Need advice from the Bronco Gurus
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Seattle
Need advice from the Bronco Gurus
Hi Guys!
I've been looking for a full size Bronco for my kid, and believe I have come across a pretty good deal:
1990, 4X4, 351ci/120k, auto, flawless original paint, good interior, well maintained.
It appears to run and drive fine. The vehical is owned by an older retired guy who is the second owner. I have negotiated a price of $3k.
What do ya all think? I'm going to test drive it again tomorrow. What do I need to look for? Your thoughts please.
I've been looking for a full size Bronco for my kid, and believe I have come across a pretty good deal:
1990, 4X4, 351ci/120k, auto, flawless original paint, good interior, well maintained.
It appears to run and drive fine. The vehical is owned by an older retired guy who is the second owner. I have negotiated a price of $3k.
What do ya all think? I'm going to test drive it again tomorrow. What do I need to look for? Your thoughts please.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 351
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From: Richfield MN
You cant buy much for 3 grand anymore,a bronco is a good truck for a kid to start out in.
If its not rusty I say buy it.
But I come from the land of rust.
Check bottom of tailgate for rust and how window is working.
Check front end out good balljoints ect.
Look close for coolant leaks under the front.
Try to find out if trans has been serviced if its a auto.
Good Luck !
If its not rusty I say buy it.
But I come from the land of rust.
Check bottom of tailgate for rust and how window is working.
Check front end out good balljoints ect.
Look close for coolant leaks under the front.
Try to find out if trans has been serviced if its a auto.
Good Luck !
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 240
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From: Columbia MO
You have a good start MMBF dont forget to look at the oil dip stick is the oil very clean? look at the radiator is it bright green? What does the top of the battery look like along with the cables. can you here any holes in the exhaust when you plug the tail pipe with a rag? or does the engin bog down like it should with a plugged tail pipe?
I 'm not trying to scare you off from buying the truck just know what you are buying thats all. for 3,000 it sounds pretty good , what did he start asking for the truck?
good luck and happy wrenching
I 'm not trying to scare you off from buying the truck just know what you are buying thats all. for 3,000 it sounds pretty good , what did he start asking for the truck?
good luck and happy wrenching
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Posting Guru
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From: Seattle
You know, you guys are ALRIGHT. I don't care WHAT those Chevy Blazer guys say about ya! LOL
Thanks!
EDIT:
Grogtronics,
Starting price was $3500. He put it up for sale just yesterday.
Thanks!
EDIT:
Grogtronics,
Starting price was $3500. He put it up for sale just yesterday.
Last edited by RocketScience; May 20, 2005 at 11:39 PM.
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From: N. Gwinnett Co. Georgia
Check the 4x4 operation several times, your son will want to use the feature soon enough. Is it a push button actuated system or a lever on the floor. The E4od in it's early iterations had some issues that were corrected by '94. Look under the oil filler cap for any whitish residue that would indicate moisture in the oil galley and check the oil appearance and level on the dipstick. Look under the air filter and see if any oil is present, a sign of blow-by. Check the steering system and brakes for component condition and operation. Check the operation of the rear window per MMBF. Look at the body carefully for any sign of rust, MMBF again. If you can, jack the front end and check the ball joints/bushings etc.-Well worth the time spent. It will be a great starter truck. Did the same for my nephew with a '94 and it's teaching him some maintenance lessons and the ability to be self sufficient with a vehicle you can work on.
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From: Longview, TX
Two years ago I bought a 94/351 152K Eddie Bauer single owner all highway miles from a sales lady. I paid $5,600 and think I got the deal of a lifetime. With the exception of front end work and A/C hoses I have done all the recent replacement of coolant hoses, heater core and found vacuum hose leaks myself. This site has lots of help on tailgate rust if just the paint is bubbling and no holes. Tailgate rust is quite common. Clunk at stop sign may just be a slip joint needing grease. Great vehicle. Your Ford dealer will check the VIN number for outstanding recalls. The previous owner had a transmission upgrade after a year covered by warranty. Other than regular stuff she also replaced the radiator, battery cables and serviced automatic hubs. At 169K I trust it to go anywhere.
