Radius Arms
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 1999
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Radius Arms
While looking for a dropped part I noticed that my radius arm bushing on the pass. side is totally trashed. It almost looks like the cat converter might have melted it. I looked and the bracket is bolted on this side and riveted on the driver side, which I find strange. My question is can I replace just one side now, and build up my courage to do the rivets later? (I've read all the posts and have no air tools!) If it is heat, how can I fix that issue? Thanks for any info.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 1999
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Radius Arms
John ,
You can do one side at a time .Its usually the right side bushings and motor mounts that die due to their close proximity to the exhaust system. If you dont have any air tools you are reduced to a hammer and chisel . Id opt for either a friend who has some tools to do the job or look for a shop that will do it for a reasonable price .
You can do one side at a time .Its usually the right side bushings and motor mounts that die due to their close proximity to the exhaust system. If you dont have any air tools you are reduced to a hammer and chisel . Id opt for either a friend who has some tools to do the job or look for a shop that will do it for a reasonable price .
Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 1999
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Radius Arms
John:
When you go to buy your bushings ask for the problem solver bushings.This might help with the heat factor. The reason one side is bolted and the other riveted is becouse someones already changed one side.
Good luck.
When you go to buy your bushings ask for the problem solver bushings.This might help with the heat factor. The reason one side is bolted and the other riveted is becouse someones already changed one side.
Good luck.
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Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Indiana
Radius Arms
John, you can change the bushings with out air tools. You can drill through the center of the rivets, step up a little at a time with your drill bit size, then cut them with a chisel and 4 lb hammer.(or a smaller one, it will just be harder)You can take a cheater pipe and put it on a breaker bar to get the nuts off of the radius arms. then torque the stuff when you go back together. Dont let it spook you, you can do this job at home just fine, save a lot of money too!! Of course you need to support the truck properly.
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Radius Arms
Wow, thanks for all the info, what an awesome resource to have! I'm confused about supporting the truck though. I was under the impression I could do this with the tires still on the ground. (bolted side) I can see a problem with clearance while swinging hammers during the chiseling of evil rivets, is that the case?
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Radius Arms
for the side that's riveted,you can change it out without touching a hammer,chisel or drill!Simply support the truck by the frame,remove the tire,the caliper(support with wire,etc.),the lower shock bolt,the spring bolt & the rear radius nut.Now the radius arm will move wherever you want it to.I bet a novice could do it this way with hand tools and still beat the time it takes to drill,hammer & chisel the rivets out. The only way I would EVER get rid of rivets is if they are loose in the hole.
Phillip
Phillip
Mountain Pass
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Radius Arms
John:
As far as supporting the truck you should put a block in front of and in back of the front tire so that when you dissasemble the bracket the tire wont roll back. Even if it only rolls back 1/2inch it will make it a pain to lign everything back up. Also it helps to place a jack under the arm so when you unbolt the brkt it doesnt pop down from the pressure.
Good luck.
As far as supporting the truck you should put a block in front of and in back of the front tire so that when you dissasemble the bracket the tire wont roll back. Even if it only rolls back 1/2inch it will make it a pain to lign everything back up. Also it helps to place a jack under the arm so when you unbolt the brkt it doesnt pop down from the pressure.
Good luck.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Indiana
Radius Arms
I do this job by supporting the truck with a jack stand under the frame between the front axle and the front bumper. Then I use a floor jack under the axle to lower it as needed ( you need to have these two means of support ). I remove the wheel to have the extra room to work. Be sure and check your radius arm bracket it could be egg shaped if it has been run to long with the bushings shot. You will want to replace it even if its slightly worn as it will let the radius arm work around in it and destroy the new bushings quickly. You can get the brackets at your local Ford dealer. I could never get enough movement on the front end even undoing the coil springs and shocks to do this with out removing the brackets from the frame.But thats just my experience.
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Radius Arms
Hey SuperDave,I forgot to warn about the secondary nut that is underneath the coil spring spacer,after you remove the coil spring.That's the nut that continues to hold the radius arm to the beam until you remove it with the center bolt,then,the radius arm is all by itself! A lot of people try to pull the beam with the radius arm still attached forward enough for the pilot at the rear of the arm to clear the bracket,and,I have heard of some succeeding when ever adequate hoists/pullers were employed. This way put's a lot of stress on the beam pivot bushing,even if you don't succeed in clearing the rear bracket.Thank god no one try's that method anymore!Final note,remember that there is another nut to remove under the coil spring spacer before the radius arm is to be removed without force.
Phillip
Phillip
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Radius Arms
Phillip, OK I get it now, your talikng about removing the complete radius arm from the axle beam. Because yes the pivot bushings would not allow enough forward movement to clear the arm from the bracket. I would always go the rivet cutting route unless I had to change the radius arm itself due to damage from bad bushings. I always had to rent a torque wrench that had enough capacity to re torque the bolt on the arm to beam as it was quite high if I remember right.