Brakes feel wrong
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Normal, IL
Brakes feel wrong
A little vague, so here's what's up. My brakes aren't working 100%. The pedal is constantly soft, and it has a new master and booster. When I go to stop, the pedal sinks about 3 1/2" before anything starts working, and then it only feels as though the rears are stopping. In the rain, the rears lock, yet the truck refuses to slow at all. The PO had the truck 6 yrs., and never changed pads, yet they look brand new. Where should I go next, Calipers? Prop. Valve? Any and all help is appreciated.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Normal, IL
Brakes have been bled. Rolled the truck backward(engine off), and, it did the same thing, but i noticed that once to the 'threshold', it took less than 1/4 " to go from working brakes to no brakes at all. I believe that I will remain parked, because panic stops are definately NOT fun, and where I live, you seem to have to do a lot of those.
On a related note, when the truck dies, and I slow to a stop using the brakes, everything below the Master Cylinder gets a bath of brake fluid, but I never have to refill the Master cylinder.
On a related note, when the truck dies, and I slow to a stop using the brakes, everything below the Master Cylinder gets a bath of brake fluid, but I never have to refill the Master cylinder.
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Alaska
" everything below the Master Cylinder gets a bath of brake fluid, but I never have to refill the Master cylinder."
Can you clarify this?, if you have a loss of brake fluid but never have to refill the master cylinder, Where does the bath come from?
Did you replace the master cylinder or did the PO tell you he had?
Can you clarify this?, if you have a loss of brake fluid but never have to refill the master cylinder, Where does the bath come from?
Did you replace the master cylinder or did the PO tell you he had?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Southwestern Pa.
New truck to you?
What year and model?
The brake fluid bath (from the mastercylinder) is a sure sign of air in the system. I would start by pulling the front calipers and inspecting the pins and all sliding surfaces. You don't want any knicks burrs, corrosion, or ungreased pieces.Double check the pins and their bushings, clean and lube as needed. Put the calipers back on without the pads and make sure they slide in and out freely. Then reinstall with pads.
Did you bench bleed the mastercylinder? If not do so.
Do you have 4 wheel abs or RABS? They can make bleeding more difficult.
Bleed all 4 again in order with a break in between wheels. Test for air in the system by pumping the brake pedal 20 times and holding firm pressure while a helper removes the mastercyliner cover. Slide your foot off the brake pedal and let it spring back quickly. If you get another guiser bleed again. Be carefull where the guiser goes.
Does it die a lot?
What year and model?
The brake fluid bath (from the mastercylinder) is a sure sign of air in the system. I would start by pulling the front calipers and inspecting the pins and all sliding surfaces. You don't want any knicks burrs, corrosion, or ungreased pieces.Double check the pins and their bushings, clean and lube as needed. Put the calipers back on without the pads and make sure they slide in and out freely. Then reinstall with pads.
Did you bench bleed the mastercylinder? If not do so.
Do you have 4 wheel abs or RABS? They can make bleeding more difficult.
Bleed all 4 again in order with a break in between wheels. Test for air in the system by pumping the brake pedal 20 times and holding firm pressure while a helper removes the mastercyliner cover. Slide your foot off the brake pedal and let it spring back quickly. If you get another guiser bleed again. Be carefull where the guiser goes.
On a related note, when the truck dies,
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Elder User
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From: Normal, IL
The bath comes from the master cylinder. The master cyl. was replaced, as I have the reciept.
Lately, the truck has been dying a lot.
I'm definately going to recheck everything, because brakes are the most important thing, in my opinion.
Lately, the truck has been dying a lot.
I'm definately going to recheck everything, because brakes are the most important thing, in my opinion.
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Southwestern Pa.
Originally Posted by There Goes The Neighborhood
The bath comes from the master cylinder. The master cyl. was replaced, as I have the reciept.
Lately, the truck has been dying a lot.
I'm definately going to recheck everything, because brakes are the most important thing, in my opinion.
Lately, the truck has been dying a lot.
I'm definately going to recheck everything, because brakes are the most important thing, in my opinion.
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Elder User
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From: Normal, IL
Just for fun, lol, I'm going to bleed the brakes again. I'm just hoping that the bleeders aren't stuck again.
On a side note, what type of pads do you recommend for the front? I was thinking PFC Carbon Metallic. Any other opinions?
On a side note, what type of pads do you recommend for the front? I was thinking PFC Carbon Metallic. Any other opinions?
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Has it ever had hard brakes since installing the new master? Did you bleed the master when you installed it? My experience has been that your precise behavior is often due to air in the master, and it should be bench-bled and/or line bled after installation. If you didn't, detach the brake lines from the master (with towels covering everything), stick your thumb hard over the opening, have someone depress the pedal a bit, and ease off the thumb until it squirts. Press the thumb back, reset the pedal, and reattach the line.
If you don't like the thumb bit, go buy a couple of short sections of brake line, bend them so they double back into the reservoir, install them, and have someone pump hard until you can't see air coming out.
Some people get lucky and install unbled masters that work. I'm not one of them, and brakes are too important to hope for luck (just like you said.) If you've already done all this, sorry for the annoyance.
If you don't like the thumb bit, go buy a couple of short sections of brake line, bend them so they double back into the reservoir, install them, and have someone pump hard until you can't see air coming out.
Some people get lucky and install unbled masters that work. I'm not one of them, and brakes are too important to hope for luck (just like you said.) If you've already done all this, sorry for the annoyance.
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Incidentally, the bath also suggests either a burp from a big air pocket in or near the master, or your master is faulty and just makes a lousy seal. It might be worth a returnable $100 to try another master.
This and a buck will buy you a cup of coffee, except at Star$s.
This and a buck will buy you a cup of coffee, except at Star$s.