Ok So I go to the local pic-n-pull and spend about an hour removing both disc brake assemblies from what they claim was an 79 F-150. I removed the whole thing I beams, supports, shocks, spindles, rotors, and calipers. I get to the check out and I might as well have bought the whole truck. They wanted $275.00. I remember that most everyone that has done the swap only needed from the king pin out. So I ask how much if I remove all the stuff I didn't want, they still wanted $150.00. I went to another junk yard and they wanted alot more.

Now this is not going to be a daily driver but I would still like to do the upgrade.

I have seen people who have done this seem to be paying a lot less for more, how are you guys getting these deals? There are only a couple of yards around here so I think that they are jacking the prices, what do you guys think?

I was also not 100% sure that the 79 parts would work. When is the cut off point for the twin I beems we can use on the 65?

Thanks

jd

 

JD: '79 is good, and it is the last year that will fit. I think they are overcharging you, but then, California does have high costs on everything, and they have to pay the light bill and the mortgage too. Still, that seems high.
Your best bet would be to find a whole truck wrecked or no motor/trans and strip it out.
Failing that, if you are going to do the king pin swap instead of the entire front end swap, the only parts you absolutely have to get at a boneyard are the spindles and the backing plates. That's all.
Everything else can be had at Napa or AutoZone, etc.
If possible, I would also get the parts which mount directly to the spindles. This includes the bearing retainer and nut, as well as the bolt, spring and retainer for each caliper. Even so, those are replaceable.

If you are doing power brakes, then the must have part is the lever-action setup between the pedal and the booster.

In fact, everything else SHOULD be replaced. Used bearings, tie rods, shocks, seals etc are a waste of money. Only get calipers and boosters to use as cores - so check the core cost ahead of time to see which costs more, to buy the old one or just pay the core charge.
As for the entire front end swap, only do it if you have seen the truck in it's fully assembled state, that the stance is correct, and are very sure that the front end isn't bent up. Bone yard fork lifts can and do bend I-beams.

Good luck, and I hope this helps.

 

JD, What do you expect to pay man? I am not in step with John da picker here either, by the time you go buying all of the new brake lines, master cylinder. booster, porp. valve, steering gear, column new, you'll have more than $500.00 in it.

I would put on a new reman master cylinder, and pads, but I'd probably move most of the other parts over.

The only way that I know to come out is to buy the donor truck and sell parts off of it. My ps & pdb upgrade is zero in money because I sold beds, doors, cabs an such that I didn't need.

Is just my OPINION, but ya need to swallow hard, apologise, and pay the man. I am in no way trying to imply that you can't get the parts cheaper, but I don't think the man is out of line. There has been a fellow with a running ad for several years in a local shopper selling that upgrade for $250.00.

John

 

I call for parts for insurance claim work every day. I can typically buy the entire suspension (one side) for most vehicles for $125-150. So, the price you were quoted isn't horrendous. However, I'm working with late model stuff most of the time. Old, crusty junk Ford truck parts aren't worth as much. I bought my entire front end setup (beams 'n all) for around $125, but then I also buy stuff from that yard every week for my job, so I got a favor (I didn't have to pull the stuff myself either).

With the proliferation of U-Pull-It yards these days it is easy and cheap to buy all the needed parts for even less than I did, if you do the grunt work. But, if you don't have these types of places near you, then you are at the mercy of the local market.

I agree, buying and stripping a truck is a great way to get your parts for free like John did but you have to have a place to do the work and not mind having an eyesore around for a couple weeks.

 

I guess I may have to bite the bullet, I had read some of the other threads and kept reading that people were paying less than $100.00 for alot more. Our local pick-n-pull charges for each item independantly so the bill goes way up. I tried to tell them it is concidered one front axel but they want to charge it up as if it were two. I like the idea of a donnor truck but I live in a neihborhood with not a lot of room and snobby neihbors who will complain about how many cars I have now. I am thinking about moving closer to my job so may have to wait until than.

For now I think I will just install a split all drum master cylinder for safety and maybe a booster. My grandfather and father pulled and carried a lot of heavy loads with this truck with the drums so I know they will stop just fine with those upgrades.

Thanks guys

jd

 

The fellows that post about $100 deals are happy with themselves. I paid $250 -- there are lots of fellows like me too, but we don't brag that we paid $250. There, you feel better!!!!!

Go back and make sure they throw in the power brake booster AND AND AND AND the prop valve for $275. Or walk. Or better yet, go re-install the stuff back on the truck you took it off of. This may be one of those places that like to have suckers remove stuff for them and then sell to someone else, after the first guy gets hit with inflated prices. Its a win win for the place -- if you pay the price, great. If you walk, they sell to someone else and charge that fellow for the work you did.

 

That price was only for the parts from the king pins out. I was planning on returning for the prop valve later after I completely overhauled the disc with new pads and turned rotors and rebuilt calipers. I was also planning on buying the booster new. I think that is part of my reluctance I plan on making everything like new and they don't even warrinty them if they are not turnable. I would not feel comfortable putting on junkyard parts when my familys and my life is in the cab. I think I might just buy all new parts, part by part that way I will have peace of mind.

I always believe you get what you pay for.

jd

 

OK, so not to brag....but ironically I spent yesterday morning
at the (somewhat) local junk yard. $100 for the whole works,
arms spindles linkage, everything from a '78. And that's in Northern
Pesos....oh and a mint seat from a '93 for $60 bucks just to top
it off. But if it makes anyone feel better, I spent an hour looking
for a decent seat, another hour trying to get the rusted bolts out.
Then when I went back to get another tool from my (other) truck,
I noticed I had parked right beside a wrecked '93 F150....peeked
inside, it still had the seat with one of those saddle covers on it.
Peeled that back and the nice dark grey upholstery looked like new....
Took about 5 minutes to get that seat out.....but.....it was $60
instead of the $40 he wanted for the first one.....but of course I'm
not gloating.....

 

I am going to try some of the yards in the next couple of towns to see if I can find at least the spindles the rest I will probably buy new.

Thanks all.

jd

 

If going with power brakes, the linkage is not available new, as far as I know. Prop valves are not easy to come by either, mpbrakes.com has for about $100. Keep that all in mind. Agreed that master cylinder, booster, and calipers are only useful as cores, but the core charge for just the power boster is something like $70. Caliper core charges are pretty low and if the junk yard wants more than $10 or so, then let them keep them.

 

costme $200 with the booster. The rotors are junk and the calipers i will not use. Anything older then 90's is hard to find now with scrap at a 60 year high.
Heres a list of what i got for my $200

Both I beams, Ones bent!
Both spindles
Two junk rotor
two junk calipers
Prop valve
Vacuum booster
Brake pedal and rod.

I plan on using my 65 beams new rotors and calipers hose ect as soon as i colect all the parts. I tow with my 65 so that why i'd not use the calipers. I what no problems after the swap.

44dwarf