clatter sound
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
From: Miami, FL.
clatter sound
I'm posting this cause of another post (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=379016) where it was said that it may be just oil starvation.
Reringed/bearinged a '79 351W. Transferred Edelbrock 2181 Power Package and 7811 timing set from shot '84 351W. Oil pump from '79 seemed fine using a drill to test, so I used it.
This engine block, '79, looked so cherry that it seemed someone had gotten a rebuilt short block to put into the truck that this engine came out of.
I couldn't find a micrometer and had some time issues (had to get it back together for work). The old bearings looked better than any of the photos in the Haynes rebuild book so I used the '79 crank without checking it, except visually to compare to the book.
After driving it for a while after warm-up, I get what sounds like a chatter at any steady speed over about 1600 RPM. Let up on the gas, noise goes away, accelerate the noise goes away. Also, if I get on it a little, it will chatter right before shifting.
Is it possible that it's the lifters or an oil issue?
TIA,
Munrow
Reringed/bearinged a '79 351W. Transferred Edelbrock 2181 Power Package and 7811 timing set from shot '84 351W. Oil pump from '79 seemed fine using a drill to test, so I used it.
This engine block, '79, looked so cherry that it seemed someone had gotten a rebuilt short block to put into the truck that this engine came out of.
I couldn't find a micrometer and had some time issues (had to get it back together for work). The old bearings looked better than any of the photos in the Haynes rebuild book so I used the '79 crank without checking it, except visually to compare to the book.
After driving it for a while after warm-up, I get what sounds like a chatter at any steady speed over about 1600 RPM. Let up on the gas, noise goes away, accelerate the noise goes away. Also, if I get on it a little, it will chatter right before shifting.
Is it possible that it's the lifters or an oil issue?
TIA,
Munrow
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
well puting on a used oil pump probably wasnt the best idea. its cheap piece of mind ya know to just put a new one on there. how was the pick up screen? you could have a timing issue on your hands or the bottem end bearings are bad. whats your oil pressure look like with a mechanical gauge?
now the bearings you looked at were the ones on that same crank already? or are the bearings / crank from different motors.
now the bearings you looked at were the ones on that same crank already? or are the bearings / crank from different motors.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
From: Miami, FL.
The oil pump thing was because the engine is in a '86 van. Didn't want to go through the oil pan thing, and don't have resources to work on two engines at the same time. The screen looked fine but I cleaned it anyway.
Thought because of the condition of the engine, pump had been changed when the block was worked on (perfect .030 over, absolutely no ridge at tops of cylinders, pistons, after cleaning, looked brand new w/no looseness at connecting rod at all, stock cam looked perfect, crank journals looked new, etc).
Bearings I spoke of were on the '79 block. Looked next best thing to perfect. No scoring, didn't seem to be any wear at all. Changed them, used stock standard (no micrometer).
Haven't gotten a mechanical oil guage installed, yet. Don't know where to hook it up, and am leary of the plastic tubing.
Thought because of the condition of the engine, pump had been changed when the block was worked on (perfect .030 over, absolutely no ridge at tops of cylinders, pistons, after cleaning, looked brand new w/no looseness at connecting rod at all, stock cam looked perfect, crank journals looked new, etc).
Bearings I spoke of were on the '79 block. Looked next best thing to perfect. No scoring, didn't seem to be any wear at all. Changed them, used stock standard (no micrometer).
Haven't gotten a mechanical oil guage installed, yet. Don't know where to hook it up, and am leary of the plastic tubing.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
From: Miami, FL.
You mean remove the sending unit and connect the line for mech to that connection?
I'm already mentally ready to redo the crank/bearings, just waiting for the finances to improve. After seeing the above mentioned post, was hoping for some small miracle of a simpler fix.
On the bright side, after having the engine completely apart once, it's not so scarey thinking about doing it again. Also, though it may not be right, it ain't too shabby for my first time.
Thanks for the advice/info
Munrow
I'm already mentally ready to redo the crank/bearings, just waiting for the finances to improve. After seeing the above mentioned post, was hoping for some small miracle of a simpler fix.
On the bright side, after having the engine completely apart once, it's not so scarey thinking about doing it again. Also, though it may not be right, it ain't too shabby for my first time.
Thanks for the advice/info
Munrow
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
From: Miami, FL.
Just finished connecting a mechanical oil pressure guage to the oil sending unit connection on the block. According to the guage, I've got crap for pressure. Should I have tried to bleed the line or something to get any air out? Thinking that may cause a false reading due to the difference of air pressure and hydrolic pressure.
Munrow
Munrow
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
bleeding the line shouldnt be necessary.
so now you know what is needed. tear it all back down and do it right this time hehe.
have fun
so now you know what is needed. tear it all back down and do it right this time hehe.
have fun
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
From: Miami, FL.
Thanx. Looking forward to getting it right next time. No sarcasm intended.
In the mean time, hope I don't ruin any of the performance parts before I get around to it.
At least I got rid of the blow-by problem, and my oil still looks pretty clean after a few hundred miles. Used to look old after 300 miles...
Again, thanks for the advice/help,
Munrow
In the mean time, hope I don't ruin any of the performance parts before I get around to it.
At least I got rid of the blow-by problem, and my oil still looks pretty clean after a few hundred miles. Used to look old after 300 miles...
Again, thanks for the advice/help,
Munrow
Last edited by munrow; Jun 1, 2005 at 03:47 PM.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
From: Miami, FL.
I really am looking forward to the re-do. I too see it as a breeze. Didn't seem that bad the first time. Hardest part was mental preparation.
I'd really like to do it before I get any cylinder wear. Plan on going with at least chrome rings next time. From what I've read, honing needs to be rougher for chrome, more so for moly.
Too many things I didn't know the first time (different type rings, bearings, what rear seal, etc). Next time, hopefully, I won't look like such a moron at the parts store.
Munrow
I'd really like to do it before I get any cylinder wear. Plan on going with at least chrome rings next time. From what I've read, honing needs to be rougher for chrome, more so for moly.
Too many things I didn't know the first time (different type rings, bearings, what rear seal, etc). Next time, hopefully, I won't look like such a moron at the parts store.
Munrow
Last edited by munrow; Jun 1, 2005 at 03:57 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
munrow
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
5
Jun 20, 2005 09:12 AM
munrow
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
5
May 16, 2005 04:12 PM
munrow
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
20
Apr 29, 2005 02:45 AM