After trying on and off for two years to get my No Limit system to work I sold it (I really hated that thing) and bought a Classic Performance Products kit.

My personal opinion is the Classic kit is much easier to install and works a lot smoother but that said it has it's own set of problems (it seems I'm never satisfied).

 

apologies to Roger and anyone else I may have mislead with that posies thing with the wedding dresses (I guess I was thinking of girly motors and stuff) and Lord knows I have never mislead anyone before

 

To AXracer and fatfenders56, there is no problem, the idea is to generate as much discussion going ,to help me and many others who are keen to go down this road but are unsure of what is out there and obviously the quality. I emailed to posies and got a reply , they do not do kits for any trucks.

 

sorry cool, there I go misleading again. I knew that Posies doesn't do truck kits, what I meant to say was that you may try to emulate their 28-34 passenger kits. They open pretty much the same as the front hinge on our trucks but they do it in 1 motion. I copied one once and it worked great but the geometry is pretty exacting. hope that clears it up.

 

DC, I guess the bottom line from all this is there are some kits that are better than others, but none that are an undisputed home run yet...

 

o'k but if we let the subject "sit" for awhile, we may get some other input thanks again.

 

I suppose I've seen them all and heard all the stories by now and no one person is ever happy with the product, the install, or the operation much less the vendor support. I did see one system and the owner was very happy after building his own. I put 2 pics in my gallery under "body Work" It does NOT slide forward , buy rather as a hatchback. You are not off in your thinking AX. The slider serves more to alter the fulcrum point if you will. This of course lends a bit of help in the weight balance.
AX, add more elaboratation on this as I know you understand the mech/sci.

 

El C which part do you want me to elaborate on, the hinge design or the lift assist cylinders?

 

My Girly motor alarm just went off! Is someone talking bad about my girl?

 

El C and Ax -

My front tilt is a little unusual. It pins at the front and uses gas lifts to support it. Is that what you guys are talking about?



I have some more shots in my gallery album "Front Tilt Hood"

 

RJ, that's exactly what I want to do. It's a bit hard to see in the gallery pics how you did the hinges, so please give us more detailed info! Materials used? How did you locate them, decide what gas lifts to use, does it latch? how is the fit at the cowl? Did you build in any adjustments? Is there any interference or paint scraping? What's the purpose of the springs? Could you take some closeups of the hinges with the hood off? How hard is it to open? Would you change anything if you did it again?

 

Heres a link to where you can see this. You can buy it alone from mid fifty, I'm not sur if no limit sells it seperate
http://216.105.56.26/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=40
Mike

 

Ax - I will take more pictures this weekend and post them.

The springs are to preload the hinge pins and keep them engaged. Once the gas struts are disengaged, you just pull the hinge pins inboard and lift the hood off. Very handy feature, believe me. It does take two people to do, just because the hood's too big to handle without whacking something. The hinge pins are 3/8 dia L-pins from a tool supply store. The springs were scrounged from a Home Depot.

The gas lifts were selected by "guess and by God" and were just eyeballed for fit , length and strength. I got them at Pep Boys. The ones I used are Sachs Stabilus p/n #SG126002. The Pep Boys near me let me just pour over the display, take each down, measure the length and compress it to get an idea of pressure. These work really well. They hold the hood in a strong wind and yet aren't so strong that it's hard to close. They go over-center when the hood is closed. Even without the hood latched, it doesn't tend to bounce when driving down the road.

There is a latch at the firewall with a cable that runs into the cab and presents a **** under the dash at the left end of the dash near the driver door. I can reach in thru the open window and pull the **** to pop the hood. The latch is a truck latch I scrounged from a junker somewhere. I made up a plate with a latch pin that uses 2 screws to attach it to the hood at the rear transverse support.

The fit at the cab is great, but only after I squared the front sheet metal. Before that, it was pretty ugly. I used the tension rods in the hood to help "walk" it side to side to dial in that area of fit. There are also hood bump stops that I made that help fair the hood and cowl.

The key to the whole thing is the hinge housings. I'll need to remove one and take some pictures to describe it.

Film at eleven...

 

Randy, I like the set up, are you not using that big ol sheet metal cover (what is that thing called?) it looks like the wind deflectors are bare on the top. Are these build pictures or do you run it that way? I used a GM brake caliper slide bolt where you have the ''L'' pins, worked very well but didn't have the quick disconnect feature. very clever!

 

Can't wait for the feature film, the trailer is exciting!