Broken studs
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Portage la Prairie, Mb.
Broken studs
Well, it's been a while since I've been here. The old girl was working all right but, I recently had to remove the "Y" pipe(92-3.0L) to do some un related work. In doing so, 3 of the 4 studs snapped off....could I heat the castings with a torch to free up the broken studs?
Your thoughts....
Your thoughts....
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,529
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From: Kansas
Originally Posted by wettone
Well, it's been a while since I've been here. The old girl was working all right but, I recently had to remove the "Y" pipe(92-3.0L) to do some un related work. In doing so, 3 of the 4 studs snapped off....could I heat the castings with a torch to free up the broken studs?
Your thoughts....
Your thoughts....
I've gotten some studs out with an EZ-out and reverse-rotation drill bits, but I bet you will have to take the manifolds off and have the studs removed by either you or a competent machine shop. If you have the torch, it might be easy to get them out by you.
If you are planning to take them to a machine shop, it might be cheaper to get some from a salvage yard and just install the replacement manifolds instead of paying for someone else to remove them.
If you plan on doing this job yourself, have some good penetrating oil like P'Blaster or Kroil. The only good thing WD-40 does is dry out a distributor cap.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Portage la Prairie, Mb.
They broke off just below the nuts, and they are unique looking studs as they have a hex head in the middle of the stud that contacts the exhaust manifold flange. I'd be afraid to try to remove the manifold to cyl head bolts as they look in worse condition than the flange studs. And yes, you're right. WD-40 is crap.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: ALCONA ONTARIO
I removed the same studs on mine just yesterday.
I'm afraid I dont have good news for you... My manifolds were off because I replaced the engine, and even with the manofold in the vise and using a torch I had a hell of a time.
I dont want to discourage you, but I can almost guarantee that the manifold will have to come off.
I'm afraid I dont have good news for you... My manifolds were off because I replaced the engine, and even with the manofold in the vise and using a torch I had a hell of a time.
I dont want to discourage you, but I can almost guarantee that the manifold will have to come off.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: San Diego
Just a suggestion...
When I have a project on my old iron...
I spray everything with a good penetrating solvent (not WD-40) every other day for about a week before I start the actual repair...
(I am working on a '66 Impala at the moment)
I always apply a little torque down / on before trying to take them off.
I am a firm believer in anti-seize compound when re-assembling the beast...
When I have a project on my old iron...
I spray everything with a good penetrating solvent (not WD-40) every other day for about a week before I start the actual repair...
(I am working on a '66 Impala at the moment)
I always apply a little torque down / on before trying to take them off.
I am a firm believer in anti-seize compound when re-assembling the beast...
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2003
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Use brass!
Brass nuts or bolts used to be used when assembling exhausts. Brass never seizes onto steel. Never. Whatever happened to that idea?
Jan Richter
Jan Richter
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: San Diego
Brass (Long Nuts) are still available.
They were too expensive for the manufacturer.
Warantee repairs were seldom rusty enough to be a problem.
The part of the bolt that extends past the nut could still rust enough to keep a brass nut from coming off (Unless cleaned and lubed)
FYI, I also pre-spray shock mounting bolts and U-joints a week before I go to do the job.
They were too expensive for the manufacturer.
Warantee repairs were seldom rusty enough to be a problem.
The part of the bolt that extends past the nut could still rust enough to keep a brass nut from coming off (Unless cleaned and lubed)
FYI, I also pre-spray shock mounting bolts and U-joints a week before I go to do the job.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Portage la Prairie, Mb.
Lol! Thank you all for the help! Used the torch and am pleased to announce the offending pieces of hardware came out with barely any fight.
Replaced all 4 with 12mm capscrews(after chasing the threads with a tap), and a liberal coat of anti sieze compound. All good now, thanks again for the help.
Hopefully I won't be back in an I need help capacity for a while, but will be back soon to see if I can be of assistance to you as well!
Replaced all 4 with 12mm capscrews(after chasing the threads with a tap), and a liberal coat of anti sieze compound. All good now, thanks again for the help.
Hopefully I won't be back in an I need help capacity for a while, but will be back soon to see if I can be of assistance to you as well!
Last edited by wettone; May 3, 2005 at 02:44 PM. Reason: typo
