What is a MAF and how do I check the injectors. I put the new plug wires on and it seems to run a little better I do have one cylinder seeping oil in it so I put a none fowler on that plug when I test drove the van last it would accelerate fine but as soon as it hit 4th gear it runs real rough if I let off the fuel just a little bit it will smooth out for a moment and then get real rough again. when I pulled the codes again I am now getting randume multible cylinder missfire.

 

It's possible that you really *do* have a faulty ECM. Does happen. We changed one just last week (ECM was lighting SES for a faulty MAF code, but MAF checked fine on scope; replaced ECM, problem gone.).

Depending on some things (you will definitely want to pull the Ford part number off yours first!), you can buy a used one for as little as $25 + shipping, via http://www.car-part.com . Since you've spent so much already, and are getting codes that are directly associated with the camshaft position sensor (ie misfire, sensed via the timing of the crankshaft and/or camshaft position sensor(s)), parts-swapping in a different ECM to see if the symptom changes might be your cheapest next step.

If the 97's ECM's location is like my 91's, you can change it in 20 minutes if you're reasonably flexible and have a 24" extension to remove the 10mm head bolt for the connector (on firewall above battery/brake reservoir). Hardest part is you need two people to put that bolt back in (in my experience) or very careful positioning. Not brain surgery, however.

Regards,
Al S.

 

Thanks before I go that route let me throw this out. with both new ignition coils I would pull the code for multiple cylinder misfire. I put the original coil back in and I just show the #2 and #4 cylinder misfire I cleared the code a couple times and the codes for the #2and #4 is the only codes that come back now. The other two coils where after market ie. kragen. do think I just might need to get a ford factor ignition coil or do think I should go and change the computer at this point.
Gary

 

It could be the aftermarket parts. I have always had issues with store brand parts that deal with ignition, so I would stick with motorcraft.

As asavage said, I would look into picking up a used PCM. If it is not the issue, you can have it for backup for future problems.

 

OEM parts are almost always the best choice. They fit and it's damned rare for an OEM part to be bad out of the box, unlike a part you get from Autozone where it's been returned a couple of times before you got it.

Yeah, a spare ECM is nice to have around, if only to eliminate that nagging feeling you get that it's bad . . .

 

Ok guys I will let you know what happens It may take a week or two.
Thanks

 

Can anyone discribe what the ecm looks like or send me a diagram. It makes mention of it in the haynes book but it does not say where it is or show what it loooks like. I do see where a bunch of wires plug into a unit on the firewall its about 1 inches thick by 4 inches long and right below that is another unit that is 2inches thick by 4 inches long a groupe of wires branch off that second unit and plugs into a third unit attached to the side wall 1 inchx 4inches.

 

I can't help much on a '97. On my '89 & '90 3.0l, the topmost 1"x4" unit is the ECM. One 10mm head bolt (on the engine side of the firewall) retains the connector to the ECM. Use a very long extension on a socket to easily remove the screw. Also, when you put that connector back on, make sure it's clean. I dress the contacts with some silicone oil (I use Tri-Flow) to prevent corrosion and reduce assembly force required.

Underneath the dash, you have to remove one plastic clip that holds the ECM to a metal "shelf" that it sits upon. There is a single Phillips-head screw holding that clip down. You have to lay on your back under the dash to get at that one. Use a sharp No. 2 Phillips screwdrive, not a cheap or dull one.

 

Thanks asavage. That was it. one bolt to take the plug off and two screws one on each side of the computer remove plastic cover from eng. side and computer side right out. I did not have to go under the dash. 5min. job. now I will see if I can hunt down a used one.

 

I guess Ford improved the accessibility of the late PCMs. Good for you!

 

Ok guys its almost time to use this van for target practice. I put in a reman. ecm and there was no differance in the way the van runs it is still giving me the code for the #2 and #4 cylinder missfire. I had our wrench man from work take it for a drive and he says it sounds and feels like a vaccume leak. But I dont know why that would give the codes it is giving me. I do have spark going to both plugs. any other ideas?

 

I went through a lot of the misfire symptoms with my 92 and it turned out to be a ehad gasket issue. I'd be tempted to check compression on the left bank (to start) and see if the middle one (#2) is noticeably lower. When I pulled the heads and had them redone (milled, valves, seats, guides, the works) the misfire went away. I never knew which ones were not firing fight.

 

You said that a lot more nicely than I would have.

 

Ok guys I know its been a long time but I had to park the van for awhile I was getting to frustrated. I finaly whent back and rechecked everything I have done to make sure I did not leave anything not hooked up. I then started to study my hanes book to see if there could be somthing I missed. In the 4.0 section it said the 4.0 eng. only had the crankshaft position sensor I have a 3.0 but in looking at my setup I to had that sensor. so I replaced it and now no more codes. thats the good news. the bad news is my van still is not running right. it startes up fine Im getting spark to all cyliders it has plenty of power on takeoff. it goes thru 1st 2nd and 3rd fine when it hitts drive and overdrive it shacks and spudders. it feels like a standered tranny being bogged down . what am I missing????????????????

 

any PCM codes, is the engine ignition missing?
may be torque converter (auto transx) shudder as it changes from high torque amplification mode to dircet drive and lockup mode. there is a lockup clutch in converter.
when was auto tranx fluid changed last, what condition is the fluid in, cherry red and odorless or brown dirty with burnt odor?