I realize there are several options, depending on many factors. I'm asking for recommendations and pros and cons of various paint systems available. Here's my situation:
1. 4x4 truck to be used as a 4x4 truck (paint must be durable and scratch/chip resistant)
2. nice look, but not show quality--the ultimate would be a "factory look"
3. truck will not be garage kept (need UV resistance)
4. Color--black
5. Cost IS of concern. I would like to spend $700, or less on materials if possible.
6. Not too tricky to work with. I've only painted a few cars, and it has been a while.

Based on this info, what do you recommend for a nice, tough paint job assuming that I do all the prep work properly?

single stage or base/clear?
acrylic enamel or urethane?
something else?

I know a guy who does airplane work. He suggested an airplane epoxy paint? Anyone ever used this on a truck? How'd it turn out? (He said they also use it to paint the white top on school buses these days--but its hard to get a good up-close look at the top of a school bus without risking jail time!)

Thanks for any help!

 

Only epoxy I have used has been primer. Polyurethane is about the toughest paint I know of. Maybe use a cheaper color and top with polyurethane clear? Single stage Acyrlic enamel is pretty cheap and can be clearcoated, but check the tech sheets and they should tell you what clears you can paint over it and if much of a difference in price then just buying a basecoat in the color you are looking for. Basecoat will dry much quicker so harder to run, have bugs swimming in it and dirt landing in it. Also if you do get a boo boo in the color coat, with basecoat just wetsand it out after 30 min to an hour and shoot a little more base on the area before clear. With the single stage enamel any repair before clearing would be more of a hassle. The clear should give the color uv protection. Depends on what color you choose and if you use a higher line or budget line if you will come under your price range or not. A top of the line polyurethane clear will probably near $200 a gallon with the activator, and some basecoat colors are pretty expensive in the upper lines, like a red or gold pearl. solid black is one of the cheapest colors.The price depends on what pigments and pearls, metallics are in that color. You want a factory look, just spray at low pressure and get a bunch of orange peel, lol. The quality of the paint job is mainly in the prep and the skill of the person behind the spray gun, and the clear can be wetsanded and buffed after to get a glass like appearance. The single stage urethanes, enamels can be cleared, but being a single stage paint, they don't have to be cleared because they spray out glossy and are activated. The basecoat isn't activated (some are, like ppg dbu and dupont chromabase) and dry dull and they have to be cleared.

 

If I used a single stage and then cleared over it, wouldn't the clear be more likely to chip or flake off later on (due to the slicker base?)
Right now, I'm leaning toward the clear polyurethane top coat(s)--but I am interested in this epoxy finish paint. I'd be willing to sacrifice the a little of the glassy look for a stronger, longer lasting paint. I know how this truck will be used (that's how it got in the shape its in now), so I need the toughest paint I can get.

 

I wouldn't think it would be more prone to chip off because it is glossy. As long as the products are compatable and it is cleared within the time window, the clear should bite into the base color and have good adhesion. But it is important to read the tech sheets for the paint and use recommended products to prevent possibilities of unwanted problems. The paint companys put research and design there products to work together and don't really want people having problems with their products so they should know what works. I think I would go with a basecoat and clear just for the ease of working with the basecoat and its fast drying time. Don't really know if you would save much if any spraying single stage black enamel instead of basecoat. Its some colors of pearls in the upper lines that get pretty expensive. Sorry can't help you with the epoxy paint. I am not aware of epoxy auto paint, at least made by ppg, dupont and other major brands, but I don't work in a shop everyday anymore either, and don't keep up on products as much as I use to. When I worked in bodyshops, we used mainly basecoat with a urethane clear, I didn't use single stage paint much except when I first got into it in the late 80's and the base clear paint started taking over. Lacquer was already on its way out, remember dumping all the lacquer paint on the mixing banks into the waste barrel at the first dealership I worked at out of tech school. Lacquer is not very durable anyways and has to be buffed to get gloss. Also remember if you compare price that basecoat you might need less of then if you bought single stage enamel, because the basecoat may be reduced 1-1 1/2 times so 2 quarts could give you a gallon or more sprayable, where as the single stage enamel may be 4 parts paint to 1 part activator and no reducer so a gallon would give you 5 qts sprayable. Clear might be about the same case as the single stage. Basically you could say clear is like single stage without pigment in it.

 

In my opinion, your best bet would be to go with Imron,two part polyurethane. The stuff is bulletproof, and covers well, kicks off (dries) fast, and you can wet sand and buff any small runs, etc. The best way to go is to use their Corlar zinc chromate epoxy primer. If you have access to a booth, you can use retarder (gloss additive ) in the Imron, and it should look killer !
You will not find a tougher more durable paint than Imron.

 

Aircraft epoxy is some tough stuff.It might cost some high dollars though.When I was in the Navy a pilot's wife had his VW Bug painted in his squadrons colors.It looked sharp just not the same shine as auto paint.

Brian

 

17--I think you are right--don't think I'd save that much by going with enamel for base--besides, it wouldn't be as forgiving as a fast drying base for a non-pro like me.

Who makes the Imron? Is it a BC/CC system or Single Stage? What's approx cost/gal?

I've seen industrial epoxy on cranes and other equip, but all I've seen seems to dull rather rapidly. Never seen any that would get washed and waxed like a vehicle though.

 

Du Pont makes Imron, and it comes in a clear coat to which you can add metalflake of any color you wish (probably not recommended by the manufacturer). Before applying Imron yourself, you should talk to someone who has experience with it. It is different. You can achieve great results, but there is a trick to mixing, temperature control, etc. As for wet sanding, plan on using a lot of sandpaper, elbow grease, and time. The paint is so hard that it resists being worked like the devil.

 

That shows you how long i've been out of the business. I used dupont imron many times and it was a single stage polyurethane back then. Went to the paint store recently and now they have it as a base/clear system also. Pierce used the imron single stage on their fire trucks back when I went to tech school and we toured their plant, but not sure if they still use it or not. I am a little partial to ppg so I keep up on their products a little better, but Dupont is a good brand also. If you wetsand and buff a polyurethane clear, probably best to get the buffer on it as soon as possible, cause if wait awhile to buff you may have a much harder time getting the wetsanding scratches buffed out. Not sure of the price on imron as I haven't bought it, call your local dupont supplier and ask.

 

m04, for what you want, tough, reasonable cost, you can't beat Imron. Since cost is a factor, I'd stay with plain black, no clear. It holds a shine well, and as stated, it is TOUGH. Cost per gallon? Call your local body shop/ paint supply. Just make sure they deal in DuPont, and don't let em talk you into something else! You might also try a Google

 

Thanks guys for all the help--sounds like Imron may be the product for my app--now for the fun part--the prep! Lots of work to do before I'm buying paint. With my schedule, I'll probably have time to save for the clearcoat!

 

Okay, since it sounds like you want to go with imron, heres a link to the tech sheet on the imron basecoat. You will have to look for the sheet on the clear you choose. Doesn't look like it drys as fast as chromabase basecoat unless you use an accellerator in the paint. http://www.performancecoatings.dupon...ronEliteBC.pdf

 

From all the painters that I've talked to, the one to use is Endura two part epoxy paint. Easy to apply, easy to mix and once the 2-3 weeks have passed to let it really harden up, it's bloody near bullet proof.
Pat Patrick