Starter questions
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Texas
Starter questions
When I turn my key with a fully charged battery, the starter sticks, like it wasn't getting enough amps. I'm not done checking the rest of the electric system yet, but in an effort to track down parts, I tried to find a starter.
I find listings for mid 70's fords with 390s, but mine is a 66 with a 352. Are these compatable?
I find listings for mid 70's fords with 390s, but mine is a 66 with a 352. Are these compatable?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Hey Barry, I know yo head is big from providing all the correct part numbers, but someone is lying to you. LOL
The FE uses a 3 bolt starter, while the 289, 302, & the W all use a 2 bolt.
John
The FE uses a 3 bolt starter, while the 289, 302, & the W all use a 2 bolt.
John
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,813
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From: Connecticut
Sorry, my mistake on the 289 starter. It's been a while since I've done one and forgot. See what happens when you reach middle age? Fog sets in. I have to stick a pin in every once in a while to blow the fog out! I should have remembered that one as I just re-gasketed my 351W in my 89 and had to take the starter out!
Shame on me! 50 lashes with a wet noodle..............
Barry
Shame on me! 50 lashes with a wet noodle..............
Barry
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,222
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From: East Central Florida
In Some cases a Y Block starter can be used also, BUT they are not very torquey.
So I'd stick with Johns reply because an FE is an FE is AN FE Is AN FE Engine. . . . As long as we're sticking to Pass' car & up thru medium Duty Trucks Once into medium heavy trucks (F500 & Up) things may not interchange due to larger flywheels different bellhousing sizes et al.
So the early to mid 70's 390 should be a 3 bolt mounting and fit just fine. Also with the ones I mention, it does not matter whether it is A/T or Manul Shift application.
If the company you deal with has options beyond 390 CID, say 401-406-407-410-427 & 428 get one of them as they tend to be capable of more torque. If we're talking rebuilt or remanufactured everything there has probably been all comingled & mixed up because of the universiality of the FE Starters themselves. . .
FBp
So I'd stick with Johns reply because an FE is an FE is AN FE Is AN FE Engine. . . . As long as we're sticking to Pass' car & up thru medium Duty Trucks Once into medium heavy trucks (F500 & Up) things may not interchange due to larger flywheels different bellhousing sizes et al.
So the early to mid 70's 390 should be a 3 bolt mounting and fit just fine. Also with the ones I mention, it does not matter whether it is A/T or Manul Shift application.
If the company you deal with has options beyond 390 CID, say 401-406-407-410-427 & 428 get one of them as they tend to be capable of more torque. If we're talking rebuilt or remanufactured everything there has probably been all comingled & mixed up because of the universiality of the FE Starters themselves. . .
FBp
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Sun River St. George
It may be the starter, but I'd look for a cheaper solution first. Usually the battery cables and the starter cable need to be replaced on these old trucks. I always replace the starter relay, these work hard and are really cheap. So, after you have eliminated the cheap stuff, core the starter.
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From: Texas
Thanks all for the advice. With this information I hit the local parts shop and picked up one from a 75, along with a new relay, and all the wiring from battery to the starter.
Turns out, the starter was fine, though I am glad I had a new one handy. I've gotten into too many of these projects were I had to make 10 trips to the part store. Its easier to buy it all, and return what you don't need.
As it happens, the battery to relay wire had internal breaks, the connector was loose, the relay was half burned up, and wouldn't work after I removed it. the wire from the relay to the starter looked fine, but had 100 ohms resistance, and wouldn't pass enough currant, and the connector was lose on the starter. Not to mention that the starter control wire to the relay was corroded up and making bad contact.
.
Turns out, the starter was fine, though I am glad I had a new one handy. I've gotten into too many of these projects were I had to make 10 trips to the part store. Its easier to buy it all, and return what you don't need.
As it happens, the battery to relay wire had internal breaks, the connector was loose, the relay was half burned up, and wouldn't work after I removed it. the wire from the relay to the starter looked fine, but had 100 ohms resistance, and wouldn't pass enough currant, and the connector was lose on the starter. Not to mention that the starter control wire to the relay was corroded up and making bad contact.
.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Southern Alberta
I like the idea of buying everything at the parts store and then returning what you don't need, as I am definitely a ten trips guy. Or, I have to drive to every store in 3 counties around, then end up buying it off ebay, because I can't find the most common stovebolt, anywhere 
However, what would probably happen to me is: immediately upon returning the starter to the store, I would stop at a gas station on my way home and the starter would pack it in.
However, what would probably happen to me is: immediately upon returning the starter to the store, I would stop at a gas station on my way home and the starter would pack it in.