BBBBrakes
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
Likes: 1
From: Near Fresno, California
I have the same problem - and will replace all the lines. I intended to replace the rubber goods anyway, but now worry about the steel lines. Unlike the newer trucks, if any line developes a break you will lose all your brakes - both front and rear.
With a 50 year old vehicle, do you want to trust steel lines not to rust?
With a 50 year old vehicle, do you want to trust steel lines not to rust?
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,730
Likes: 13
From: Waynesville, OH
The rusty looking brake fluid is not a good sign. Brake fluid (except for some of the silicone-based stuff) absorbs moisture to a certain point to keep the lines and cylinders from rusting. Sounds like you've long ago exceeded the capacity of your brake fluid to handle the moisture. You may find that it's not just the wheel cylinders and master cylinder that have corroded or have internal pits. The steel lines may be weakened by internal rust even if they look OK on the outside.
I'm afraid I agree with the other fellas, you should absolutely flush all the old, crappy brake fluid out of the system and replace the wheel cylinders and probably the master cylinder. If you really want peace of mind, replace the brake lines as well. Then fill 'er up with fresh, clean brake fluid and you won't have to worry about your brakes failing as you rapidly approach the rear of that semi-trailer with the ICC bar that's been pushed up underneath by backing into one too many loading docks.
I'm afraid I agree with the other fellas, you should absolutely flush all the old, crappy brake fluid out of the system and replace the wheel cylinders and probably the master cylinder. If you really want peace of mind, replace the brake lines as well. Then fill 'er up with fresh, clean brake fluid and you won't have to worry about your brakes failing as you rapidly approach the rear of that semi-trailer with the ICC bar that's been pushed up underneath by backing into one too many loading docks.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 5
From: Shasta Lake, Ca.
I would run all new lines and set them up for a Dual resavoir master.. U can always join them just befor the master.. That way in the future you can easyly upgrade the system if you like.. This is the one system you want to work right the first time no matter what.. And like the other said.. its time to go all new.. Even if its new OEM type of set up its better than a rebuilt system that could let go at any time...
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Bacliff Texas
Trending Topics
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
2 things you don't want to cheese on are brakes and steering! I just did the front disc conversion using the "Brake Tech..." article on this site. A relatively easy project even for a rookie like me, and well worth the effort!
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Second that Notion
Last weekend I took apart the two rear drum brakes and was surprised to find that inside the brake cylinders was a bunch of semi-hard build up of what appeared to be rust - and the brake fluid was really rusty. The cylinders cleaned up real well (and I had already ordered rebuilt kits), but gonna agree here that theres not much point trusting the 50-year old brake lines if that stuff has been in there that long.
Another observation I found - somebody before me removed the rear axle rubber bumpers from the frame - either somebody decided they would make better doorstops than axle bumpers, or it was an misguided attempt to improve the truck's meager horsepower-to-weight ratio.
Anyway, when I dropped the rear axle off the truck I found one of the steel brake lines running across the top of the rear axle had been smashed amost totally flat - so I probably only had 3 brakes working. Maybe that accounts for the reason I put the truck sideways the only time I hit the brakes pretty hard.
Brake lines (and brake line kits) are pretty affordable - and not worth skimping on. Speedway has a steel brake line kit that comes with all the fittings - others probably do as well.
Another observation I found - somebody before me removed the rear axle rubber bumpers from the frame - either somebody decided they would make better doorstops than axle bumpers, or it was an misguided attempt to improve the truck's meager horsepower-to-weight ratio.
Anyway, when I dropped the rear axle off the truck I found one of the steel brake lines running across the top of the rear axle had been smashed amost totally flat - so I probably only had 3 brakes working. Maybe that accounts for the reason I put the truck sideways the only time I hit the brakes pretty hard.Brake lines (and brake line kits) are pretty affordable - and not worth skimping on. Speedway has a steel brake line kit that comes with all the fittings - others probably do as well.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
I just bought all new brake lines for my 48 at NAPA last week. I am replacing every line in the truck and it's only costing me about 40 bucks...even at NAPA. The new lines are inexpensive and will give you peace of mind. It doesn't make sense to run new brake fluid through old rusty lines... 
Vern
Vern
Elder User
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 736
Likes: 0
From: Owasso Oklahoma USA
When I was removing the rear axle from my '55 F100 I found a very soft copper tubing had been spliced into the steel line to the rear brakes. I cut the copper line to make it quicker to get the axle out knowing I would replace all the lines later.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,908
Likes: 2
From: Seattle WA.
Fuzzy, I have 2 new front wheel cylinders if you want them send me an e-mail. I purchased them installed one and drove my 51 F1 home 40 miles. I then installed disc front brakes, and I'm extremely happy with them.
Rod
Rod