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The 9" rear in my 63 f100 made a violent hammer noise when going into reverse. Thought I popped it out of gear hard- didn't think much more of it. A couple days later I downshifted a bit hard and it happened again. I had to drive it to work Friday and kinda checked it out on the way. (15mi) By the time I got home I noticed it would do it if I let off the gas any. It does it in forward now I noticed when I moved it to check it out.
The u-joints are tight. The PO put a different punkin in it. I've only drove it 500mi or so. I haven't had a chance to check it out internally yet since whoever did the previous work on it stripped one of the nuts holding the axel in and I don't have what it takes to get it loose right now.
If the nut on the yoke is not torqued properly, would it cause this? It's got to be slipping teeth or something because it is not just a clunk, but a gut wrenching BANG!
I've never opened up a rear end, and about all I know past gear ratios, I've learned in the last to days by reading so any help in the right direction would be apreciated.
you could put the rear up on stands, take off the driveshaft at the rear axle, and check it out. See if there is any play in the pinion. Rotate it and see if you feel any binding.
Got that stripped nut off and removed the third member - it's ugly in there. One of the bearings is competely gone and a couple teeth on the ring gear are chipped real bad, the rest are scored. My guess is either the punkin was in sad condition when the PO put it in, or it was way out of adjustment (or both). It's a anchor now anyhow, so what to do, what to do?
The axles and housing seem to be OK. Same with the axle bearings, although I may want to replace those anyhow as they look pitted - meaning old to me. The axel seals are no good either.
So what punkin is gonna fit a 1963 F100 9" rear? -or- What complete rear axel from what vehicle would under my truck?
well about any of the drop outs will fit your housing it's the other way that you can't go because if I recall somewhere in the 60s they went from having a housing mounted fill plug to having a drop out mounted fill plug so it won't matter on yours if you have the housing mounted, the big issue is gonna be what spline axles do you have, and then get a drop out diff with the same splines. If your axles are good then I would just find one with the same spline axles, and replace the dropout.
one suggestion though if you want to get fancy try, and find a 9" out of a late 70s linclon varsillies as they had disk brakes on them, so then if you either swap the fronts to disk, or it already is then you would have 4 wheel disk<a href='http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb008_ZNxdm824BCUS' target='_blank'><img src='http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/29/29_1_1.gif' alt='Smile' border=0></a> although you would have to weld on the brackets for the springs in your truck but not a hard job really.
Sam, you could also just rebuild what you have. If the spiders and side gears are ok, you just need a R&P ~$150 new, and a rebuild kit ~$100. You may need to have the axle shaft bearings done as well, for another ~$75. Toss in some of your labor, and you are set!
Oh no, there isn't anything salvagable outta the third member except maybe the pinion (not the gear, just the part that hooks to the driveshaft - not even sure it comes off?) There was alot of metal flying around inside there!
Went to the junk yard and found a few possibles. $100 Per whole axle. One off a 69 - dimension wise it's the exact same axle. Three from 73-79 with about 2" more width flange to flange and further out spring perches, but 2-1/2" brakes instead of 1-3/4". Guy at the yard even offered to move the perches for me. He drags and snags any posi nines so no lucky finds.
Didn't crawl under to check the #'s on any of them yet. Can you tell a 28 spline from a 31 spline besides pulling an axle?
thanks for the input fellas - I'm learning alot about rear axles - trial by fire