When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 1985 460, and the housing for the slave cylindar cracked and I replaced it. I am a bit clueless as to the process for manually bleeding the slave cylindar. I have tried what I can think of to get the air out but have met with little sucess. Is it possible to manually bleed this setup, and if so what is the step by step process for accompishing this? Do I need to submerge the lower housing with the hex bleed screw open to draw the fluid into the cylindar?
Thanks for your help
David
David ,
I checked thru the repair manual and you basically open the bleed screw on the slave valve and let the fluid run out until there is no more air bubbles present in the fluid . Make sure you leave the cap off the clutch master cylinder , it will bleed a whole lot faster . Just keep an eye on the fluid level or have someone do it . The bleed screws on the slave valves are located on the highest point of the valve so all the air will be expelled . What I have seen happen sometimes is a preson forgets to leave the cap off the master cylinder ...the fluid runs fine until a vacuum gets created in the master cylinder and the fluid will not drain .
Paul
Paul
Thanks for your quick response. Let me ask for further clarification.
I should have the slave cylindar lower than the master cylindar with the bleed valve open, and in the upright position. The cap to the master cylindar open (I did have that much going for me), then do I have the clutch pedal depressed, released, or pump it slowly to move the fluid? Should I expect that gravity alone will move the air bubbles through the pump?
Thanks
David
I and many others have been thru this before, there is no sure fire method of getting all the air out, even the dealers have had problems if you search the archives on this subject. It is like bleeding brakes in a way tho, Be careful that you don't let the pedal up off the floor with the bleeder open or you will pull air back into the line. If yours is like mine, you have a plastic bodied slave cylinder with a set screw for a bleeder. The plastic strips out easily (experience talking here) so be careful. I replace mine with a BENDIX unit that was made of metal and it had a regular brake type bleeder on it. Much better.
Good Luck,
Danny
Thanks for the response. I have the plastic variety by Wagner. I appreciate the suggestion for Bendix. I have searched the archives and found some other good tips. I am going to try to expediate the process by adding fluid at the bleed plug and let gravity do the rest.
Regards
David
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.