Drums back on??????
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Drums back on??????
Ok before ou laugh at me, it's my first time doing drum brakes. I got everything done, but cannot get the drums to fit back on over the new shoes. I closed the threaded screw thing all the way and still could not get them on. I know there must be some trick to doing it, but i ran out of sun, so she sits on jackstands........................................ ..............
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 656
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From: Houston
sometimes the new shoes like to site spread apart a little against the wall they lean against. Pull them out toward you a little and push them in at the top at the breake bleeder valve. Doing this could make break flude come out of your master cylinder.(this is normmal), but you need to push the two shoes together at the top. you may need to open your bleed valve.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Mount Tremper, New York
it should be right under the drivers side, follow the single cable till it turns to 2 cable and you found the adjuster
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Austin
Originally Posted by JetBlackBronco
it should be right under the drivers side, follow the single cable till it turns to 2 cable and you found the adjuster
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Did you have the drums resurfaced or are they new? If not, then check and see if there is a groove on the inside edge that goes closer too the center of the axle, after so many years of being on the truck drums wear a groove were the drums ride thus creating a peak wich makes them a PITA too get off then again too get back on.
OH. and if it does have the groove then just take an angle grinder and run it around the edge too buff it out.
OH. and if it does have the groove then just take an angle grinder and run it around the edge too buff it out.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Minneapolis, MN
BRK is right on. The rust ridge usually makes this process more difficult. I am not sure that I would take an angle grinder to it, however a very coarse sand paper will remove the rust ridge to allow installation. They do make a very inexpensive tool for measuring the OD of the shoes and the ID of the drum, this will verify that you at least are in the ballpark and stand a chance of installation.
Good Luck
Good Luck
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my drums where in very good shape suprisingly. However because i bought performance brake shoes, no adjustments i made allowed the drum to clear the shoes. Then i bumped off the little threaded adjuster at the bottom, and that allowed the drum to slide on perfectly. I carefully tested them by going forwards and backwards, and after that taling it for a very short test drive, and i only noticed that i need to bleed my brakes now. what do ya'll think? is driving around without the adjuster in there dangerous? It doesn't seem to support anything , it just pushes the brake out if you need that, and i certainly did not.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Minneapolis, MN
I am not sure why "performance" brake shoes should make the overall OD larger. Perhaps they are the wrong parts. I would not recommend leaving the adjusters out, these are used to adjust the brakes as the shoes wear. I also think that they are used as the anchor point and the hydraulic cylinder does the expansion of the shoes. Without the adjusters in place there is no solid anchor point. I think it is a very unsafe condition.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,575
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From: Puyallup, WA
The lower "adjuster" that you removed is much more than a "adjuster". It is also the lower anchor point for the brake shoes! Without it your rear brakes WILL NOT work correctly.
No wonder you have to bleed your brakes now, most likely the wheel cylinder brake cups/pistons came out wayyyyy to far.
If your brake shoes are indeed the correct ones, and the brake return springs are installed correctly and in good repair, the you have two choices, either the wheel cylinder(s) are frozen and will not allow the pistons to retract or the barking brake adjustment is to tight.
These brakes are extremly simple in their operation, but rust can do them in as things not only need to move correctly, but also when installing NEW parts, possibly move further (travel as in the case of the wheel cylinders) then they have in some time.
Good Luck! David
No wonder you have to bleed your brakes now, most likely the wheel cylinder brake cups/pistons came out wayyyyy to far.
If your brake shoes are indeed the correct ones, and the brake return springs are installed correctly and in good repair, the you have two choices, either the wheel cylinder(s) are frozen and will not allow the pistons to retract or the barking brake adjustment is to tight.
These brakes are extremly simple in their operation, but rust can do them in as things not only need to move correctly, but also when installing NEW parts, possibly move further (travel as in the case of the wheel cylinders) then they have in some time.
Good Luck! David
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i think i'll just carefully take it across the street to the brake shop tommorow and let someone else deal with it. shouldn't cost to much since i allready have the shoes and new springs..............................
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Minneapolis, MN
That sounds like a good idea. If you do not feel comfortable digging into the problem deeper on your own it is best left to a professional. espicially where your brakes are concerned. You are to be applauded for your effort, the most important thing about "going in" is knowing when to get out.
Have a great day and be very careful.
Have a great day and be very careful.