I have a mechanical advace. I'm running the MSD pro-billet with the lightest springs. Even without a load it will bog just slightly when I goose it. If I try to snap the throttle a couple of times in a row it will back fire.

 

If it stumbles without a load, it is sure gonna stumble even worse with a load. Lightest springs in yout dist. are probably too light for anything other than a race motor. You need to slow down the advance curve. Usually a stumble, bog is caused by one of two things. Accel pump not squirting enough fuel, or the secondaries are opening too quick and over carburating the engine. In your case the quick advance curve is making it worse. The shop that worked on your carb were morons, the idle mixture screws (the only part adjustable without taking the carb apart) are not effected by the the jets and there is no way the jets are causing your problem. The jets only control fuel flow at or near WOT and your problem is long before that.

 

is there anyone you can borrow a carb from????just to see what happen, you just might have a totaly messed up one

 

Well there is a guy with a predator carb but I would have to fab a new linkange. I haven't had much chance to work on it since I'm a single parent and the kids have been acting up lately. Hopefully I can finally pull the carb this weekend.

 

back to square one!!! did you get your pcv problem fixed??? and connect it to the carb base plate?

 

I have the PVC but I don't have the correct fitting for the intake vacum so I can't hook up the brake booster line. So right now I don't drive it. I have cleaned the oil off the motor so if it does spray oil when I get the proper intake fitting I will know. Once my girlfriend gets off work I'll ask her to watch the kids so I can go to the parts store for the fitting.

 

ok sounds good, connect your pcv to the carb plate, and your vacuum for the brakes to the intake manifold,, solve these vacuum issues before you start messing with the carb

 

I just pulled the primary squirter out and it is a 28. I also noticed my squirter doesn't have the tiny little tube pieces that the fuel squirts out like the new ones at checkers have. Is this normal? By the way I have the proper PCV and brake booster fittings installed. Now it's time to work on this carb issue. I no longer have oil spraying into the engine compartment.

 

There are two diff. types of squirters, there is nothing wrong with what you have. The tube type are more hi-perf than the std ones, but either will work fine. That seems to be an appropriate size for the squirter also.

I'm running out of ideas to help, hopefully one the prior suggestions will solve the problem!

 

glad your oil problem is solved...good luck with the carb

 

Ok after my last post I put the squirter back in. After taking it for a spin around the block I noticed it would stumble going around corners. The problem: floats set too low. I readjusted them AGAIN. Then I noticed the idle had changed. I turned the idle mixture screws back in until they just began to snug. Then turned them 2 turns out. The results: an almost perfect running truck. I need to hook the vacum gauge back up and set the idle mixture screws then do the whole timing/idle adjustment. My truck smells rich again though but not as bad. I just turned the floats 1 turn out from where they were when it stumbled around the corner. The garage lighting really sucks and I can only pull the front of the truck into it. I'll have to adjust the floats again after work when there is more light out. I think I may have set them wrong the last time. When I open the sight plug I should see a small amount of fuel spill out correct? If I don't see any or alot spills out then I would adjust the float level using the screw driver and wrench. I would adjust it until the fuel level was right at the bottom of the sight plug threads. Then I would manually open the throttle to lower the fuel level and make sure it would rise back up until just a tiny bit of fuel spills out. Is there something I'm missing or not doing in the proper order? I must be doing something wrong cause the level wasn't correct. Someone PLEASE help before I sell it and buy an import. I wish there was a compentant shop around here to tune it.

 

sounds like your doing it correctly, give it another try..wish I was closer to you so I could help..think your on the right track...

 

The fuel should just "wet" the area below the sight plug, not run out at all. The secondary side should be even with the sight plug, not coming out at all. It takes some time for the sec side to go down since there is no acc pump and the throttles do not open when you snap the throttle. It is always passing a slight amount of fuel while running so take a spin around the block to even out the fuel level. You don't need to "rod" it, just drive it. It also takes some time for the level to "catch up" to your adjustments, so take your time in between changes.

Is the rich smell at idle?? and is it the acidy, eye burning tailpipe smell or a raw fuel smell??

 

It seems alittle rich at idle but the acidy eye burning type. If I leave it running in the drive thru line my eyes begin to burn and it almost becomes difficult to breath. I can smell a hint of raw gas though. When I drive it at a steady speed it runs great. As I begin to increase speed like when I try to pass someone I have to leave the back window closed or I will have a real strong raw gas smell when I back of the gas.


I've been looking on ebay for a replacement carb. I may go back to Edelbrock since I know how to tune those pretty good. Either that or maybe switch to a 600 - 650 double pumper. I'm thinking my 750 vacum secondary may be too much carb for this motor.

 

Double pumpers are not really made for a street machine unless you have a real light weight machine like a pony car. The nice thing about vacuum secondaries is they only open as much as your engine needs, whereas a double pumper mechanically opens the secondaries and over carburates most of the time except on race motors, where they belong.