I have started collecting bits for another truck, as a money earner to replenish the bank account after building the 48

I can get either a 48 or 54 cab at a reasonable price, the 54 is heaps better condition.

I can get a 48 F2 frame, but no leads on a 53-55 frame (real hard to find in Australia)

How different are an F1 and F100 frame ??

This will be rodded with Jag front, 9" on leaves, 351C/FMX etc

So ignore differences in suspension etc

I can swap the body mounts off of the F600 chassis from the 54

So what are the major difference in the basic frame?

Is this do able? or should I just do another F1 ??

 

The 54 Frame is a few inches wider. That could have an effect on the cab/bed mounts.

The F1 Frame is shorter than the F2/3 Frame. To make a F2/3 Frame work as a F1 Frame it must be cut in two places.

 

Thanks. New someone would know.

I just scored a set of F-4 front sheet metal this evening so I guess that makes my mind up.......I'm building another 48

My current F-1 project used an F-4 frame, which I shortened to F-1 so I can do that again.

I think I will grab both the 48 and 54 cabs as I may stumble on the wider chassis some time

What years used the wider frame. I know 53-56 are the same (ignoring rear springs which I wont use), but is the same basic frame used in 57 and onwards ? Until when ? I think I remember someone saying that all frames are the same basic dimensions through to 66......is that true ???

 

The rear width is the same up to '72 at 34". The 48-52 trucks were 32" at the front. I don't know when they changed the front from 32" to 34". I know our '65 has a 34" frame.

 

I'm thinking about putting a 53 or 54 cab and bed on a 78 short frame. Would like to hear from anyone who has accomplished this. Any suggestions appreciated. Roger van Hoy, Washougal, WA

 

The 78 will be harder to slam if you are planning to go that route but if you do things just right, your finished truck will be about the same height as a stock 53-54. Three inch dropped I-beams are available to lower it a little but you need to get the wheels further under the fenders to use them. The front tract width of the ’78 is 3-4” wider than the 53-55 but the front tract can be reduced a little with positive offset or narrower rims. Otherwise your tires will be almost even with the outside edge of your front fenders.

Another problem might be the steering sector on the 78, which will be slightly to the left of the stock steering box location on the older frame. Your front cab mounts will have to be fabricated but the running board brackets as well as rear body mounts can be used from the 53-55. A stock 53-55 is a 110”wheelbase so you may have to adjust the 78’s length accordingly and if you try to center the front wheels in the fender openings, you need to also figure that into your equation.

In good conscience I must tell you that doing the full frame swap is not the “preferred” route to better handling. The overwhelming majority who change suspensions, will opt for the front clip method for improving the ride and handling characteristics of our old trucks. This not only will give you more options in lowering your truck but it will also be a quicker and easier swap.

 

Thanx for the info. I'm not wanting to lower, I have a good '78 frame and running gear I inherited from my uncle, 70K miles, cab and bed are shot.

Anyone want to write me privately? Just joined and apparently I need a certain number of e-mails before I can answer classifieds and such. Roger van Hoy, Washougal, WA

 

I thought it was based on a certain # of posts, 10 maybe? before all the extra features open up like search and such, not emails???

 

Weell, if that's it I'll just be posting away. My main problem is there's a guy in Oregon who's selling '56 cab and bed parts, but I can't answer his ad. Saysz it's to avoid spammers. The only spam I use is the kind you eat out of a can.

My e-mail is vanhilla@pacifier.com. If the seller sees this or anyone can pass it on I'd appreciate it.

--Roger van Hoy, Washougal, WA