Journeytoforever.org has technical information and some recipes for producing what sounds like high quality homebrew biodiesel. There seems to be a lot more to the process than just adding methanol and lye and letting it settle out. I'd like to learn to make home brew bio and blend it to B20 or higher at the pump but the last thing I want to do is replace my newly rebuilt 7.3 IDI next year.
Producing home brew bio at an estimated cost of $.70 and blending into B20 with dino at $2.70 brings the cost back to $2.30 for a savings of $.40 / gallon. At those dollars it would take 2500 miles to break even if I have to replace the pump and injectors but it takes closer to 20,000 miles if a person has to replace the engine. If a person could run a 100,000- 200,000 miles on B20 it would really pay off and that's where the quality of the bio product becomes extremely important.
I'd like to here from anyone who has tried Mike Pelly's recipes or other recipes purporting to produce high quality bio and/or has 20,000 plus miles on an engine using B20 or higher blends.
well I got a book on order and will let you know how it works.... now form my understanding unluss you are running straight vegatable oil there is no worrys about seals and pumps... it when you run straight VO in your diesel you have to worry also in winter time they say don't use a 80/20 mix but a 90/10 (b100)
I will be also running this in a 84 and a 87 6.9 and in a 87 6.5 chevy...
I'm learning more all the time and there is some conflicting information posted on the web. Some sites state that biodiesel mixes higher than B20 act as a solvent that will disolve petroleum deposits left in your fuel tank and will soften natural rubber as well as some synthetic rubber hoses. It's my understanding that switching to straight petroleum fuel to purge the system before shut down can help alleviate the fuel line & seal degradation problems. The disolved petro products are also reported to clog filters until enough biodiesel is put through the system to clean it out so a person might want to add a prefilter to the line or at least stock up on extra filters. From what I've read SVO and poor grades of biodiesel are the ones that can coke an engine and ruin injection systems. Products meeting ASTM standards don't report this problem.
Last edited by tdford; 05-06-2005 at 09:12 AM.
Reason: clarify & correct grammar
yes I read also about when you start running bio you need to add some "cheepy" filters to your fuel line I use the semi-clear one from walmart..... what year vehicle are you talkinf about using on bio on?
1991 F350 w/ 7.3 IDI A sleeve dropped in the old block so I just put in a new rebuild w/ new injection pump and injectors, new turbo cartridge, etc. and have 37 miles on her. I don't want to have to replace that engine again very soon. but while I was having an engine built the truck got a few other upgrades which are still ongoing, most notably a tag axle which turned out to be as major a project as the engine but bottom line is the truck is not a junker I can gamble with and I sure can't afford to lose the engine in a few thousand miles. On the flip side, I'm commited to home brewing and running bio-diesel. Just want to make as certain as possible that I brew and use it the right way. What book will you be using and what is the copy right date?
Also it seems you typed an extra 0 on your first post. B100 is the designation for 100% biodiesel.
Thanks for the tip on the filters. I hadn't figured that one out yet.
Hi guy's Yes you can make and use Biodiesel! I've been doing it for almost 10 months now! There are conflicking web sites out there tho. I've tried them all! I finely came up with my own way to make it and haven't had a problem since.If you look at my earlyer post's you may get some idea of the process I use. I am currantly making 500-600 gal a week, and we use it in 6 different diesel engine's with NO problems at all and a hp increase of 10-15%! Just be sure to use good filter's. You WILL be amazed at the crud that dinodiesel leaves in your fuel system! FABMANDELUX.