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From: Gateway to the West
Before you seal the deal, take a moment to open the airbox and lift the filter. Older 351C's and 302's are known to show signs of wear and excessive blowby from dying rings and seals by depositing inordinate amounts of motor oil in the airbox UNDER the filter. The "fix" for this condition is usually a complete engine overhaul. Definitely check the operation of the transfer case several times especially if it is an electronically shifted T-case. The rust issues are typical as have been mentioned. Tailgates and rear wheel archs rust from the INSIDE out so you will usually see paint bubbles BEOFRE you actually see rust in these three areas. Otherwise the deal looks sound to me. Check the RED LINK in my signature for more common issues with the full-size Bronco and links to additional information.
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Originally Posted by greystreak92
Before you seal the deal, take a moment to open the airbox and lift the filter. Older 351C's and 302's are known to show signs of wear and excessive blowby from dying rings and seals by depositing inordinate amounts of motor oil in the airbox UNDER the filter.
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From: Seattle
UPDATE!
Well guys, after further inspection:
1) Transfer case was makin' some serious racket.
2) And as greystreak92 indicated, the bottom inside edge of the tailgate was rotted out -bad.
Thanks again guys for the great info!
I think I look some more......
Well guys, after further inspection:
1) Transfer case was makin' some serious racket.
2) And as greystreak92 indicated, the bottom inside edge of the tailgate was rotted out -bad.
Thanks again guys for the great info!
I think I look some more......
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Posting Guru
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From: Seattle
UPDATE!
Picked-up a '90 with 110K miles for $3800.00. The truck is pretty clean (body wise) and mechanically sound with no rust.
New question for the Gurus:
The tailgate is (believe it or not) rust free at the bottom edge. As MinnManBroncoFan said, I found this to be a MAJOR problem on many of the Broncs I looked at. So, what's your guy's suggestion for keeping this problem area rust free? I'm willing to pull the panel and get inside if need be. Thanks in advance.
Picked-up a '90 with 110K miles for $3800.00. The truck is pretty clean (body wise) and mechanically sound with no rust.
New question for the Gurus:
The tailgate is (believe it or not) rust free at the bottom edge. As MinnManBroncoFan said, I found this to be a MAJOR problem on many of the Broncs I looked at. So, what's your guy's suggestion for keeping this problem area rust free? I'm willing to pull the panel and get inside if need be. Thanks in advance.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Longview, TX
POR-15 starter kit. Treat it inside all along bottom of tailgate but pay special attention to between the outer skin and the metal against it in the middle bottom. Take your time and use all three steps for the POR-15. I waited a week between 2 and 3. Then after POR-15 dried another week I used a good spray can of undercoat to fill the top groove and keep water out of the metal I was talking about then all along the bottom. With the tailgate down inspect the very botttom edge outside and treat as needed. Don't forget two new window wiper strips. While you are in there be sure the piece of metal that holds the torsion bar away from the lowered window is not about to let go of the torsion bar. If it is okay be sure to POR-15 it good.
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Gateway to the West
Had the last two (tailgates) I replaced Rhino-lined before they were installed. The guys take the spray tip off the gun when they do it and just fill the crevice between the inner and outer skin of the gate so nothing can get in there to even begin the corrosion process. And basically, whether you rhino-line, undercoat, POR-15, or whatever, thats the idea. Preventive measures to keep things from starting to corrode is the best thing to do. Take the time, while you have the inner inspection cover off, to understand how the latch and window mechanisms work and move. If you get a good look (take photos even) at how it all goes together and works BEFORE you have any issues with it, you will be able to spot problems should they arise in the future and trust me, they WILL arise. Tailgate issues with a Big Bronco are like Popes being Catholic!