Question about carburator
I have a 1979 E150 (300) with a later overdrive manual trans. I easily get 18 mpg... I drive like a granny. A lot of guys in this forum wish they got 14mpg with their 4x4 rigs.
If my carbureted 300 had been sitting for a week I give it one and one half pump of the gas peddle and turn the key. Starts and runs everytime. If the engine is warm or recently run it takes only 1/4 pedal and starts.
Just finished rebuilding mine today, didn't notice anything in it that wears out other than the replacement parts found in the kit.
I would get a kit and follow the directions to a tee, float measurments and all adjustments for air and gas flow.
One of the biggesst things I believe is a throurough cleaning it out with a couple cans of carburetor cleaner, then once thats done, put the new kit in as the directions say, beats the heck out of buying a new carb in my book.
I checked the price for a double barrel today to replace the single barrel I have on and they wanted 500 bucks, bs to that.
After I rebuilt it and put it on it fired right up and runs smooth, no great mechanic here, just followed the directions in the kit.
If it gets bad it can cause air to be sucked into the carb through the elongated holes causing a lean condition. Really bad on computer controled models cause the computer richens the mix to compensate and sucks your gas dry.
They sell "shims" (can't think of what they are really called at the moment) that you can drill the holes bigger into the throttle body and put these "shims" into the holes so they are the right size again.
If the holes are too wallowed out, you have to replace the throttle body, and it's easier to buy a whole new carb than trying that.


