for good measure.
Barry
Barry
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From: KC
yeah barry it has an in-line fuel filter and I did replace it. That was my first thought as well but the carb is getting fuel even when its durring its little hissy fit. One thing that i didnt mention before is when the truck starts missing badly if I give it a little gas or choke it then it dies. It will start back up and idle but way to rough to drive.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 957
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From: Winchendon MA
Sounds like a hunk of rubber from the old fuel pump made it up to the float needle and seat thus is holding the float off it's seat and it's drowning the motor with to much fuel.
Carefully remove the top section of the carb you'll see the float and needle take them out and clean and dry them off try to empty the bowl then blow out the fuel line from the pump to the motor with compressed air to remove any more crude in that line.
You should have two filters. One before the pump and one as it goes in to the carb.
Best of luck.
44Dwarf
PS: you might need new plugs now and change the oil and filter too.
Carefully remove the top section of the carb you'll see the float and needle take them out and clean and dry them off try to empty the bowl then blow out the fuel line from the pump to the motor with compressed air to remove any more crude in that line.
You should have two filters. One before the pump and one as it goes in to the carb.
Best of luck.
44Dwarf
PS: you might need new plugs now and change the oil and filter too.
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From: KC
thanks dwarf that is what Im hearing from a lot of my buddies here too, took it on six or seven short trips (10 min. or less) yesterday and she ran great so I thought Id take a look in that carb today and see whats going on. Wanted to ask why I would need to change the oil now?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Winchendon MA
If you are flooding it with too much feul it will was the oil film off the cyl walls and collect in the oil. This will do two things.
1) thins oil out making it easyer to let more fuel in ( self feeding).
2) makes acids in the oil that will eat way at bearing metals.
44
1) thins oil out making it easyer to let more fuel in ( self feeding).
2) makes acids in the oil that will eat way at bearing metals.
44
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,191
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From: West Union, OH USA
Could the old fuel pump be damaged by the engine jumping time, thus continuing to run rough after replacing the fuel pump.
Maybe I'm wrong. I hope I am.
This would be the worst case senario. I'd take off the top of the carb first as suggested then maybe use a timing light.
Maybe I'm wrong. I hope I am.
This would be the worst case senario. I'd take off the top of the carb first as suggested then maybe use a timing light.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
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I think your carb has a side bowel correct? The needle and seat can be removed
simply by taking off the line and screwing out the fitting the neddle will, if I remember correctly, come along. If it is loading up blowing black smoke and the needle valve is
clean I think the diaphram on the power valve has torn and is causing the rich condition. That is the valve that screws into the crab below the metering block, has four sides
to lossen it. Thay are different #'s make sure you get the right one.
simply by taking off the line and screwing out the fitting the neddle will, if I remember correctly, come along. If it is loading up blowing black smoke and the needle valve is
clean I think the diaphram on the power valve has torn and is causing the rich condition. That is the valve that screws into the crab below the metering block, has four sides
to lossen it. Thay are different #'s make sure you get the right one.
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From: KC
yeah kotzy its a side bowl, thanks for the tip on the needle Ill check er out today. Glad i dont have to pull the carb to do so. To tell the truth its been running well for the last three days, went on a couple twenty minute trips today and ran like a champ. Which leads me to beleive that there was something not letting the needle seat that has worked its way loose. So ill have a look and see if theres anything obvious in there.
Thanks again guys.
BTW- I cant take this thing anywhere without starting a conversation or someone offering to buy it.
Thanks again guys.
BTW- I cant take this thing anywhere without starting a conversation or someone offering to buy it.
Elder User
Joined: May 2001
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From: Owasso Oklahoma USA
I had a similar problem with a new Holley 4 barrel carb on a 289 V8. I put a new Fram fuel filter on when I installed the carb. It ran great for quite some time. Somehow grit got thru the filter and in the needle valve holding it open partially. It would not run good at all. I found that by looking into the carb throat when it was idling I could see gas dripping into the venturis. I got rid of the Fram filter and bought one of the inline ones with clear glass and never had another problem after I cleaned out the carb. I did have to replace the spark plugs.
Also my son inlaw's '78 F100 was having similar problems. We finally had to remove the fuel sender. The fuel strainer inside the tank was disintegrating and clogging up the fuel filter. We had changed the fuel filter twice and replaced the carb and fuel pump before we found it. We cut the 2nd filter open to see if it had any foreign material in it, and it did.
Also my son inlaw's '78 F100 was having similar problems. We finally had to remove the fuel sender. The fuel strainer inside the tank was disintegrating and clogging up the fuel filter. We had changed the fuel filter twice and replaced the carb and fuel pump before we found it. We cut the 2nd filter open to see if it had any foreign material in it, and it did.
Last edited by rogerf100; Jun 12, 2005 at 07:38 PM.
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From: KC
ok so heres how the story ends I HOPE. The keeper ring that keeps the foat and needle acting as one was too loose so I removed it bent it and replaced it and it seemed to do the trick. Before I replaced it there was a delay before the needle would fall, now there is no such delay and the truck is much more responsive.
Thanks again fellas,
Nick
Thanks again fellas,
Nick