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WELL I GOT BAD NEWS FROM THE MACHINE SHOP. MY .040 390 BLOCK HAD 2 EGGED CYLINDERS. IT NEEDS TO BE BORED AGAIN. i THOUGHT IT WOULD BE OK, SO I BOUGHT NEW .040 FLATTOPS. WHAT WOULD YOU DO, EXCHANGE THE 40'S FOR 60'S AND HAVE IT BORED OR RUIN A NICE STANDARD BORE. IT IS JUST A WEEKEND DRIVER AND I WANT THE CUBES. IF I GO .060 IT WILL MAKE IT A 401.62ci.
Just My opinion......If you go .060" your not going to have but maybe one rebuild left,in the bore, and it might even want to run hot??
I think I would look for another block..and if ya want more cubes? Stroke it !! I am just a firm Believer in leaving as much Cylinder wall as I can in my builds...They run much cooler..
You can have the 2 cylinders sleeved. I've never done it myself but I hear that it works fine.
Well I dont what they charge for resleeving a cylinder these day's ?? But back in the late 70's I use to charge $100 a hole....
So I think its just cheaper to find another Canidate for a block... And when Doing a sleeve replacement....Ask the How often they do that particular task.
Because if its done right..you'll never know it was done....and if not!! You'll be sorry!!
As Far As It Running Hot, I Can Grout The Water Jackets. I Have Done It Before On A .100 Over 350 Chevy And It Ran Fine On Temp.
OK, well if it has worked for ya in the past....Maybe it will work for ya in the future... All I was saying is..the closer to the water jackets you get the hotter its going to run.....
And it doesnt leave much for a rebuild.... But some people Like running with NO safety margin..I dont happen to be one with 8K to 10K rapped up in a motor.....I like to make it easy on the Engine and have more Reliablity for street and strip use....
This thread has gotten me concerned now. I had to bore my 390 .060 over to eliminate bore damage done by a ring groove cutter sometime in the past. I really didn't have any concern about it until now. I realized that I may not get another build out of it but I wasn't aware of the overheating problem. Is there anything I can do to help matters? I don't understand grouting the water jackets....what does that do?
my machinist uses this stuff on all his big race motors. it is poured throughout the water jacket somehow. all i know is that it works for strength and heat. and as far as another rebuild, it will not happen i know. I have several more fe blocks.
Yeah, I'd use one of the different FE blocks you've got. Typically the best candidate blocks are old 360 truck blocks. Usually nobody's touched 'em since the factory.
Use a standard bore block, bore it .030" over if you need to, and sell the other one. That's what I'd do.
I would have it sonic checked for the +.060 and go from there. True there is no room for improvement from that point if needed, but since you are just looking at a toy for daily/weekend fun, you should be OK. There is a pretty good chance you will not have cooling issues either, if your system is up to snuff.
Here's One For Ya. Are All The Blocks With The Mirror Image 105 On The Left Front Ft's. In Steve Christ's Book It Does Not Specify. That Is What My Block Has On, Though The Casting Number Shows For Both The Fe And The Ft.
my machinist uses this stuff on all his big race motors. it is poured throughout the water jacket somehow. all i know is that it works for strength and heat. and as far as another rebuild, it will not happen i know. I have several more fe blocks.
Your Machinist probably uses hard Bloc....which is pour into the block up too the water pump holes....and then let set-up....It add strength to the Cylinders making them part of the lower block..But is Does not Aide in cooling..It hender's it for a street application,cause you wont get any water to the bottom of the block....
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