Transmission acting funny!
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Transmission acting funny!
On my '00 Explorer Sport 4X4, 4.0 SOHC, I just noticed that the trans seems to missing a gear, or something like that! It seems that it is slipping in 2nd or 3rd. I can tell as the tach revs about 500 RPM before it shifts gears. This is at low city speeds. On the highway, at about 45-55 MPH, when WOT is applied, the passing gear turns into what seems like neutral. Releasing the pedal, returns you back into OD and normal driving is observed. However, if you drive, using the trans selector, 1 2 OD, all is normal. It just acts funny when you select OD and drive as normal people do. I just had the trans flushed, but the filter was not replaced. Might do that this weekend. Any ideas before I have to give my first born to some transmission shop?
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1A1, I had the same 2-3 shift "flare" in my 2000 Sport; it's not uncommon with these models. I fixed it by replacing thefollowing parts:
Revised separator plate w/bonded gaskets, Ford part # 1L5Z-7Z490-GA
Revised blow-off valve kit, Ford # 3L5Z-7M203-JA
New EPC (electronic pressure control) solenoid
Superior Shift Kit for 5R55E transmission
All of these parts can be replaced with the transmission in place, by unbolting the valve body. Unfortunately I don't know which part fixed the flare, since I replaced them all while I had the pan off. (I suspect it was the separator plate and blow-off valve, since Ford has a TSB out on this problem, and these are supposed to fix it.) The fix is not hard, directions are included, you just have to watch the valve body bolt sizes, since there are about 4 different sizes that have to go back into their respective holes.
Good luck.
Revised separator plate w/bonded gaskets, Ford part # 1L5Z-7Z490-GA
Revised blow-off valve kit, Ford # 3L5Z-7M203-JA
New EPC (electronic pressure control) solenoid
Superior Shift Kit for 5R55E transmission
All of these parts can be replaced with the transmission in place, by unbolting the valve body. Unfortunately I don't know which part fixed the flare, since I replaced them all while I had the pan off. (I suspect it was the separator plate and blow-off valve, since Ford has a TSB out on this problem, and these are supposed to fix it.) The fix is not hard, directions are included, you just have to watch the valve body bolt sizes, since there are about 4 different sizes that have to go back into their respective holes.
Good luck.
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1A1, you're very welcome.
www.fordpartsnetwork.com is a good source for parts, and they're a site sponsor. They usually get the parts to you the next day. Their pricing on the plate and valve kit was under $36, including shipping.
By the way, both the plate and valve must be installed together as a "kit"; one won't work without the other. You'll also need a new trans filter, pan gasket, and about 5-6 quarts of Mercon V ATF.
Good luck with it.
www.fordpartsnetwork.com is a good source for parts, and they're a site sponsor. They usually get the parts to you the next day. Their pricing on the plate and valve kit was under $36, including shipping.
By the way, both the plate and valve must be installed together as a "kit"; one won't work without the other. You'll also need a new trans filter, pan gasket, and about 5-6 quarts of Mercon V ATF.
Good luck with it.
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Similar problem
I have a 2000 Exp. XLT automatic doing something similar. It seems to hesitate going from 2nd to 3rd. Occaisionally the O/D turns itself off at higher speeds, and I just noticed that it doesn't always start from 1st after stopping. I would rather not chance being talked into a new tranny when it only has 63K. Any ideas on what to check out or test first?
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WPeoples, I would have the codes scanned first, to see if any are present. A code will pinpoint the trouble more precisely.
If no codes are present, then it's just a guessing game. I'd start with the revised valve body separator plate, and blow-off valve kit listed in the above post. The parts are inexpensive enough, and would be a logical next step, since Ford revised them for a reason.....
If no codes are present, then it's just a guessing game. I'd start with the revised valve body separator plate, and blow-off valve kit listed in the above post. The parts are inexpensive enough, and would be a logical next step, since Ford revised them for a reason.....
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No Codes
I have no codes on the OBD II. Right now I'm gathering the parts via snail mail to see if I can fix the problem. Like theloneRanger said, Ford revised these parts for a reason!
Last edited by canomjm1a1; May 11, 2005 at 05:02 AM.
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1A1, are you doing this job yourself? If so, here are some tips:
First off, an ATSG manual for the 5R55E would be helpful, especially if something like a check ball accidently falls out of the valve body.
Draw a template of the new separator plate bolt positions (and punch holes) on the bottom of a cardboard box. Then place the VB bolts in the correct hole positions in the template, as you remove them. There are about 24 bolts, in about 4 different sizes, and they must be replaced in the same position. Having a template reduces the chance of error, and makes re-assembly much quicker.
There's a manual shift control rod that must be placed on the shift control valve, as the valve body is replaced. This is easy to miss, and you don't want to reassemble everything with this part loose, and then have to take it apart again......
Any questions, just ask. Good luck with it.
First off, an ATSG manual for the 5R55E would be helpful, especially if something like a check ball accidently falls out of the valve body.
Draw a template of the new separator plate bolt positions (and punch holes) on the bottom of a cardboard box. Then place the VB bolts in the correct hole positions in the template, as you remove them. There are about 24 bolts, in about 4 different sizes, and they must be replaced in the same position. Having a template reduces the chance of error, and makes re-assembly much quicker.
There's a manual shift control rod that must be placed on the shift control valve, as the valve body is replaced. This is easy to miss, and you don't want to reassemble everything with this part loose, and then have to take it apart again......
Any questions, just ask. Good luck with it.
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Well, this is what happened! Ya'll didn't tell me that the catalitic converter was under the transmission pan! I had to jack up the rear of the transmission to get enough clearence to get to it. Then I found out it still wouldn't come out because the front driveshaft was in the way! Anyway, I finally got it out. It was clean on the inside with a little black on the magnetic strip. This made me happy! I had to endure the "red rain" as I got out the valve body which came out easy. I got the parts that thelonerangerxlt advised and like he stated, it was fairly simple just by reading the instructions. I used a shift kit from TransGo. But after it was all said and done, my truck runs like a new car. The shifts are alot firmer. There are no more "ghost gears" as you feel every shift. No more high speed cut out and no slipping, or coasting. There is no "clunk" when you put it into reverse or drive. You almost can't tell it's in gear. You have to trust your trans indicator. I can't thank ya'll enough for responding! I invested $150 in tools and parts to save $1500 to $2000 at some shop!! Thanks again, you were great!!
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Congratulations, A1A! Glad you got it fixed. Yeah, the 4x4 pan is harder to get to, but it sounds like you did OK.
Hopefully these fixes will last for many miles. I have several thousand on mine now, and it still shifts like a new one.
There's nothing like the satisfaction of a job well done.....congrats again.
Glad you got it fixed. Yeah, the 4x4 pan is harder to get to, but it sounds like you did OK.Hopefully these fixes will last for many miles. I have several thousand on mine now, and it still shifts like a new one.
There's nothing like the satisfaction of a job well done.....congrats again.
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From: Seal Beach
where did you purchase the epc and shift kit? My 01 is having very long shift durations(first two upshifts) but can shift manually and does fine.The 4/5 gear shifts are fine also. Some days it is fine others it is acting up so I manually shift to avoid o/d lite flash and direct but clunky shifts(only when o/d light flashes). I dont have any reverse problems and havent noticed if I have a coast issue that others have mentioned. What are shift/coast solenoids?