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Gents,
I've got a 93 F150 4x4 I was under this weekend. I've got a bad lower ball joint on the passenger side, which probably means I should replace them all, huh?
Is this a job I can handle at home??? Anything I should know in advance. I know I'll have to buy/rent the press to get the ball joints off and new ones on. What else might I look at replacing while I've got the things torn down???
Truck has 158K and has mostly original front end pieces. I'm thinking of replacing the steering linkage at the same time.
It would be a good idea to get greasable ball joints . I replaced mine with Moog ones . I just took the steering knuckle off and took it to a machine shop with the new ball joints and let them press the old out and the new in . First off mark your Camber adjustment cam and replace it on the mark that you made . The left axle will slide out but you will have to remove the right side axle at the slip shaft , you have to leave one axle in the differential . So you ll need to buy 2 new Cv boot clamps for the slip shaft boot . Also make sure you clean all the brake dust and dirt off the spindle bolts , they are fine thread and easily stripped if they are dirty . Make sure you torque them in order and the proper sequence when you replace the spindles . There is a bearing inside the spindle too that it wouldnt hurt to clean and put some new grease on . Good time to clean and repack wheel bearings , have a look at the brake pads too . An alignment would be a good idea after you finish the job . Use new cotter pins on the top ball joints and tie rods . A good repair manual can walk you thru anything I missed .
Paul
The above post is right on the money.
Since you have the whole thing apart, do all the ball joints and the steering.
You should get the thing aligned when through, and part of an alignment is a toe set.
I feel you'd be money ahead to get that done once, rather than now and then again in the near future when you do decide to rework steering.
The lower ball joints have a self-locking nut which threads onto the joint. The threaded shaft has a large, straight screw driver type slot cut into it, to keep the shaft from freely turning while you're running down the self-locking nut.
Go to the Sears Craftsman tool catalog and order the straight screwdriver attachment for your rachet to fit this slot.
Or don't, in which case you too can spend a whole Saturday trying to torque down the lower ball joint.
Eddie
THanks Eddie ,
I thought about the nut on the lower ball joint about 30 mins after I posted the previous . That little tool is handy . One can never have enough tools .
Paul