steering returnability problem
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,324
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From: Michigan
steering returnability problem
I've got a 95 f150 4x4, manual hubs, 155,000 miles. Some time ago started having a steering problem after auto hubs started engaging by them selves. Replaced the hubs with mile marker manuals. Also replaced the rotors, pads, and bearings all at the same time. This has not helped. The problem occurs when making a right or left turn from a stop or just a 90* turn. The truck will continue to turn until you force it past center and then will jerk back staight. Also note that after a period of time this behavior stopped for 2-3 weeks. Then out of the blue it started again. I'm at a loss, I can't track down the culprit part. If I lock the hubs the problem goes away. When I put the hubs back to free the problem returns. I am thinking either the u-joints, the diff, the steering box or the pump.
Can someone please help me. This is my daily driver that sees about 400 miles per week and the steering is really getting to me.
Thanks Al.
Can someone please help me. This is my daily driver that sees about 400 miles per week and the steering is really getting to me.
Thanks Al.
Tuned
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 436
Likes: 0
From: MI
I know what your talking about. Its like its locked turning untill you force it hard the other way. I had the same problem with my 94 f150 2wd. The problem would come and go just as yours.
Its most likely the valves in the steering pump sticking. There is no real good way to clean them and after that many miles, its probably due for replacement.
Its most likely the valves in the steering pump sticking. There is no real good way to clean them and after that many miles, its probably due for replacement.
Last edited by RC Dan; Jun 8, 2005 at 09:59 PM.
Tuned
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 436
Likes: 0
From: MI
Yes, its in the pump. There are valves in it that open and close to change the pressure. When they get old, they get gunk and dirt built up in them and stick. A re-maned pump isn't real expensive.
Please look for advice from others first as I don't claim to be a mechanic. I'm telling you information I've learned and know.
If you do replace the pump, try to drain as much old fluid from the lines as possible so you can have all new, clean fluid. I'll also note that pulling the pulley off is a real pain, and putting it back on isn't much easier.
Please look for advice from others first as I don't claim to be a mechanic. I'm telling you information I've learned and know.
If you do replace the pump, try to drain as much old fluid from the lines as possible so you can have all new, clean fluid. I'll also note that pulling the pulley off is a real pain, and putting it back on isn't much easier.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,008
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From: Annapolis,MD.
Dry balljoint!! Not to disagree with RC. If the balljoints are original they are non-greasable,after time they start to "bind".Quick way to check is; knock tie-rods loose and make sure wheel moves freely back/forth with little to no effort.If that's okay,then start thinking about the pump (pressure control valve) or the box.
Last edited by SRD4X4; Jun 9, 2005 at 05:40 AM.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,324
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From: Michigan
Ball joints have all been replaced and are lubed regularly. Doesn't the pump just give the steering gear (box?) hydralic pressure to give you power steering? I didn't know there were any valves or anything else in there. The pump doesn't make any whining or abnormal noises, could it still be bad?
Thanks for the suggestions
Al.
Thanks for the suggestions
Al.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,324
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From: Michigan
Another question; why would putting the truck in four wheel drive or locking the hubs make the problem disappear and then return? Is this pump related? I almost think it is in the u-joints or diff. Could it be?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Central NY
When my 94 did this , it was ball joints and ujoints. Its amazing to how bad these parts can get and the truck just keeps on going....
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I'm thinking the front ujoints. They have to do move back and forth with the steering and if they are froze they will be hard to move. But when the hubs are locked the ujoint is turning making it easier to move. Those ujoints can freeze up hard. Just a thought
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Michigan
I think I'll go for the u-joints first as they're less expensive but more manual labor involved. Is it alright if I skip the inner pass side joint as that would involve dropping the diff? That one doesn't get too much abuse. What's the consensus?
Thanks
Al
Thanks
Al
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Michigan
Update. Problem solved. Spoke to a mechanic and the guys at Bronco Graveyard and they both seemed to think the problem was in the steering gear. So I got a rebuilt gear and that fixed the problem.
Thanks for all the help.
Al
Thanks for all the help.
Al
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Michigan
Reupdate. Problem not solved, just a little more hidden. The new gear makes turning easier. Pulled the tie rods from the knuckles and could barely turn each side by hand. It was a bit easier on one axis of the u-joint than other so I know for sure this is the problem. Cross my fingers. I'm going to tackle those today.
Al
Al
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Michigan
U-joints were rusty and frozen stiff. The slip joint on right side also rusted solid. When I tried to pull the slip joint apart, the inner shaft pulled right out of the diff; very little effort. Since I didn't have the parts or time to drop the diff, I put everything back together; new u-joints and seals. Steers nice and smooth but now I have another job, tear it all down again and finish the job. Is it common for the slip joint to become solid like that and is that why I lost the snapring that holds the inner shaft in the diff?
Thanks
Al
Thanks
Al
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