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truck idles, and drives perfect... but I smell my oil and it smells like gasoline... SO I believe I am missing on a cylander... IS there any way to tell which one with out checking all the plugs and wires and so on?
Yup, a cylinder contribution test, to be fancy with the name,
Go to your distrubutor, start the truck, and start pulling wires off the dist. one at a time, if it runs rougher, replace it back on the cap, if it dosent change the way its running follow it down, that is most likely your problem cylinder. but be ready, you may get bit once or twice, depending on how good the wires are,
If you come up with nothing, then take a spray bottle and start spraying your wires, boots and all that, to see if maby you have bad wires, and its not a skip/miss, but maby a rough running situation.
If still nothing, try some new spark plugs and see if it dosent clear it up, or pull the cap off the dist. and check it and your rotor for wear.
COOL good trick.. thanx... ya I hope I dont get shocked too much these are new plug wires.. I dont know if that helps or not.. I got shocked one time before... Scared the poop out of me..
the engine runs GREAT... thats what I dont understand... its just that the oil smells like gas... Im gonna fix that exhaust leak tonight... and maybe change the oil too... see if it smells again in a few days..
Could something malfunctioning with the EGR cause gas to go into the oil?
I only have 2 codes...
1 egr valve not working correctly...
2 right side running lean... ( I think its because of my exhaust leak... I know the headers are leaking on the right side)
pull out your dipstick, take a lighter and see if the oil on the stick will burn, if not, there is no gas in the oil, if i does than you have gas in the oil, it could smell like gas, just from blowby, and if the egr valve isnt working right, it could be quenching the cylinders, causing excess gass to mix with the oil, through the blowby gasses.
Watch your oil level. If the engine is "making oil" (the oil level goes up over time, instead of down) you have a problem that you must deal with quickly. A common cause of this is a failed fuel pressure regulator.
An exhaust leak can cause the oxygen sensor to read leaner than the engine is actually running. (The exhaust system exhibits both vacuum and pressure pulses. It can aspirate outside air during the vacuum pulses, which will create a source of false oxygen.) The computer will respond to this by enrichening the mixture. It will keep trying until reaching the adaptive limit, at which point it will flag a "lean code" of some sort. The adaptive limit at cruise is probably around an 11:1 air fuel ratio. The engine will seem to run "great", but it is actually way too rich. Your gas mileage will be bad, and the oil will tend to stink of the extra unburned hydrocarbons that a too-rich mixture generates. generate.
For a "shock proof" cylinder balance test, try the following:
Get some rubber vacuum line of the right diameter to fit snugly into the distributor cap tower and the plug wire connector. Cut the line into about 1.5 inch pieces. Plug the little chunks of hose into the distributor cap towers, and plug the spark plug wires onto the hose.
But wait, you say, isn't rubber an insulator? How can this work?
The answer is the rubber in car tires and vacuum hoses contains carbon black, which makes the rubber an acceptable conductor at the relatively high voltage/low currents typical of ignition systems. So the vacuum hose is acting as a chunk of wire. Cars are relatively safe in thundestorms not because "the rubber tires are insulated", but because the rubber tires are actually fairly good conductors. The body of the car acts as a Faraday cage to shunt the electrical current around the shell of the car and through the tires to ground.
Now get a chunk of insulated copper wire. Strip the insulation on one end, and attach the wire to a good ground. Strip the other end, and use it to momentarily short each of the little chunks of vacuum hose to ground, thus killing one cylinder at a time. Wear leather or neoprene gloves, and handle the shorting wire only by the insulation. You should not get shocked with this setup.
You may need to turn the throttle body stop screw in by a turn or two to stop the engine from stalling out when you kill a cylinder. Keep track of the amount you turn the screw, and put it back where you found it when done.
An exhaust leak can cause the oxygen sensor to read leaner than the engine is actually running. (The exhaust system exhibits both vacuum and pressure pulses. It can aspirate outside air during the vacuum pulses, which will create a source of false oxygen.) The computer will respond to this by enrichening the mixture. It will keep trying until reaching the adaptive limit, at which point it will flag a "lean code" of some sort. The adaptive limit at cruise is probably around an 11:1 air fuel ratio. The engine will seem to run "great", but it is actually way too rich. Your gas mileage will be bad, and the oil will tend to stink of the extra unburned hydrocarbons that a too-rich mixture generates. generate.
THIS IS ALL HAPPENING! Im getting the leak fixed tomarrow.
WIsh I knew about the "SHOCK PROOF TEST" BEFORE! I tested my plugs... I got shocked soo soo many times and I was wearing 2 pairs of dishwashing gloves and a pair of cheap leather gloves.. I dont know how but I still got shocked repetativley
well.. I found out that the hose that connects my EGR is blown and that really I dont have an exhaust leak.. But I guess that explains why my oil smells like gas.. and Im not making oil... so I think im ok. I get the part tomarrow so I will fix it tomarrow night and let you guys know.