Front-end question. I have a 92 Aero, 3.0 2WD with 250Kms on it. Last year I replace the outer tie rod ends and that’s it.

Now the font end is acting up and has several problems. Here they are in what I consider order of importance.

1. The steering wheel has play in it. I can turn it from side to side for about 20 degrees without affecting the wheels. When I open the hood, I can grab the steering column where it comes through the firewall and turn it side to side without seeing the tie rods move. Is there something that can be adjusted in the rack or does it sound like a new rack. Also the steering column seems loose where it enters the firewall.

2. The high-pressure hose from the steering pump to the rack has developed a slight leak at both ends, but the hose still looks good. Is there a seal that can be replaced or do I need a new hose.

3. How long does a front-end usually last. I tested the parts last year and only detected play in the outer tie rods which I promptly replaced, but the upper and lower ball joints seem rock solid. I grease the parts every 5,000 kms.

 

1. The steering column on my 92 3.0L consists of three shafts. One is a shaft in the steering column itself which runs from the steering wheel and attaches through a universal joint to an upper intermediate shaft. The upper intermediate shaft goes through the firewall (held by a firewall mounted housing) and attaches through another universal joint to the lower intermediate shaft. The lower intermediate shaft angles over to the rack and attaches to the rack power steering gear through another universal joint with a pinch bolt.

Sounds like you have a problem either with one or more of the universal joints being worn, loose or broken allowing for sloppy operation. Or, the lower intermediate shaft coupling pinch bolt is loose or gone allowing it to slip around the power steering gear on the rack.

2. The high pressure hose does have rubber seals that can be changed. You'll probably have to get them from a new/replacement rack and pinion kit. I haven't seen them offered separately. Maybe someone else has and can provide information on where to get them.

3. How long a rack lasts depends upon the kind of driving that you've put it through and how much abuse it has had to endure.

Hope this helps.

Ron

 

A further bit of clarification to Ron's post. The high pressure line also contains an internal o-ring seal that allows the line to accept motion generated by drivetrain torque. Those seals are not replaceable. Its often hard to distinquish at which point in the coupling the leak is occuring. In my experience, the outer seals rarely fail once properly installed. Unless you have recently removed the line or inadvertently overtightened the connection trying the stop the leak, these should be okay. Most of my leaking P/S hoses have always been from the internal seals.

If you are greasing the upper and lower ball joints, they have been replaced at some point. The OEM parts did not have grease fittings. Worn inner tie rods and wear on the rack/pinion internals could also be part of the loose steering feel. At that age and mileage, you can reasonably expect a steering rack replacemnent is in your future. Luckily, rebuilt racks are a bargain these days, around $85-95.

 

Sorry for a little sidetrack here. How is that new steering rack you put on, Aerocolorado? Is there anything out there better than the Cardone junk we have been using? I'm getting sick of swapping the rack every year.

Next time, may be I'll open the danged thing up and change the seals myself

 

Here’s what I found out today. First, I checked the front end myself. It seemed that the ball joints are fine, as they have no play. The Tie rods also seem fine. I took it to Canadian tire for an inspection expecting to get a bill for thousands of dollars. Instead they gave me an upfront explanation of what they felt was wrong.

First, they agreed that the ball joints are fine. The upper ones are still the riveted ones so they must still be OEM. The lower ones have no play so they are fine, and the inner and outer tie rods have no play so they are OK!!

What they did point out was that the wheel bearings are loose and need to be repacked with new seals which would explain the loose steering, the rotors are both rust pitted and need replacing which would explain the vibration when braking at low speeds and the sway bar bushings are shot which would explain the occasional banging when on a rough road. The high-pressure hose is leaking, but it is so minor that they felt a little stop leak should fix it.

I will be tackling these on the weekend to get the van back in good shape. I love this van and if it weren’t for the rust starting to show, I would keep it for several more years.

 

I fixed my rust 2 years ago and have been spraying oil into access holes every since. No rust showing since. My van has a large number of access holes, on the sliding door, along both sides, at the rear, etc. Plus some extra that were put in during undercoating. Why not fix and keep it a few extra years if you are cheap like me? Just a suggestion.

 

Since the post seems to be going in different directions, I'll respond regarding the rebuilt rack raised by Copper. (For those new to the forum, we both have replaced our steering racks multiple times - always with Cardone brand and both have similar failure rates after roughly 12 months of service.)

At the one month interval, everything is just hunky dory so far. Its springtime, the van runs great and of course, I plan on keeping it forever. Ask me in March 06 and I'm sure I'll be saying again, enough is enough and THIS time around I'm selling. Then after a few days I think heck, the replacement is free and for a few hours with dirty hands I could have a really well kept van to drive again versus buying another used car with unknown problems.

Autozone does offer a different rebuilder ATSI or something similar to that. I've not heard of them but the prices are roughly equivalent. I'm kind of stuck with Cardone for the time being with their warranty. I did grill the store manager this last time around about a full refund if this rack fails. They keep claiming they just don't see failure rates like this. I did replace the P/S pump and pressure line as well. So far the fluid remains crystal clear. Time alone will tell.

 

Here’s what I replaced. Both front rotors were rust pitted so I put on new ones. I didn’t want to reuse the old bearings so new outer and inner were in order. I replaced the disc pads as well. I then replaced all the rubber parts for the sway bar as they were loose. Finally, I flushed the power steering system with valvoline power steering fluid. The front end is almost like new. The vibration when turning is gone as is the vibration when stopping. All is good, but boy I’m tired.