Help! CAB swap
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Joined: Mar 2000
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Help! CAB swap
I have a 84 F250(frame is bent- hit a rock- no damage to the body). Also have an 81 F100 SW I-6 with a rusted out cab,front clip and a dead engine. Will the 84 cab, front clip and engine fit on the 81 frame? And how about the axles? Any help appreciated. I've got a friend to help with any of the reccomendations. I've got a weekend free to do the swap.
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Joined: Nov 1999
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Help! CAB swap
Paulg,
The answer is yes, definatly. I did a complete body swap last month. I put a 1990 cab and box on my 1981 chasis(see post March 15th).
Mark and disconnect all wires from cab to engine
(sending unit wires ect.)leave electronic control module with engine. Disconnect brake lines at master cylinder. You will need to remove the radiator and fan shroud to provide clearance.
There are 6 cab mount bolts, 1 on either side of the radiator, 2 under the floor mats inside the cab, 2 behind the seat. You may need to heat the nut on the under side a little if the factory put locktite on the bolts.
To hoist the cab you can do it one of two ways. I used along tow rope, opened the doors and ran the rope all the way under the cab. You can also roll down windows close the doors and run the rope thru and lift by the roof(I know it doesn't sound strong enough but it is).We then used a cherry picker to lift in the front to help balance it. This way you can take the cab and front clip in one unit(there is no reason not to take them as one). Once you get them cab up high enough roll the chasis out. Remove the rusted out cab first as a "practice vehicle". If you have help a day or two will take care of it. Good luck if you have any questions send me an e-mail.
ET
The answer is yes, definatly. I did a complete body swap last month. I put a 1990 cab and box on my 1981 chasis(see post March 15th).
Mark and disconnect all wires from cab to engine
(sending unit wires ect.)leave electronic control module with engine. Disconnect brake lines at master cylinder. You will need to remove the radiator and fan shroud to provide clearance.
There are 6 cab mount bolts, 1 on either side of the radiator, 2 under the floor mats inside the cab, 2 behind the seat. You may need to heat the nut on the under side a little if the factory put locktite on the bolts.
To hoist the cab you can do it one of two ways. I used along tow rope, opened the doors and ran the rope all the way under the cab. You can also roll down windows close the doors and run the rope thru and lift by the roof(I know it doesn't sound strong enough but it is).We then used a cherry picker to lift in the front to help balance it. This way you can take the cab and front clip in one unit(there is no reason not to take them as one). Once you get them cab up high enough roll the chasis out. Remove the rusted out cab first as a "practice vehicle". If you have help a day or two will take care of it. Good luck if you have any questions send me an e-mail.
ET
