hey all! i found a truck just a few minutes from my house and i wanted to see what you all thought. its a 1993 f-250. its got the 351W with an automatic tranny (im guessing a C6?). he's got about 7" of lift on it (no body lifts ) and a solid axle swap. im pretty sure its a D60, its got 8 lugs and all but i think they also made D44 with 8 lugs, right? he's got it painted red, pretty cheap paint job. my dad thinks its to cover up the rust but i would think it would still show through. there is a little rust at the bottom of the doors, but its not too bad.

ok, so now to the bad stuff. this thing has blocks, and alot of them at that. there are the smaller, 2 inch blocks in back that im pretty sure are stock then about a 4" block stacked on top of those. then up front its got 2-3" blocks!

then the steering linkage is just bad. its got a block connecting the steering together. (if you can remember a while ago cody posted these pics out of the "Offroad Adventures" mag https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...=superman+jeep) this truck has the same steering except its block is a little wider.
so there are some things i would want to do to the truck but the guy's asking $4000 obo. what do you all think? it says its got 65,000 miles but i think its an old odometer so i could be 160 or 260. thanks for the input!

adam

 

I think $4000 sounds a bit steep for a truck that is showing signs of rust, cheap paint job, possibly 160,000 miles, and is about 12 or 13 years old, depending on when it was actually built from the factory... IMO I would look around.

 

It has an E4OD, not a C6. I know D60's came on 250+^ diesel 4x4's then, mine has one, but Im not sure on hte gassers.
No body lift, good. Blocks, next closest thing to satan.

So youre looking at an EFI 351W, E4OD, D60, 10.25" all bolted on a frame with poorly painted metal on top of that...Sounds pretty OK-ish to me...BUT
You will have to loose those blocks and rework the steering.

The links within hte thread that you linked dont work anymore...

 

stacked blocks in the rear are bad enough, but blocks period in the front(let alone stacked blocks) are a deathwish.....sounds like someone had no clue what they were doing.......i wouldnt touch that truck with a 20 foot chain!!!

 

Well by the looks of it if he gets it and takes it offroad he might want to carry a twenty foot chain, and a tractor. I'd keep lookin, im sure you can find something better for 4000 bucks.

 

It really only has a 3" lift, by the way. the 4" blocks are factory 4x4 additions... they dont really qualify for "lift"

So what your really starting out with is a poorly painted, stock-height truck with a mid-life to well-aged 351W, an E4OD that will break when you offroad, and two good axles.

You decide. I think it would be one hell of a project, depending on hte wheelbase. If its a 4 door-longbed, well, then youre gonna need one hell of a lift and some big meats if youre concerned in hte least about clearance issues

Edit: BTW, 4000 is TOO MUCH FOR THAT

 

Actually, being it's a 250, it will have 2" factory blocks, and it could be a C6 in there, but, it's more likley an E4OD. It could be a 44HD in the front, but, hope it's a 60.

 

no, this truck first had the TTB and he swapped it out for a solid front end. from what ive heard the 10.25's dont have a drain plug on the diff cover. the rear end on this one does so i dont think its a 10.25

no, this truck does have a lift. 82F100SWB had it right. 2" stock blocks with 4"ers stacked on top. but the lift isnt all blocks! im not sure about all new springs but i know that there is an add-a-leaf in back. i think im gonna go drive it sometime to see whats up.

adam

 

If you take it for a test drive on the street, you better not brake to hard or agressivly corner it. Those front blocks will spit out quicker than you could shake a stick at them. Then the axle would jam itself under the truck posibbly causing it to flip end over. I've seen the outcome of running front blocks and it ain't pretty. Sounds like a $4000 basket case that should be avoided at all costs. If the guy who built it was dumb enough/cheap enough to put blocks under the front, the rest of the truck is probably full of other mechanical debogles.

 

on the later model F250's a lot of times the strelings are semi float which are about as strong as Ford's 8.8". anyways, if the drain is in the cover its a D60 rear. with that being said I can almost garauntee you the front axle is a D44. much cheaper and they were 8lugs. easiest way to tell the difference is to look at the hubs.... if they neck up (get bigger) then its the the 60, if the hubs stay straight all the way into the wheel then its a 44

and it's prolly the E4OD, they pretty much just used the C6's behind the big blocks into the 90's model trucks. not too many behind the small blocks but there are some

-cutts-

 

I never said it wasnt lifted. I assumed that the gasser 4x4's were lifted the same as diesel 4x4's in 1993. I have 4" blocks, factory. What I was saying was if you included those factory 2" blocks in hte 7" of lift, then its really a 5" lift.

So if you have 2" blocks w/ 4" blosks ontop of that and end up with a 7" lift, that means that (assuming youre counting hte 2" blocks in hte lift total) then that means you have a 1" add-a-leaf. However, if you are not counting those 2" blocks in hte lift, you have a 3" spring kit...
How do you know its 7" of lift?

I have a 10.25" in my rear and I have a drain plug...

Edit: I never knew that cutts, I just assumed it was a sterling full-float...

 

if you have a sterling with a drain plug in the cover then you either have a 60 and think its a sterling or you/someone bought/made an aftermarket cover with a plug in the cover. none came with plugs from the factory

-cutts-

 

It almost sounds as though a newer body was swapped onto an older frame of sorts.

But that aside i would try to get him down in price by at least 500 bucks if not more.

 

I'm not sure what you are looking for in a truck, daily driver, bogger, etc. If your wanting a bogger you can probably pick up a F350 for a fairly reasonable price in that year range, standard cab that is.

 

i dont know of very many axles which have a drain plug, other than toyota...now most have a fill plug....danas are udually on the cover, visteon(ford 8.8, 9, and 9.75, and 10.25/10.5's) all have them on the front side of the pumkin. There might be a front 60 in front of that hting...since it is a driect bolt in. i really hope noone spent the time to pu a solid 44 in the front of that thing.

the rear should be a 10.25, it will be semi float if its one of the lighter 250's and it had the 44hd ttb front....but i thought they quit doing that in the late 80's? it mos tliely has a 10.25 ff rear, and came with a ttb dana 50 front, and a dana 60 front out of an f350 is a very easy swap.

I would offer him like 2500 if it has a ff rear, and a 60 front. take the blocks out of the front and rear, and go from there

this is what a sterling ff looks like https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=75904&width=2

get us some pics of this thing....if the rear does have a cover i would imgaine he swapped in a dana 60(hope the hell not) or a dana 70 out of something else