'97 Downpipe Installation
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Senior User
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'97 Downpipe Installation
I'm going to purchase a complete exhaust system including downpipe. I'd like to go 4" throughout, but looking at the space where the "flattened" OEM downpipe is located I can't believe a 4" will fit through there. Can anyone give me some insight as to how difficult this would be, should I go 3" on the downpipe instead? Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated, aloha.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: CentralEastern Utah
3" is the biggest that will fit with-out magor modifications. Most kits for tha OBS trucks come with a 3" dp. And still most people have to bend the weld/pinch seam over to get it in their. Its not that tough. The worst part is getting the old one out of their.
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From: Seattle
I did the downpipe mod last spring. You need to get in there with a sawzall (perfect reason to purchase a very useful tool) from the top. Be EXTRA careful that you don’t saw into the uppipe on the passenger side. Saw the old downpipe in half and remove it from the bottom. I sawed mine into three pieces but most people don’t have to do this. Took me about six hours to get that sucker out. Get a long blade of high quality construction to do this job.And yes, I bought a 3 1/2 inch pipe.
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From: North Idaho
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From: Michigan
mxdoo
I just changed my turbine outlet pipe back at the tail end of winter and installed the Banks kit. It took about 2.5 hrs to install the new pipe. 2 hrs of that was cutting the old pipe out. Definitely use a sawzall with a couple of blades. One cut at the top near the turbo housing and one at the bottom just before the bend looking from the top. You'll have to make about 3-5 half in deep cuts in the firewall / exhaust shield right where the pipe bends and nearly touches. After making the cuts, take a hammer and tap back the sheet metal to fold it back. Its kind of a pain in the neck, but once you're done man what a difference it makes in breathing. Once you get the flat OEM pipe out you'll wonder how the truck ever ran as good as it did.
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: Templeton, Massachussetts
Originally Posted by watermanh
Thank you all for the useful information. So sounds like 3-3.5" is the way to go on the downpipe. Should I still go with 4" from DP back or stay with same? Thanks again gang, aloha.
the only way i think a 4" would fit is w/ a body lift. or possibly denting the DP as to put a good flat spot in it. but then you are loosing some cfm i would think.
if you do try to dent stainless. good luck to ya!!
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Helotes, Texas
Originally Posted by watermanh
Thank you all for the useful information. So sounds like 3-3.5" is the way to go on the downpipe. Should I still go with 4" from DP back or stay with same? Thanks again gang, aloha.
Max
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Braham MN
I will add that if anyone has access to a plasme cutter, USE THAT INSTEAD. wow I can't imagine how you guys get those things out with a sawzall. there cast iron, or something of that like, cuz there thick, and heavy.
I had to cut that lil 90* right off the turbo, and cut it in the middle, just below the up pipe, one piece went up and out the top, other down and under.
take the hood off too, if possible, alot easier, plus more light.
Diesel Rod
I had to cut that lil 90* right off the turbo, and cut it in the middle, just below the up pipe, one piece went up and out the top, other down and under.
take the hood off too, if possible, alot easier, plus more light.
Diesel Rod
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From: Michigan
It wasn't the prettiest thing using a sawzall. I bet a plasme cutter would be sweet to use in that situation. If you guy's could have seen the look on my wife's face when she walked out in the garage. It probably sounded like I was cutting my truck in half. After a few cus words and two beers later, it was worth it.