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My wife's 91 4.0's A/C works OK most of the time...not really that cold, but before we bought it, the entire system was supposedly overhauled...but it does work, and cools the behemoth down. However, the otherday, we were driving around, and with the A/C running, the van sounded like a deisel - clattering away...and the van started to run really hot with the A/C turned on, whether or not we were moving or stopped. Turned off the A/C, and the noise abated, and the temp dropped almost immediately...
The outside temp was approaching 101 degrees. The next day, it wasn;'t as hot, and running the A/C did NOT result in the same symptoms...
I'm not sure but that sound could have been the A/C clutch slipping as for the engine temp skyrocketing it could be that your fan clutch isn't functioning properly and not efficiently cooling the condenser which heats up while the A/C is in use.
This will also cause the engine to run hotter because the condenser is giving off heat.
Last edited by krankshaft; May 26, 2005 at 12:33 PM.
Overhauled? Could you be more speciefic? Switched to R-134a? New compressor?
I personally think the sound you hear are the bearings in the Compressor itself going out. If they are going out it will cause the belt to slip and bog down the engine causing it to warm up more.
Simple test, open the hood, start the engine, turn on the A/C and go listen to the compressor. If the clattering is comming from it, I would say your compresor is toast and time to replace. Not too tuff, I replaced the whole a/c system in my SHO and it was a lot easier than I thought, Just be careful of the freon, that will freeze your fingers off. (wear gloves.)
If it is not R-134a, you can switch it over failry cheaply yourself. I bought a kit from walmart for about $38 which included new plug ins, gauge, and Freon. Plus I picked up a extra couple cans for $6 each.
Converting ot R-134a is harder than they would lead you to believe. All traces of the R-12, and the R-12 oil must be removed. The R-12 will react with the PAG oil, and cause it to break down. The result can be compressor failure, O-ring failure, and virtually any other component can be at risk. There is a new coolant that can be mixed with, and works better than R-12. I can't remember what it is called, but you do need a license to install it, as it is similar to R-12. It has been determined in labs, that the new coolant is more stable when exposed to UV light, thus reduceing its likelyhood of causeing O-zone damage.
Converting ot R-134a is harder than they would lead you to believe. All traces of the R-12, and the R-12 oil must be removed. The R-12 will react with the PAG oil, and cause it to break down. The result can be compressor failure, O-ring failure, and virtually any other component can be at risk. There is a new coolant that can be mixed with, and works better than R-12. I can't remember what it is called, but you do need a license to install it, as it is similar to R-12. It has been determined in labs, that the new coolant is more stable when exposed to UV light, thus reduceing its likelyhood of causeing O-zone damage.
Don't know if I can agree with the above.....I have converted seven different vehicles in my family, 2 GM and 5 Ford products including 2 Aerostar vans. I have always used the same kit and procedure. Take it to my mechanic to remove the R12 and pull a vaccum on the system. Add a can of "conditioner" that comes with the kit. This supposedly does something to the rubber components (O rings) and any remaining R12. Then load the system with R134. None of them have failed and one of the 'Stars is going on 5 and a half years after conversion.
Is there a way to check for leaks in the hoses of these units. I converted my Aero about 2 years ago to no avail. But it didn't work before the conversion. I am sure there is a leak somewhere. The compressor makes no noise of any kind.
Is there a way to check for leaks in the hoses of these units. I converted my Aero about 2 years ago to no avail. But it didn't work before the conversion. I am sure there is a leak somewhere. The compressor makes no noise of any kind.
You can buy a kit at walmart that consists of a can with glow die, special glasses and a special light, $15 roughly. Put the stuff in and see if you can trace the leak.
khantyranitar, You are right about the PAG oil, but now days mostl R-134a oil is ESTER oil which is compatible. My father-in-law has done thousands of conversions in his shop without replacing all the components and has had no problems what so ever. As for the other type of refrig (R-24 I think), it is not EPA or DOT approved for autos so use at your own risk. R-12 and R-134a are the only two refrigs approved for autos.
Well, we don't have all the specs on what was replaced...we know the compressor was replaced at one point about 1-2 years before we bought it a year ago...
the blower motor for the rear output was replaced - and at the same time, they did something to screw up the fan control in the rear control panel...they wired it directly in, so now, we can turn on the rear fans, with the van off, and no keys in it, from the front control panel only...
Refresh my memory on how to test the fan clutch? When turning the fan, should the fan move freely when cold, or not? I can never remember...these vans are the first vehichles I've had with a fan clutch in a LONG time...
Maybe replace the fan and clutch with a flex-fan unit, and a spacer? anyone done that?
Are you talking about Freeze-12? It will work with R-12 and you don't have to change anything.
You also Don't need a license to install it. You can go to any Auto Parts Store that sells it and buy it right off the shelf.
Runs around $6.99 a can.
You are looking at a Freeze-12 Freon KIT, that is designed to recharge 1 Car. THERE IS NO EPA CERTIFICATE NEEDED TO PURCHASE. This kit will work in ALL R-12 SYSTEMS.
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